The best way to discover Vancouver Island is by embarking on a road trip. Whether you have a couple of weeks to explore the entire island or prefer a shorter itinerary, you can follow one of four primary routes. These routes include traveling from Victoria to Ucluelet and Tofino, from Nanaimo to Campbell River and continuing to Port Hardy, or the Pacific Marine Circle Route, which loops around the southern end of the island. This scenic route takes you from Victoria to Sooke, Port Renfrew, Lake Cowichan, Duncan, and back to Victoria. You can also choose to drive this loop in a counterclockwise direction.
In this post, I will share my ultimate Vancouver Island road trip, which involved driving the Pacific Marine Circle Route clockwise. After reaching Duncan, I opted to head north towards Nanaimo instead of returning to Victoria. This route allows for convenient ferry, seaplane, or flight options from Nanaimo back to Vancouver.
Driving the Pacific Marine Circle Route on Vancouver Island
The Pacific Marine Circle Route spans 289 km (179 miles) around southern Vancouver Island. Without any stops, the drive takes approximately 4.5 hours. While the journey is relatively straightforward, it can be winding with some elevation changes. Given all the sights to see and experiences to enjoy, I recommend breaking your adventure into a multi-day trip.
Day One of Your Vancouver Island Road Trip
Vancouver Island is an ideal destination for road trips. Your journey should start with a stunning ferry ride from Vancouver or the United States, a seaplane flight, or a short flight from Vancouver. For the purposes of this guide, we’ll begin our itinerary in Victoria. Upon arrival, either pick up your rental car or, if you drove onto the ferry, hit the road as soon as you reach Swartz Bay.
Victoria, the capital city of British Columbia, is the largest city on Vancouver Island, home to about 100,000 residents (and 400,000 in the Greater Victoria area). Make sure to allocate a couple of days to explore this historic city.
Explore the Butchart Gardens
On your way from the ferry terminal to the city, make your first stop at the beautiful Butchart Gardens. Established over a century ago, these expansive gardens span more than 5 hectares and were ingeniously transformed from a former limestone quarry. Enjoy the sunken garden, Japanese Gardens, Rose Gardens, carousel rides, and indulge in gelato in the Italian gardens, or have lunch and afternoon tea.
Plan for at least a two-hour visit to fully explore the Butchart Gardens. They are open year-round and admission prices start at $38.00 per adult.
While near the gardens, consider visiting the Victoria Butterfly Garden or the highly recommended Church and State Wines vineyard.
Where to Stay in Victoria, British Columbia
During my three-night stay in Victoria, I resided at the Strathcona Hotel on Douglas Street. This hotel is conveniently located just one block from the Fairmont Empress Hotel, two blocks from the waterfront, and a short six blocks from Chinatown. The Strathcona Hotel features newly renovated rooms, excellent dining options, and a central location with easy walking access to nearby attractions.
The hotel itself is a popular destination, featuring the Sticky Wicket Pub, a rooftop bar, and a beach volleyball court during summer months. Additionally, there’s Big Bad John’s Hill Billy bar and a games room. My accommodation was a King Suite overlooking Douglas Street, complete with a cozy couch, a desk, and amenities like a mini fridge, coffee station, microwave, and a spacious bathroom with a shower. Every room is equipped with a television, and the Wi-Fi access was excellent.
Dinner at the Sticky Wicket
After a long day of travel and exploring Vancouver Island, it’s time to check in to your hotel. Regardless of your choice to stay at the Strathcona Hotel or elsewhere, I highly recommend visiting their main restaurant, the Sticky Wicket. This classic pub offers a variety of local craft beer and traditional pub food, making it a perfect spot for a quick meal before heading to bed to rest up for your upcoming road trip.
Day 2 in Victoria: Rise and Grind
Start your day at Rise and Grind 1294 Cafe and Eatery, which brews fresh coffee and serves delectable breakfast sandwiches. This funky cafe has a diverse menu that caters to all tastes, whether you prefer dining in or taking your meal to go. Be sure to try the Originator breakfast sandwich, featuring bacon, egg, cheddar cheese, sriracha mayo, and green onion on a freshly baked brioche bun. Yum!
Start the Day with a Grey Line Sightseeing Victoria Tour
One of the best ways to familiarize yourself with a new city is by taking a city tour. A double-decker hop-on-hop-off tour is ideal, as it provides a comprehensive overview of the area and highlights key attractions in just 90 minutes. City tours also help you pinpoint which places pique your interest, allowing you to revisit them later for deeper exploration.
Grey Line Sightseeing Victoria departs from in front of the Fairmont Empress Hotel at 721 Government Street daily, starting every hour on the half-hour from 9:30 AM to 5:30 PM. The tour season runs from March until December each year. Tickets are priced from $55.00 per adult and are valid for 24 hours, making it convenient to use the bus for sightseeing.
Find the Perfect Souvenir
After your tour, head to Government Street, between Wharf and Fort Streets, for some fantastic shopping opportunities. This stretch is filled with souvenir shops, including Northwest Origins, which not only offers typical mementos but also features stunning original art pieces by local Indigenous artists and creations from BC First Nations.
Local artisan Nuu-Chah-Nulth carver Art W. Charlie II frequently works in the store and enjoys discussing his artwork and other pieces on display. You can learn more about them HERE.
Enjoy Afternoon Tea at the Fairmont Empress Hotel
Afternoon tea at the Fairmont Empress Hotel is renowned as one of the most glamorous experiences in Canada. If you plan to indulge in this treat during your Victoria visit, be sure to book your reservation well in advance. The Fairmont Empress has been serving afternoon tea for over 114 years, and although it is a bit pricey, it is a lovely experience that feels luxurious.
Your tea selection includes 12 different types, some of which were favorites of Queen Elizabeth and Princess Diana. You can enjoy a glass of champagne while your tea steeps, followed by a delicious tower of treats. Make sure not to have lunch beforehand, as the feast offered will likely be more than enough, and you might even find yourself taking leftovers home.
Your afternoon tea tower will begin with freshly baked Empress raisin scones, served with clotted cream and strawberry-vanilla jam. The middle tier includes savory delights like cold-smoked sockeye salmon on a blini with crème fraîche, coronation chicken sandwiches, classic egg salad sandwiches, and more. The top tier features delectable desserts and sweets such as Empress honey and lavender shortbread, strawberry rose macarons, chocolate moelleux cups, and cherry cheese tarts.
Prices for afternoon tea at the Fairmont Empress Hotel start at $89 per person.
Check Out the Views from the Top of the Malahat Skywalk
After enjoying your afternoon tea, a pleasant walk will help you digest your meal. Take a quick 30-minute drive to the Malahat Skywalk. Opened in July 2021, the Malahat Skywalk features a 600-meter tree walk leading to a spiral tower that stands 32 meters high, offering magnificent views of the Saanich Inlet. Along the way, you’ll discover information about the area’s flora and fauna. For the adventurous traveler, there’s an adventure net to walk across with a 32-meter drop below, or you can slide down a large 20-meter spiral slide.
Enjoy a leisurely stroll, savor the scent of Arbutus trees, and breathe in the fresh air as you reconnect with nature.
Visit a Smaller Niagara Falls
If you’re in the mood for more nature, consider stopping by Goldstream Provincial Park, just about 10 minutes from the Malahat Skywalk. This park features various hiking trails, picnic areas, ancient trees that are over 600 years old, a river, and a couple of stunning waterfalls to explore. Covering 477 hectares, you could easily spend hours here.
If you’re looking for a quick hike, I recommend the trail that leads to their version of Niagara Falls. The hike is fairly flat with a few rocky parts but is manageable for most. These narrow falls stand at 47.5 meters tall, creating a mesmerizing atmosphere that feels like you’ve stepped into a rainforest. Be sure to take plenty of photos but be cautious and keep a safe distance from the water’s edge.
Dine in the Cook Street Village
As part of your Grey Line Sightseeing Tour of Victoria, you will pass through the charming Cook Street Village. This neighborhood boasts numerous local restaurants, cafés, and shops. A top recommendation for dining is Pizzeria Prima Strada, known for its delicious wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas and homemade gelato.
Day 3 in Victoria: Whale Watching
The Salish Sea is a body of water between Vancouver Island, mainland British Columbia, and the state of Washington. It is home to a diverse range of marine life, including the Pacific salmon and various marine mammals, such as otters, stellar sea lions, and humpback whales that migrate here during the summer. One of the most iconic residents of the Salish Sea is the Orca, or Killer Whale, which can be either resident (fishing species) or transient (mammal-eating) with varying populations.
With a 95% success rate, whale watching tours in the Salish Sea are incredibly rewarding. In the rare event that you don’t see any whales, most operators offer complimentary tours until you do.
Multiple whale watching tours are available from Victoria, and I opted for Eagle Wing Tours. Their catamaran offers a smoother ride than conventional boats, with ample seating available both inside and outside, along with two onboard bathrooms and a knowledgeable crew of four guides, plus the captain.
Each tour offers unique experiences, and witnessing orcas or any whale in their natural habitat is a truly magical experience that should not be missed.
Grab Lunch at Fisherman’s Wharf
The Eagle Wing Whale Watching Tours depart daily from Fisherman’s Wharf, an area filled with floating restaurants, shops, and even houseboats. While in Fisherman’s Wharf, don’t miss the chance to sample the delicious fish and chips at Barb’s Fish and Chips. Choose from Cod, Halibut, or Wild Sockeye Salmon, all cooked fresh to order—a perfect meal after a few hours at sea.
Take a Ride on the Victoria Harbour Ferry
After your whale watching tour and lunch, hop aboard the Victoria Harbour Ferry, which offers scenic tours of the harbour and a convenient taxi service to over a dozen waterfront destinations. Use the ferry to travel from Fisherman’s Wharf to the Empress Hotel, Chinatown, West Bay, and the seaplane terminal.
For a fun outing with friends, consider their Pickle Pub Crawl, which takes you to four different waterfront pubs around the harbour, complete with a drink and appetizer at each stop.
Stroll Through Chinatown
Victoria’s Chinatown is the oldest in Canada and has been designated as a National Historic Site, making it a fascinating area to explore. Don’t forget to take a photo by the Gate of Harmonious Interest, stroll along Fan Tan Alley (the narrowest street in Canada), shop for unique souvenirs, learn about the history, and enjoy some delicious food.
Try BBQ Pork, Dim Sum, or noodles at traditional restaurants. Alternatively, check out trendy newcomers like Dumpling Drop, which offers a short but delightful menu. Highly recommended items include their pork belly and vegan dumplings with cucumber salad, paired with refreshing house-made Thai iced tea.
Day 4: Driving from Victoria to Port Renfrew
Today marks the start of your adventure along the Pacific Marine Coastal Route, departing from Victoria. Before embarking, ensure your vehicle has a full tank of gas, as fuel options become limited along the way. Stock up on snacks, drinks, and essentials for your stay in Port Renfrew, and keep in mind that cell phone service may be spotty between these two points. It’s advisable to download your maps for offline access and identify any must-see beaches or scenic spots ahead of time to avoid missing out, while ensuring you arrive at your accommodation on time. The direct drive takes about two hours, but with potential stops, expect to spend five hours or more exploring along the way.
Places to Stop Between Victoria and Port Renfrew
Approximately 40 minutes outside of Victoria, you’ll reach the charming town of Sooke, which is an excellent spot for a lunch break. A great recommendation is Sooke Brewing Company, where you can sample craft beers and enjoy a tasty meal from their food truck (just remember to have a designated driver if you indulge).
While in Sooke, consider visiting the unique Sooke Potholes Provincial Park, known for its stunning rock formations shaped by the last ice age. The park is a favorite summer swimming spot for locals and offers excellent hiking trails and fishing opportunities along the river.
Just a 20-minute drive from Sooke, make sure to stop at Shirley’s Delicious, a highly rated eatery along the Pacific Marine Circle Route. It’s renowned for its brunch, lunch, and delectable baked goods, so be sure to check the hours of operation before heading over.
Beaches and Hikes Between Victoria and Port Renfrew
Many beaches, waterfalls, and hiking trails await your discovery between Victoria and Port Renfrew. French Beach is the easiest to access, featuring stunning views and the sounds of crashing waves just a minute’s walk from the parking lot.
Just 7 minutes further down the road, you’ll find Sandcut Beach, which requires a 10-minute hike, mostly downhill, from the parking area. Be prepared for the return hike! This beautiful beach offers a small waterfall if you walk about 450 meters to your left. Be mindful of the tides, as the waterfall’s visibility fluctuates with recent weather.
The Sombrio Beach Waterfall, located in a small slot canyon, is another popular destination. Plan your visit around low tide, but prepare to get your feet wet and possibly muddy, as the trail involves climbing over rocks. Expect a 15-minute walk from the trailhead to the beach, then another 15 minutes heading east to the creek. Follow the creek until you reach the green moss slot canyon and the waterfall.
Other recommended stops include Mystic Beach, which also features a waterfall, and China Beach. When you arrive in Port Renfrew, a visit to Juan de Fuca Provincial Park is a must.
Where to Stay in Port Renfrew, British Columbia
One of the best accommodations in Port Renfrew is Soule Creek Lodge. Situated on a hillside overlooking Port San Juan, this enchanting property offers a tranquil retreat in nature. Choices include rooms in the main lodge, a private cabin, or one of seven stunning yurts. Be aware that there is a two-night minimum stay requirement. Soule Creek Lodge is ideal for relaxation and serves as a great base for exploring surrounding beaches, trails, and waterfalls.
Book your dinner reservation at Soule Creek Lodge in advance to ensure you enjoy their incredible dining experience. Breakfast is also exceptional, featuring a four-course dinner with pan-seared halibut and the best cheesecake I’ve ever tasted. Breakfast offerings include candied maple salmon eggs Benedict on Bannock accompanied by fresh fruits—absolutely delicious!
Day 6: Driving from Port Renfrew to Nanaimo
As you leave Port Renfrew, consider exploring some additional hikes, either today or during your second day at the lodge. Avatar Grove is home to monumental cedars, Douglas Fir trees, and even Canada’s gnarliest tree. You can hike either Upper or Lower Avatar, but be prepared for some uphill treks. As of May 2022, Avatar Grove was undergoing improvements and was closed; however, if the trails are reopened, exercise caution as the access road is gravel and bumpy.
Nearby Avatar Grove, you can find the famous Big Lonely Doug, which is recognized as the second largest Douglas Fir tree in the world. Additionally, make a brief stop along the side of the road to see the well-known Fairy Lake bonsai tree, where a tiny Douglas Fir grows atop an old log protruding from the tranquil water—a truly unique sight.
Stop for Lunch in Duncan
As you head towards Nanaimo, Duncan is an excellent spot for a lunch break. If you’re there on a Saturday, don’t miss checking out their farmer’s market. Duncan boasts the highest concentration of totem poles in any city worldwide, offering a great opportunity for exploration. You’ll even find a totem pole at the McDonald’s! Follow the Totem Pole trail for an enriching experience.
Located just outside Duncan, you’ll find Averill Creek Vineyard, an excellent choice for a winery visit. Open daily from 11 am to 5 pm, walk-ins are welcome, but for tours or special experiences, it’s advisable to reserve a spot in advance.
Fun fact: While in Duncan, you can also see the world’s largest hockey puck and hockey stick!
Explore the Murals of Chemainus
Between Duncan and Nanaimo lies the small town of Chemainus, famous for its more than 60 historical murals scattered throughout the town. These murals were created as part of a revitalization project aimed at boosting tourism.
Dine on a Floating Restaurant
If you arrive in Nanaimo in time for dinner, head to the Dinghy Dock Floating Pub located on Protection Island. You can catch the ferry from the Nanaimo waterfront at the intersection of Front Street and Promenade Drive. Make sure to have cash for your ticket—it’s $12 round trip for adults, $6 for kids, and $1 for dogs. Ferries depart Nanaimo to Dinghy Dock Pub at 10 minutes past every hour. Enjoy delicious food, live music, and local craft beer while you’re there.
Check into Your Nanaimo Hotel
A great place to stay in Nanaimo is the eco-friendly Coast Bastion Hotel, conveniently located just a block from the waterfront. Nearby, you’ll find Commercial Street, which is lined with cafes, shops, and art galleries, as well as the Old City Quarter, only a seven-minute walk away for more shopping and dining options. The harborside rooms offer picturesque views, and their restaurant, Minnoz, serves up the most delicious Nanaimo Bar Cheesecake.
Day 7: Explore Nanaimo
My primary reason for visiting Nanaimo was to try a Nanaimo bar directly in its hometown. It won’t be difficult to find one, as locals love these delicious treats so much that they even established a Nanaimo Bar Trail. Grab a map and see how many different Nanaimo bar variations you can sample, or venture slightly off the beaten path to try other unique renditions, including cheesecakes, macarons, gelato, cocktails, and even deep-fried Nanaimo bars.
But Nanaimo has much more to offer than just delicious dessert. It is also an excellent starting point for whale watching adventures. During my visit, I even witnessed a rare sighting of Orcas swimming in Nanaimo harbor. Vancouver Island Whale Watch provides fantastic whale watching tours, enabling you to see Orcas, Humpbacks, seals, and more. The area surrounding Nanaimo includes great hiking opportunities and stunning waterfalls, such as the trail to Ammonite Falls.
If you’re up for more boating adventures, don’t miss the chance to take a short ferry ride to Saysutshun Island. This stunning island in Nanaimo Harbour offers opportunities for hiking, camping, and spotting the unique raccoons that thrive on oysters while immortalizing the area’s Indigenous history in your visit.
Stay tuned for my upcoming guide covering the best things to see, do, and eat in Nanaimo!
Image credit: Destination Canada / Brian Caissie
Where Else to Visit on Vancouver Island
After spending a couple of days exploring Nanaimo, you can return to Vancouver by ferry, seaplane, or flight. Alternatively, extend your Vancouver Island journey to discover even more attractions. Nanaimo serves as an excellent hub for additional road trips around the island.
Other fantastic destinations on Vancouver Island include Ucluelet, Tofino, and Port Hardy, known for their breathtaking scenery, mountains, whale watching, culinary offerings, and more. If you have suggestions for visiting these areas, please share them in the comments below!
What is the Best Car for a Vancouver Island Road Trip?
During the busy summer of 2022, rental cars were in short supply; however, if you have the option to choose a vehicle for your Vancouver Island road trip, consider an SUV or all-terrain vehicle. While most driving occurs on paved roads, some areas require driving on gravel and logging roads, or navigating hilly terrain. For my Pacific Marine Circle Route trip, I drove a 2022 Mazda CX-30. It was one of the most comfortable cars I’ve driven, offering a smooth ride, SiriusXM Radio, GPS, a sunroof, and a comfortable steering wheel.
Vancouver Island has a reasonable amount of EV charging stations available, so finding an electric vehicle for your trip is a fantastic choice, allowing you to explore while minimizing your carbon footprint.
Are There Bears on Vancouver Island?
Yes, Vancouver Island is home to a population of approximately 7,000 bears. However, locals assure me that there’s no need to worry about encountering them. I was initially concerned about taking bear spray while hiking solo, but was informed that it wouldn’t be necessary—bears need to be quite close for the spray to be effective.
I trusted the locals and hiked alone throughout Vancouver Island without direct bear encounters. I did spot one while driving near Victoria and another near a river in Port Renfrew. Bears are active during spring, summer, and fall. Just take the right precautions, and you should be just fine.
For more information on staying bear-aware, check out this helpful guide.
Note: Always verify the opening times and days for your intended destinations, and make reservations whenever possible.
Like this post? Pin it for later!
Travel Yourself contains affiliate links and promotions from partners. If you make a purchase through these links, I will earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
