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Explore a Hidden Gem of Impressionism: Visit the Maison Caillebotte
If you’re seeking an art-focused getaway from Paris, complete with lush gardens, romantic parklands, and striking architecture, look no further than the Maison Caillebotte, located just 20 km from the city. This estate offers a unique glimpse into a lesser-known chapter of Impressionism.
A Convenient Day Trip from Paris
Accessible via the RER D line train, this beautifully restored 19th-century estate features expansive grounds and offers an intimate look at the private life of Gustave Caillebotte, a significant yet often underappreciated artist in the Impressionist movement.
The Impressionists
As I stood before the Italian-style manor, the sun momentarily peeking out from behind silvery clouds, I realized how little I knew about this artist.
When considering Impressionism, I often think of iconic names like Monet, Degas, and Renoir before recalling the likes of Pissarro, one of my personal favorites, Sisley, and Berthe Morisot.
However, after delving deeper into Impressionism during my recent trip to France, Gustave Caillebotte has found a place in my thoughts—an artist whose popularity is on the rise in both France and North America.
Tip: Be sure to check out the upcoming exhibition Caillebotte Painting Men at the Musée d’Orsay in autumn 2024.
Was Gustave Caillebotte an Impressionist?
An intriguing question indeed. (So grateful I asked it!)
Gustave Caillebotte painted alongside the Impressionists, socialized with them, and collected their works. Whether he truly was an Impressionist remains open to interpretation.
Born in 1848 and trained at the esteemed École Nationale des Beaux-Arts, Caillebotte combined elements of Impressionism with a command of perspective and traditional techniques.
A Changing Art World
To understand this better, it’s essential to note that the latter half of the 19th century was dominated by grand themes and realistic painting styles.
However, the Impressionist artists began to gain momentum, aiming to capture fleeting moments and light rather than eternal subjects, focusing instead on everyday scenes.
This clash of art movements was significant, with financial stakes and careers hanging in the balance. What makes Gustave Caillebotte fascinating is how his work reflects this transitional period while introducing a distinct originality.
Who Was Gustave Caillebotte?
Reports indicate that Caillebotte was a generous and sensitive individual, who passed away far too young at age 45.
One distinguishing feature of Caillebotte compared to many other Impressionists is his wealth.
A passionate supporter of the arts, he generously used his resources to assist friends like Claude Monet, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, and Camille Pissarro, organizing exhibitions and passionately collecting their works.
When I say he collected their artworks, I mean he amassed a substantial collection.
A Visionary Art Collector
Caillebotte’s collection, which he bequeathed to the French State (though they initially rejected a significant portion), forms the cornerstone of the Impressionist collection at the Musée d’Orsay today.
Many renowned works—including Renoir’s Dance at the Moulin de la Galette and Monet’s La Gare Saint-Lazare—originated from Caillebotte’s collection.
Explore more about the Top 5 Impressionist Museums in Paris.
Why Visit His Estate?
Much like visiting Monet’s home and garden in Giverny (although it’s a distinctly different experience), the Caillebotte Estate provides art enthusiasts an opportunity to step behind the canvas and explore the artist’s world.
Established in 1830, this property, which borders the serene Yerres River, served as the Caillebotte family’s summer residence from 1860 until 1879.
Featuring clean lines, elegant columns, and Neoclassical elements, the estate exemplifies Restoration-style architecture.
However, for many, the estate’s 27-acre grounds—with their follies, water features, and gardens—are an even greater attraction.
These grounds provided fertile inspiration for Caillebotte, where he created over 80 artworks during his time there.
Planning a trip to Paris? Check out these helpful Paris tips.
Activities at the Maison Caillebotte
Explore the House
The first room that captures your attention is the dining room, a striking space with rich wood accents and delicate murals opening off the entrance hall.
This layout is somewhat unconventional for a home, thanks to a food-loving previous owner, Pierre Frédéric Borrel, who made the dining room a centerpiece.
Pierre Frédéric Borrel
A celebrated chef and owner of the acclaimed restaurant Au Rocher de Cancale in Paris, Borrel purchased the estate in 1824 and transformed it into an opulent getaway.
Beyond the Napoleon-style living room, the billiard room offers richly decorated red interiors, where a reproduction of an unfinished painting by Caillebotte coincidentally echoes the scene.
The Pride of the House
The crown jewel of this home, however, is the Empire-style bedroom. Adorned with polished wood and emerald fabrics, it hosts the only original furnishings from the home.
This was largely by chance.
After the property underwent an extensive 20-year restoration, the bedroom furniture remarkably became available at auction.
The Maison Caillebotte was able to acquire and subsequently restore it with help from some of the finest artisans in the country, just in time for the estate’s reopening in 2017.
Visit the Studio
On the top floor of the estate is the Atelier, Caillebotte’s former studio, which regularly hosts changing exhibitions.
During my visit for the 150th anniversary of Impressionism, I was fortunate enough to view several smaller paintings by Caillebotte, alongside a piece by Monet.
What You Might Not Find at the Caillebotte House and Gardens
If you’re hoping to see major original works by Caillebotte, you may come away disappointed.
Many of his most celebrated paintings, like Paris Street, Rainy Day (currently housed at the Chicago Institute of Art) and Floor Scrapers (located at the Musée d’Orsay), are either part of institutional collections or held privately.
There’s intense competition for his artworks.
Explore the Park and Gardens
Free to enter, the English-style park is perfect for leisurely strolls, featuring leafy trees, vibrant flowerbeds, statues, and decorative follies.
A separate kitchen garden is maintained by volunteers, and if you have the opportunity to explore the 7-meter deep ice house, it offers a uniquely cool experience.
Caillebotte and Monet
As I wandered the grounds, passing a few locals walking their dogs, I tried to imagine Caillebotte sharing ideas with Monet, hands clasped behind their backs, discussing the merits of various tree species (the estate boasts over 30 species).
Both men shared a deep love for gardening, and it’s noted that the footbridge on the Caillebotte Estate inspired Monet’s own bridge at Giverny.
Enjoy Boating on the River
Another of Caillebotte’s passions was boating. He designed, rowed, and sailed various boats, and many of his most striking paintings revolve around water themes.
Frequently, as seen in notable works like Rower in a Top Hat (recently acquired by the Musée d’Orsay for an impressive 43 million Euros), Caillebotte employs bold perspectives, placing the viewer face-to-face with the rower.
It feels as if you are stepping into the action rather than merely observing it.
(Allow me to add that he was particularly adept at capturing the dynamic nature of men’s forearms, a recurring element in his work.)
The Yerres River adjacent to the estate served as an ideal canvas for water activities, and during peak summer season, you can embrace Caillebotte’s world by renting a boat and enjoying the river yourself.
Relax at Cafe Gustave
If all this activity leaves you feeling exhausted, the Cafe Gustave is an inviting retreat.
Situated in a charming Swiss-style chalet opposite the house, the restaurant features a patio with a stunning view of the grounds.
It’s the perfect spot to unwind with a cup of tea and enjoy one of their homemade pastries. (I indulged in three, and I didn’t even go boating!)
Consider Making it a Weekend
We spent a night at Demeures de Varennes, located approximately 9 km from the Caillebotte House.
As a 4-star Best Western Signature Property, it provides a country estate ambiance.
What enhances the experience is the presence of reproductions of Caillebotte’s artwork throughout the property.
The dining experience is truly delightful.
Their restaurant, La Table de Varennes, has a rustic charm and specializes in local, organic, and sustainable produce.
We stayed in a newly built section, but the estate itself has a history dating back to 1740. A spa featuring a hammam is currently under construction and is set to open in the fall of 2024.
Is Visiting the Caillebotte House and Gardens Worth It?
Absolutely! Once you’re done exploring the major Impressionist collections at prominent spots like the Musée d’Orsay and Musée de l’Orangerie, escaping to the greater Paris region offers a refreshing immersion into an Impressionist-inspired world.
How to Visit the Maison Caillebotte
Visitor Information:
- Address: 10 Rue de Concy, 91330 Yerres, France
- Opening Hours: Mid-March to November, open from 2 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. (closed Mondays); from November to March, open on weekends and bank holidays.
- Ticket Prices: €12 for adults; discounts available for children, students, and seniors.
- The Park: Open daily with free entry.
- For More Information: Visit the official website.
Getting There:
- By Train: Take the RER D line from Paris to Yerres (approximately 25 minutes). A 10-minute walk or taxi ride will take you to the estate.
- By Car: The drive takes around 30 minutes from Bercy, but plan for possible traffic through Paris.
