Located in the Emilia-Romagna region, Parma, renowned as the City of Gastronomy, is famously associated with culinary delights such as Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma. However, this sophisticated city has much more to offer…
Parma = Parmigiano * Prosciutto * Pilotti & Parmigiani
♦ Part One: A Taste of Parma (Behind the Scenes!) ♦
Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma, and Aceto Balsamico
Thanks to a personal recommendation from my dear friend and travel companion Emanuela of Beautiful Liguria, I had a truly remarkable day meeting small-scale producers, indulging in delicious tastings, and learning about their passion and dedication!
Our small group was introduced to family-owned producers in the surrounding villages. These hardworking individuals are not only committed to the stringent production standards set by their respective consortiums but also take immense pride in the quality of their products—only the finest will do!
We learned, tasted, and gained a newfound appreciation for their dedication to excellence. Here’s a glimpse of what we experienced!
A Taste of Parma!
♦ Parmigiano Reggiano, the “King of Cheeses”
Producing Parmigiano Reggiano requires unwavering commitment! Only cheese made in the provinces of Parma and Reggio Emilia (along with a few restricted areas) can legally bear the name Parmigiano. The traditional process has remained unchanged for over 800 years, using only three ingredients: raw cow’s milk, rennet, and salt—along with ample time!
We were warmly welcomed by Paolo and Paola, a dedicated husband-and-wife team! Marika walked us through each stage of the aging and production process.
Sampling various aged cheeses, some up to 60 months old, was a delight! What a privilege to visit, learn, and taste—and to bring some delicious cheese home!
♦ Prosciutto di Parma
Salumificio Conti is another family-run producer—the owner is a woman, no less! Prosciutto di Parma is all-natural and protected by a consortium established in 1963. The definition of “100% Natural” includes only Italian pork legs, sea salt, air, and time (aging a minimum of 12 months and up to 3 years)! Absolutely NO nitrates or additives are permitted.
Recently celebrating over 50 years of creating high-quality Prosciutto di Parma, we toured their facility and learned about the meticulous curing and preservation processes, along with the numerous inspections each batch undergoes before it reaches your plate!
♦ Visiting an Acetaia…
Marco and Maria are passionate about traditional aceto balsamico and continue a thousand-year-old tradition at their farm near Reggio Emilia.
Their elegant acetaia reflects the personal attention, high-quality ingredients, and years of dedication necessary to create the finest balsamico! While Modena may be famous for its balsamic vinegar, they take great pride in producing high-quality balsamico at their beautiful acetaia, using grapes from their own vineyard and employing a slow cooking and aging process that can last up to 80 years.
♦ Part Two – Parma’s Art! A Feast for the Eyes! ♦
Inspired by webinars from art historian Rocky Ruggiero, I looked forward to exploring the major museums and masterpieces he showcased—particularly those of Correggio.
My itinerary included the Cathedral and Baptistery in Piazza Duomo, the Camera di San Paolo, the Church of San Giovanni Evangelista, and the monumental complex of Pilotta Palace with its Farnese Theatre, Library, and National Gallery.
All these treasures are easily accessible in Parma’s historical center. However, I was glad I allowed ample time for my visit; it can easily become overwhelming to absorb so much exquisite art and beauty!
♦ Correggio!
The splendid works of Antonio Allegri, known as Correggio (1489-1534), particularly his breathtaking frescoes, showcase his signature perspective technique that creates the illusion of figures—often playful putti—ascending into the air…all are truly magnificent to behold!
The Camera di San Paolo is a room in the ancient convent of San Paolo, adorned with frescoes by Correggio for Abbess Giovanna Piacenza.
The visit encompasses a room with frescoes by Araldi, including the Last Supper. Correggio received his first commission to decorate the dining hall of the enlightened—yet perhaps somewhat libertine—Benedictine Abbess Giovanna Piacenza. Known as the Camera di San Paolo, the ceiling is intricately designed with a bamboo-like pergola and playful putti peeking through illusionistic openings. Above the fireplace rests a large fresco of the virgin goddess Diana, just below a Latin inscription that presumably advises male visitors: ‘Do not stick your poker in the fire’!
The Duomo: This 12th-century cathedral is truly spectacular—a stunning example of Romanesque architecture, crowned by the magnificent Correggio dome that leaves visitors breathless.
Church of San Giovanni Evangelista: This church is worth a visit for its dome, which also features frescoes by Correggio. Next door, you can explore the Monastery of San Giovanni, complete with cloisters and a 16th-century monumental library.
♦ The Battistero
The unique multi-tiered baptistery is an icon of Italian Romanesque architecture, where visitors can admire the stunning sculptures of Antelami.
♦ Pilotta Palace
Describing the Pilotta Palace as monumental is no exaggeration! It would be impossible to summarize its history or the extensive collections housed within—experiencing it for yourself is essential!
The Pilotta complex includes the National Gallery, which began under the Duke of Parma and was later enriched by Maria Louise of Austria. The gallery features works from the 13th to the 19th centuries, including pieces by Correggio, Parmigianino, Bronzino, Tintoretto, Carracci, Botticelli, Canaletto, Canova, and even a drawing attributed to Leonardo da Vinci. The gallery’s extensive collection is thoughtfully curated, and, since the space was not crowded, I fully appreciated this treasure trove of art acquired over many decades and dynasties. It’s a must-visit for any art enthusiast!
Farnese Theatre: Built between 1618 and 1619, this theatre is indescribably magnificent. Photos do not do it justice; constructed swiftly to honor a visiting Medici (who ultimately could not attend), its architectural brilliance is impressive!
Though it fell into disrepair in the 1700s and was nearly destroyed during Allied bombing in WWII, the theatre was fully restored and rebuilt in 1950 using the same materials. How wonderful it is that we can admire its beauty and grandeur today!
The Palatine Library: Established in 1761 by Philip Bourbon, Duke of Parma, this library is estimated to contain over one million books!
Read more about Parma here: ParmaWelcome.it/en
Parma can easily be reached by train from Bologna or Florence (with a transfer in Bologna)!
If Parma is on your travel list for your next trip to Italy, let me know and we can plan your visit!
Special thanks to: Emanuela Raggio (Beautiful Liguria) and her suppliers; Patrizia, Rossella, Marika; and Dr. Rocky Ruggiero (Art Historian).
Excellent Resource: ParmaWelcome.it/en
