Tayrona National Park in Colombia is, without a doubt, my favorite place in the world. Although I have previously claimed that Pigeon Point Beach is my favorite beach and Iceland is my favorite country, Tayrona merges all my favorite elements into one stunning locale. If someone were to ask me to envision a paradise, my mind instantly goes to that stretch of pristine white sand, complete with the view from a hammock suspended in an open-air hut overlooking the ocean.
It truly is perfect.
But be warned: this adventure is not for the faint of heart.
Experiencing the beauty of Tayrona requires enduring several hours of bus travel, a lengthy and humid trek through the rainforest, crossing a crocodile-filled river, and braving the elements with limited electricity and no cell phone service. You’ll also have to contend with inclement weather, pesky bugs, and a plethora of insects.
Traveling From Cartagena
The nearest major city and international airport to Tayrona is the vibrant and culturally rich Cartagena.
Cartagena is an attraction in its own right, so consider spending a week exploring its many treasures before or after your adventure in the park. Alongside Jessie, On a Journey, and a few friends, I explored the charming streets of Old Town, climbed the fortress walls, enjoyed sangria at quaint cafes, savored street food by the ocean, shopped from local vendors, and spent our nights at El Viajero Hostel.
I recommend departing Cartagena in the morning and staying overnight in Santa Marta, as it’s best to start the hike into Tayrona early the next day.
From the hostel, make your way to one of the many transportation companies that provide rides from Cartagena to Santa Marta. Choosing a private shuttle bus may not cost much more than public transport, but it can save you significant time and discomfort (public buses tend to be bumpy, cramped, and lack air conditioning).
MarSol is a popular option that has an office right near Old Town, offering friendly service, several stops along the way, and reasonable pricing. You can purchase tickets directly at El Viajero Hostel for about 42,000 pesos (around $12). The journey will take approximately three to four hours, with bathroom and snack breaks included, and the shuttle will drop you off right at your accommodation in Santa Marta.
Alternatively, consider booking a complete transportation package from your starting point to simplify your travel experience.
Exploring Santa Marta
Though Santa Marta is primarily an industrial city rather than a tourist hub, it has its own charm that merits exploration. Before you settle down for dinner near your hotel, take some time to wander the local markets and enjoy the main beaches. Ensure that you get to bed early, as your adventure awaits the next day.
Masaya Hostel offers luxury-like accommodations with two swimming pools, a cinema, a rooftop terrace and bar, hammocks, rope beds, free WiFi, and nightly activities like dance classes—starting at just $12 per night.
Arriving early at the park’s entrance is essential. Plan to leave your hotel around 7:00-8:00 a.m. Head towards the Mercado (most accommodations are within walking distance, but you can check with your hotel for directions) and look for buses marked “Tayrona.”
You’ll know you’re in the right place when you hear the bus drivers enthusiastically shouting “Tayrona! Tayrona! Tayrona!”
The bus fare is about 6,000 pesos (approximately $3) and the ride takes about an hour. It will drop you off at the park gates, where you’ll need to pay the entrance fee of 38,000 pesos (about $19)—slightly less for Colombian nationals—which contributes to conservation and park maintenance. I highly recommend taking the optional $1 shuttle ride that takes you deeper into the park starting from the Calabazo route, as the initial segment of the hike can be lengthy and mundane.
Keep in mind that park entry is only permitted during operating hours: from 5 a.m. to 5 p.m. via the popular Zaino, Palangana, and Bahia Concha routes, and from 5 a.m. to 3 p.m. via the Calabazo route.
The Hike
Once inside, you’ll embark on a hike that can last anywhere from 1.5 to 3 hours, depending on your pace and fitness level. You’ll traverse rocky trails that feature climbs and descents, navigate cliff edges with breathtaking ocean views, pass through narrow rock crevices, walk along secluded beaches, and meander under tangled mangroves and palm trees while admiring vibrant turquoise lagoons. The humid environment presents one of the most strenuous yet rewarding hiking experiences in the area.
Essentially, the scenery transforms every ten minutes, and you can never predict what you’ll encounter next.
You can also choose to rent a horse for 32,000 pesos ($16), which will shorten your journey to the campground to about 30 minutes. This option can be particularly handy if you’re carrying heavy water or gear. Alternatively, for a slightly lower fee, you can have a rider carry your luggage and meet you at the campground entrance (which is what we opted for, and our bags were waiting at the check-in).
At certain points, you’ll need to climb over large boulders and squeeze through narrow rock crevices. Wooden stairs lead you along cliffs high above the crashing waves, interspersed with treacherous steps on muddy hills in the tropical jungle, as sweat pours down your back, concluding with a mile-long trek across an exposed beach under the hot Colombian sun.
Discovering Tayrona National Park
Tayrona National Park is located roughly 20 miles from Santa Marta, Colombia, and is renowned as one of the most beautiful and popular parks in the country. Covering vast areas of tropical jungle, the park features several pristine, deserted beaches with inviting, warm turquoise waters, along with unique biodiversity and tranquil oceanside accommodations. This secluded paradise is a remarkable sanctuary.
One of the most wonderful swimming spots is La Piscina, a small bay beach just a 15-20 minute walk from El Cabo. It is ideal for snorkeling, swimming, and engaging in other beach activities, featuring rocky outcrops and shallow areas to explore marine life.
Cabo San Juan Beach
Cabo San Juan Beach, in my opinion, ranks as one of the most breathtaking beaches worldwide, making the hike there entirely worthwhile.
However, facilities are quite basic. Electricity runs only a few hours each day, and the bathrooms are rustic and outdoorsy, albeit somewhat maintained during the day. It’s wise to wear sandals and keep a flashlight on hand at night. The showers are also outdoor and unisex, which can feel awkward as they are separated only by low walls; I preferred to keep my swimsuit on. Expect long lines in the mornings.
Hammocks can be rented in a hut in the forest for 13,000 pesos (around $4.50). Just keep in mind that this area is more prone to mosquitoes. Alternatively, tent rentals are available for 30,000 pesos (approximately $10) and include two sleeping bags.
The Hammock Hut
Upon arrival, check into the campground where you have the option to rent a hammock in the elevated hut for 25,000 pesos ($12.50) or one on the ground for 20,000 pesos ($10).
In the elevated hut, it feels like stepping into a dream or a movie. Perched atop a tall stone outcrop, reached only via a strip of pristine white sand, this open-air hut is surrounded on three sides by vast ocean views. Backed by the lush jungles of Tayrona, the hut hosts about a dozen swinging hammocks, topped by a private suite with a bed.
This is undoubtedly the most spectacular sight you’ll encounter while traveling in Colombia. I don’t mean to be clichéd, but I found myself simply sitting there, lost in the breathtaking view for much of the day.
I recommend spending at least two full days in the park to truly soak in its beauty—therefore, it’s advisable to book your hammock for two nights.
A beachside restaurant serves various meals, including pasta, meat, rice, and vegetables. Prices range from 10,000 to 22,000 pesos ($5-11). Beer is available for 4,000 pesos ($2), and smoothies cost 5,000 pesos ($2.50).
The campground features two beaches on either side of the hut, along with several other nearby beaches to explore. Amenities include flushing toilets, hot showers, public power outlets, lockers for rent, and a snack bar. Local vendors frequently visit the park, offering handmade jewelry, food, and other items.
While there are plenty of active pursuits available such as hiking, snorkeling, and pickup games, this is also the kind of place where you’ll want to relax and unwind as much as possible.
The beach at Cabo San Juan is an absolute paradise.
What To Bring
- Water. Bring as much as you can carry, as it’s expensive to buy within the park.
- Food and snacks (options include crackers, peanut butter, tuna, granola bars, bread, bananas, etc.).
- Your passport, needed for entry to the park.
- Layers for cooler evenings.
- Swimsuit.
- A small lock for the lockers.
- Toilet paper.
- A flashlight.
- Heavy-duty bug spray/mosquito repellent.
- Sunglasses.
- Sunscreen.
- Good hiking shoes.
- A waterproof camera.
- A book or some cards/dice for entertainment.
- A towel.
- Sandals.
What Not To Bring
- No alcohol or drugs (your bags will be checked, and any alcohol will be taken away).
- No plastic bags.
- Avoid bringing excess clothing.
- Do not take valuables you don’t want to store in a locker.
Exiting the Park
There’s no need to hike back through the jungle if you’re not up for it. Instead, you can catch a boat directly from Cabo San Juan beach to Taganga for 45,000 pesos ($22).
Taganga is located just around the mountain from Santa Marta, yet offers a completely different charm. The village is devoid of high-rise buildings, has few paved roads, and lacks the hustle and bustle of urban life.
This quaint beach village features friendly locals and a bustling expat community of surfers and backpackers. Taganga is picturesque, tranquil, and charming, providing the perfect setting to either take a bus back to Cartagena the same day or spend a night in the village, enjoying fresh seafood and stunning sunsets.
You can also opt to ride a horse out of the park for 32,000 pesos ($16). This horse ride can be quite exhilarating, as horses may occasionally trot and run through narrow paths and steep forested areas.
I chose to ride partway on horseback before hiking back, then repeated the journey to Cartagena.
Additional Photos
The camping area
Bus ride back to Santa Marta
View from the hammock hut
Entrance to the park
The last stretch of the hike
Boat taking passengers out of the park
Beach path
“Guacy” at the El Viajero
All packed up & ready to go
The hottest part of the hike
Near the bus stop in Santa Marta
Iguana in the hammock hut
Public bus
Dinner in Cabo San Juan
Public bus
Hanging out at Masaya
Fording a crocodile river
Cool rock formations along the hike
Bus zone in Santa Marta
