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Relaxing under the sun on the bow of a boat after feasting on freshly harvested oysters stands out as one of the most memorable moments of my life. My visit to Cinque Terre, Italy—a highly sought-after destination—exceeded my expectations, leaving me feeling as though I was in a world of fantasy. Just outside of Cinque Terre lies the lesser-known town of Portovenere, providing a picturesque way to explore not just five, but six stunning coastal towns.
A scenic forty-minute drive from Pisa leads you to Cinque Terre, a region made up of five unique towns: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso. These towns are interconnected by breathtaking hiking trails, ferry routes, and trains. Each town began as a medieval settlement, historically safeguarded by a castle against sea invasions and raids.
The Town of Portovenere
Situated along the Ligurian Coast in La Spezia province, Portovenere is celebrated for its stunning natural landscapes, characterized by dramatic coastal cliffs and an array of historical architecture featuring vibrant houses dotting the harbor.
Exploring Portovenere is a joy, with its delightful streets filled with shops, gelaterias, and inviting restaurants. As you venture uphill, the sights become increasingly awe-inspiring, showcasing spectacular views of the Ligurian coastline.
The town is home to historic churches and cemeteries, each offering breathtaking vantage points perfect for capturing remarkable photographs. Whether you’re exploring cultural treasures or simply soaking in the natural beauty, Portovenere promises a rich and fulfilling experience for every visitor.
Accommodation in Portovenere
Grand Hotel Portovenere
Perched right on Marina di Portovenere, the Grand Hotel Portovenere is a beautiful historical property built from an ancient structure known as Dimora Storica, which dates back to the 1600s. Over the years, it has served various functions, including a monastery, a hospital, and the headquarters for the Municipality of Porto Venere.
In 2014, the building underwent a transformation into the Grand Hotel Portovenere, a luxurious boutique hotel thoughtfully restored to maintain its historical features. The rooms feature charming brick arches and vaulted ceilings, with large windows that overlook the marina. Every morning, I eagerly opened the window to breathe in the salty air coupled with the fragrant aroma of freshly baked focaccia.
Dining Options in Portovenere
Palmaria Restaurant
Offering stunning sea views, Palmaria Restaurant within the Grand Hotel Portovenere boasts an elegant yet contemporary ambiance, reminiscent of a ship’s interior. It also features outdoor seating on a lovely terrace.
The menu is a delightful mix of innovative dishes inspired by the coastal surroundings, predominantly focusing on seafood and fresh interpretations of classic Italian cuisine. The executive chef prioritizes using the finest local ingredients to ensure a burst of flavor in every bite.
During my stay, I savored dishes like pumpkin gnocchi with butter and sage, rock octopus, and a creative take on tiramisu. For my last meal, I indulged in truffle carbonara, perfectly combining my two favorite ingredients into one heavenly plate.
Trattoria Tre Torri
Just a two-minute walk from the Grand Hotel Portovenere, Trattoria Tre Torri is another outstanding dining choice. Known for the region’s famed pesto and focaccia, the rich basil flavors and premium olive oil set it apart. I couldn’t resist ordering the pesto pasta, which surpassed all of my expectations.
Excursions and Activities
In addition to the delightful hiking trails throughout Cinque Terre (which I’ll cover later), I recommend taking advantage of the unique local experiences available near Portovenere. Hotel arrangements can include options like a pristine wilderness hike on nearby Palmaria Island, a boat trip paired with a fresh oyster feast, or a vineyard visit in Riomaggiore for wine tasting.
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Palmaria Island Hike
Palmaria Island is just a short ferry ride from Portovenere. The island is uninhabited, featuring beautiful plant life, wildlife, and pristine nature. The hiking trail around the island is steep at times, but the views are absolutely worth it. It’s a tranquil escape that most tourists are unaware of, making it an excellent opportunity to experience the region away from the crowds.
Learn More About the Palmaria Island Hike Tour Here
Oyster Boat Excursion
Later that afternoon, with the sun shining brightly on the turquoise waters, we boarded a boat from Palmaria Island and anchored in the center of the marina, enjoying breathtaking views of Portovenere and the surrounding cliffs. A feast of freshly harvested oysters accompanied by pesto pasta and white wine awaited us. Afterward, I relaxed on the bow of the boat, soaking up the sun while taking in the stunning coastal scenery.
Learn More About the Oyster Boat Excursion Here
La Possa Winery Tour and Tasting
After embarking on a hike through Cinque Terre, we visited La Possa Winery in Riomaggiore, starting with a tour of the vineyards. The views were absolutely breathtaking; the vineyard is skillfully terraced on the cliffside and overlooks the deep blue ocean. The three-hectare estate produces 25,000 bottles of wine each year, with 70% sold in Italy and the remainder internationally.
Owner Heydi Bonanini is passionate about creating Sustainable Wine (Slow Wine), focusing on sustainable practices and natural growing methods with minimal use of pesticides and irrigation. He also emphasizes community support by educating children about agriculture and backing a charity for local families in need.
We were fortunate enough to sample several exquisite wines, all made from grapes indigenous to the Liguria region, known for their light, crisp characteristics and the subtle salinity derived from the ocean’s proximity.
Discover More About La Possa Winery Tour and Tasting Here
Learn About Other Unique Experiences and Excursions Offered at Grand Hotel Portovenere Here
Hiking Through Cinque Terre
Via dell’Amore
Via dell’Amore, or The Trail of Love, is one of the most popular hiking routes in Cinque Terre, connecting the villages of Riomaggiore and Manarola. This is the easiest trail, featuring a flat path that stretches just one kilometer. Unfortunately, when I visited in April, Via dell’Amore was closed due to a recent landslide. However, it is scheduled to reopen on July 19th, 2024.
Vernazza to Corniglia
We began our hike in Vernazza, welcomed by vibrant boats and charming residences lining the vivid turquoise marina. Before setting off, we visited the picturesque Santa Margherita d’Antiochia church, built in 1318, which not only added to the region’s historical charm but also featured magnificent views of the surrounding landscapes, including the Castello Doria in the distance.
As we ventured up what felt like an endless staircase, spectacular views greeted us at every turn. Frequent breaks allowed us to catch our breath and soak in the breathtaking scenery. Finally, upon reaching the peak, we were rewarded with stunning vistas that surpassed what we had already witnessed.
After tackling the initial ascent, some stretches of the trail became flatter, yet steep inclines remained. We made a refreshing pit stop at a vendor along the trail, where we enjoyed some delightful oranges while taking in the glorious cliffside views of the ocean.
After approximately two hours of hiking, we finally arrived in Corniglia, the least frequented of the five towns, but definitely one not to miss. We indulged in fresh focaccia, a local specialty, and spent time wandering through its quaint streets, admiring the charming shops, winding cobblestone pathways, and inviting cafes.
Useful tip: This hike is challenging and may not be suitable for beginners due to its considerable uphill sections.
Riomaggiore Pit Stop
After visiting Corniglia, we took a quick train ride to Riomaggiore (though it’s walkable, it could take an additional two and a half hours). If you’re not keen on hiking to explore all five towns, ferries and trains are an efficient way to save time and maximize your adventure.
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Getting Around Cinque Terre
As a general rule, renting a car is not advisable. From Porto Venere, reaching Cinque Terre is straightforward by ferry, with departures conveniently located right outside the Grand Hotel Portovenere. However, the ferry service may be suspended in poor weather conditions, which can be more frequent during spring. I experienced this firsthand during my visit in early April.
On the first day, when the ferry did not operate, we opted to travel by train, departing from La Spezia. The hotel can assist with arranging a transfer service to the station. Depending on train schedules, it takes about 20 minutes to reach the furthest town, Monterosso, where you can embark on hiking trails through all five villages. The ferry ride takes about an hour and is a beautiful way to take in the scenery of the five towns from the water.
Discover More About Ferry Services Here
The Ideal Time to Visit Cinque Terre
Given Cinque Terre’s popularity, I recommend visiting during the off-peak season (November through February) or during the shoulder seasons in March, April, or October. My visit in April was perfect because the weather was cool enough for hiking, and the crowds were surprisingly light.
The peak months, May, June, and September are particularly crowded, while July and August are the hottest. Traveling in the off-season can lead to lower costs, but many hotels and restaurants may close for lack of customers. The weather is also considerably cooler during that time.
If You Decide to Go:
Portovenere serves as an excellent base for exploring Cinque Terre and the surrounding region. The town has a quaint charm, and the crowds are more manageable than if you were to stay directly in one of the five towns. Regardless of whether you visit during peak or off-peak season, there is a wealth of experiences waiting to be enjoyed.
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Isabella Miller is a travel journalist and editor at Go World Travel Magazine. A passionate explorer, she has a profound love for the rich tapestry of human experiences. From backcountry camping to relaxing in saltwater pools in the Italian Alps, Isabella thrives on the balance between urban life and nature, celebration and serenity, adventure and relaxation. The ideal journey, she believes, is one where these elements harmoniously coexist. The world is wonderfully nuanced and full of untold stories, and she takes great joy in sharing her adventures with others.
