Palermo, a charming city located in Sicily along the Mediterranean coast, has been a long-time fascination for me. This November, my aunt generously gifted me a fantastic weekend in Palermo. We arrived on the 12th and stayed until the 16th. To my surprise, I stepped off the plane into a warm 22-degree weather — in November! It felt like an unexpected taste of summer. The local markets, overflowing with vibrancy and flavors, perfectly reflect the lively spirit of the city. Every day in Palermo unfolded new experiences, from the architectural wonders like the Palatine Chapel to the tranquil beauty of Mondello Beach. The friendliness of the locals, the depth of its history, and the mouthwatering Sicilian cuisine turned Palermo from merely a travel destination into a place that captured my heart. My advice: if you seek a stylish southern city with delicious food and summer vibes, but without the scorching heat, Palermo is the ideal winter getaway. Let me guide you through how to make the most of three days in Palermo (from the four nights we spent there). If you’re looking for even more inspiration, check out my guide on the best things to do in Palermo for a comprehensive list of must-see sights and experiences.
Getting to Palermo
Arriving in Palermo is quite straightforward, with options for various travel preferences. As Sicily is an island, you won’t find trains arriving on the island; flying is your best option. Flights land at Falcone Borsellino Airport, the main gateway to this historic city. The bus from the airport to the city center is a convenient and economical choice, costing only €6 for a comfortable ride. Believe me, it’s true! For those wanting a more exclusive experience, taxis and private transfers are also readily available.
Day 1 Palermo Itinerary
Morning:
Piazza San Domenico: Our day began in the vibrant Piazza San Domenico, immersing ourselves in the bustling city life. Our first stop was the Vucciria Market, a sensory delight filled with lively sounds, vibrant sights, and the tantalizing aromas of Sicilian street food.
Quattro Canti: As we wandered through the city, we arrived at the historic Quattro Canti. More than just an intersection, this iconic crossroads is a display of Palermo’s baroque elegance. The four corners are adorned with fountains and statues representing the four seasons, the four Spanish kings of Sicily, and the patron saints of Palermo—an impressive tribute to the city’s rich history.
Pasticceria Costa: A short walk led us to Pasticceria Costa, a delightful spot recommended by our B&B host. She was spot on: the cannoli were outstanding, and the cassatine, with their rich sweet filling, were equally divine. It was the perfect treat to energize us for our morning explorations.
Piazza Pretoria: Next, we made our way to Piazza Pretoria to admire the Fontana Pretoria, also known as the “Fountain of Shame,” which earned its name from the nude sculptures that once scandalized the locals. Although the controversy has faded, the name remains. The intricate sculptures and expansive design of the fountain are truly breathtaking.
Mercato di Ballarò: Our next stop was Mercato di Ballarò. If you want an authentic local experience, this market is the place to be. It’s alive with vendors selling everything from fresh produce to mouthwatering street food. The market culture here is substantial—not just shopping, but an essential part of Palermo’s social scene.
Chiesa di San Giovanni degli Eremiti: Before heading to the Palazzo dei Normanni, we took a calming detour to the Cloister of San Giovanni degli Eremiti. The serene setting, with its lush garden and distinctive red domes, provided a tranquil escape from the city’s hustle and bustle. This site reflects Palermo’s Arab-Norman architectural style and is a must-visit for those seeking a peaceful retreat.
Royal Palace of Palermo: The highlight of our morning was our visit to the Palazzo dei Normanni, also known as the Royal Palace of Palermo. The Palatine Chapel left us speechless with its stunning Byzantine mosaics adorned in gold that narrate ancient biblical tales. This blend of Norman, Arab, and Byzantine architectural styles is nothing short of spectacular. Our tickets also included access to the Royal Gardens, which, unfortunately, didn’t live up to the hype, and the Royal Apartments were off-limits due to parliamentary sessions. Hopefully, you’ll have better luck!
Cathedral of Palermo: We concluded our morning with a visit to the Cathedral of Palermo. This grand structure boasts a mix of architectural styles, housing royal tombs and beautiful artwork. While impressive, it struggles to compete with the mesmerizing Palatine Chapel. Tickets can also be purchased to climb to the top for stunning views of the city.
Afternoon:
Lunch at Mercato del Capo: After a captivating morning soaked in history, we headed to Mercato del Capo for lunch. This market represents the pulse of local life, where one can witness the spirit of Palermo through the interactions of its inhabitants, enjoying laughter and shared meals. We relished some of the market’s finest: succulent octopus, a classic Sicilian arancina bursting with flavors, and a variety of fresh vegetables. Be ready for enthusiastic vendors inviting you to try their offerings – it’s all part of the Mercato del Capo experience! If you prefer a local guide, consider booking a private tour for a tasting of delicious Sicilian street food!
Lunch at Le Angeliche: If you prefer not to eat at the market and want a restaurant experience, you must dine at Le Angeliche. During my second trip to Palermo with friends, we all fell in love with it. Tucked away from Mercato del Capo, it offers a stunning outdoor space and a charming indoor setting. The sophisticated Sicilian cuisine uses top-quality ingredients. The menu is seasonal, but do try the Panelle, marinated anchovies with citrus sweet and sour sauce, carpaccio of yellow melon with fresh arugula, Sicilian prosciutto, and burrata cream, and the gazpacho with tomatoes and peaches—exquisite! They also offer daily specials. A top-notch experience at around €55 per person.
Teatro Massimo: We proceeded to Teatro Massimo, the magnificent opera house of Palermo and one of the largest in Europe. Known for its world-class performances, this majestic building embodies Palermo’s artistic and cultural richness. The neoclassical architecture of the exterior commands attention, while the interiors exemplify opulence and history. Even if you’re not catching a show, the theater offers guided tours that let visitors marvel at its ornate halls and learn about its storied past. Standing before Teatro Massimo, you really feel the cultural heartbeat of the city.
Evening:
As the sun began to set over Palermo, we set out once more. Normally, we tend to plan and book in advance, but this time we let spontaneity lead the way. It was a refreshing change, especially since it wasn’t peak tourist season, allowing us to find open tables at Palermo’s welcoming restaurants.
Dinner was a delightful experience at Antico Forno San Francesco. Famous for its street food, we unexpectedly discovered a charming restaurant nestled in a picturesque baroque piazza—quintessential Sicilian ambiance. The atmosphere was magical, with warm streetlight glows creating a soft glow over the square and the buzz of diners enhancing the lively setting. We prepared ourselves for one of the most memorable meals of our trip.
We savored perfectly prepared pasta dishes—spaghetti with a creamy pistachio pesto paired with prawns. Accompanied by fried calamari, two glasses of crisp white wine, and concluding with a delightful cassata, our meal was a culinary escapade. The best part? This entire feast cost us just €70 for two, exemplifying Palermo’s wonderful combination of quality and affordability.
After dinner, as we wandered the enchanting streets, we stumbled upon Bottega Colletti. Although we didn’t pause there, it appeared to be the perfect spot for an after-dinner drink or aperitivo. It’s certainly on my list for our next visit. If you’ve been to Bottega Colletti, I’d love to hear your thoughts—traveler experiences are always valuable!
For my second visit to Palermo, my friends and I discovered the fantastic cocktail bar called Terra, located in Piazza Magione. Do try the Specialotto—it’s now my favorite cocktail. It’s a gin and tonic infused with basil, prepared by Barbara, the incredible bartender we met. Don’t be afraid to experiment; the bartenders here are superb! Cocktails range from €8 to €10.
Day 2 Palermo Itinerary
Morning:
Day trip to Mondello: Feeling adventurous on Day 2, we decided to visit Mondello, a stunning beach just a short distance from Palermo. Off-season travel truly has its advantages; we took the bus—something I might hesitate to do in the summer, but it was perfect in November, offering promptness and comfort.
Getting to Mondello: We boarded the 101 bus at Via Roma, switching to the 806 towards Mondello at Piazza Croce. The ride, just €1.40 for a ticket, took about an hour and was incredibly smooth thanks to the light bus traffic.
Brioche with gelato: Upon arrival in Mondello, we were welcomed by a lively local atmosphere—people relaxing on the beach, some even braving the water. Our first indulgence was at Sirenetta Bar and Bistrot, where we enjoyed a brioche filled with pistachio gelato. Word of caution—one brioche is more than enough for two! Sitting outside, relishing our treat in the gentle sea breeze under the sun was bliss.
Boat trip: If you visit during the summer or spring, apart from enjoying the beach, a boat ride with opportunities for swimming and snorkeling is a fantastic idea! A sunset sail is also a wonderful way to soak up those Sicilian vibes.
Afternoon:
Lunch: For lunch, we chose Al Gabbiano, drawn by its picturesque location. Our meal was simple—a sautéed vongole and a salmon tartare. While the food was decent, it was the stunning view that made the experience unforgettable. On the return journey to Palermo, our bus was slightly delayed; however, we noticed taxis at the stop offering rides back to the city for €5 per person—an excellent option for those preferring some comfort.
La Cala Port and Street Art: Once back in Palermo, we took a leisurely stroll to the La Cala port and the lungomare area. The coastal beauty was complemented by captivating murals of Borsellino and Falcone by Rosk and Loste, honoring judges Paolo Borsellino and Giovanni Falcone, who fearlessly fought against the Mafia but tragically lost their lives. Their legacy is a poignant reminder of Palermo’s tumultuous past and enduring resilience. We continued walking through Via Vittorio Emanuele until we returned to our accommodation.
Evening:
Dinner at Il Funnaco Pizza Lab: Dinner was a delightful affair at Il Funnaco Pizza Lab, a renowned pizzeria close to our lodging and one of the top 50 in Italy. The flavors were exceptional—accompanied by a Messina beer and starting with the Pan Burrata, a heavenly combination of Apulian burratina nestled in crispy puff pastry, topped with a rich bio tomato sauce and fresh basil. For main courses, my aunt picked the “A Fera O Luni” pizza featuring pistachio pesto, fiordilatte, mortadella, burratina, and pistachio granules, while I enjoyed the “Porta di Nolana.” Both were delicious, but my aunt’s selection truly stood out. They even offer gluten-free pizza.
*Dinner at Osteria Mangia e Bevi: If you’re not in the mood for pizza, visit the nearby Osteria Mangia e Bevi, where we had dinner on our first night in Palermo. This shabby-chic osteria is a favored spot for trying pasta with “arriminati” broccoli or the traditional pasta with sardines! Be sure to order the cannolo scomposto for dessert.
*Dinner with a cooking class: If you want to learn the art of Sicilian cooking, consider skipping the restaurant to book a Sicilian cooking class followed by dinner. It’s hands-on, fun, educational, and a great way to meet locals.
Drinks at Il Ferramenta: To end the night, we headed to Il Ferramenta, just a short walk from the pizzeria. Trendy and cool, it was the ideal place to unwind and reflect on our day’s adventures.
Day 3 Palermo Itinerary
Morning:
Day trip to Monreale: Our final day in Palermo took us to the enchanting town of Monreale, known for its breathtaking mosaics and historical sites. Undoubtedly, the crown jewel of Monreale is the Duomo di Monreale. This cathedral is a magnificent example of Norman architecture, famed for its stunning golden mosaics illustrating biblical tales. The expansive interior and the intricate cloister with its beautifully carved columns showcase the heights of artistic achievement during Norman rule in Sicily. Note that the Duomo has a break in visiting hours from 12:45 PM to 2:30 PM, so plan accordingly for your visit.
Lunch at Monreale: You’ll find delightful dining options for lunch in Monreale, like La Macina or Pikki Pakki for pizzas.
Afternoon:
Politeama: After returning to Palermo, we ventured into the Politeama district, a vibrant area filled with charming restaurants and trendy boutiques – another great option for accommodation in the city. We strolled through Via Ruggiero Settimone, exploring shops and soaking in the lively atmosphere.
Street food: A stop at Ke Palle on Via Maqueda was next on our itinerary. This street food paradise is a must-visit! I tried the Norma arancina, incredibly delicious and my favorite by far. The potato crocchè was also a highlight—crispy on the outside and soft and flavorful on the inside.
Pick-me-up coffee: Later, we decided to recharge with coffee at Donnafranca. Their espresso paired with a traditional cannolo was the perfect energy boost for our afternoon escapades.
Evening:
Dinner at Ferramenta: For dinner, we returned to Ferramenta, a place we had discovered the previous night. Dining outdoors on Piazza Giovanni Meli was an experience in itself, surrounded by the vibrant nightlife of Palermo. We began with sfincionello, a delightful local specialty reminiscent of a fluffy pizza, and indulged in heavenly caci fritti in pastella. Our main courses consisted of pasta dishes—one highlighting scrumptious shrimps and the other showcasing rich guanciale. Each meal was a culinary revelation, making Ferramenta a must-visit in Palermo.
We wrapped up our day early, with a flight scheduled for 8:30 AM the following morning. We took the same bus route back to the airport, reflecting on our extraordinary journey through Palermo and its surroundings—a trip filled with unforgettable memories, flavors, and sights.
Palermo Travel Tips
Where to stay in Palermo
For first-time visitors like me, staying in the heart of Palermo offers not just convenience, but an authentic immersion into the city’s vibrant life. Each corner of the central area tells a unique story, and the easy access to major sites makes it effortless to explore. Accommodations in Palermo are generally cheaper compared to other Italian cities, and the quality of the rooms and B&Bs is superb. Here are my top suggestions for places to stay in Palermo:
Vucciria
We opted for a stay just a stone’s throw from Piazza San Domenico, nestled near the Vucciria Market. The location was ideal for us, as we were within walking distance of nearly everything we wished to see and experience in Palermo. The area boasts some of the city’s most charming restaurants, including Il Funnaco, Osteria Mangia e Bevi, and Ferramenta, each providing unique tastes of local cuisine. Keep in mind that the Vucciria area is vibrant with nighttime music—consider this if you prefer quieter surroundings. We personally enjoyed it! Suggestions for places to stay in Vucciria:
Amalfitani House: We stayed in this delightful, newly refurbished apartment. With charming decor, a comfortable bed, and a small balcony, it was just a short stroll from everything. Highly recommended!
Sant’Andrea Luxury Rooms: Situated in the same building as Amalfitana House, this luxury room offers modern amenities at a great price.
Moncada Suites & Apartments: Located on the other side of Vucciria, these accommodations offer modern and comfortable rooms.
Politeama
Another area that caught my eye was the Politeama district, home to the beautiful Teatro Massimo. This part of Palermo felt particularly elegant, with its lovely array of restaurants and chic atmosphere. If you seek a blend of sophistication and accessibility, Politeama is an excellent option. Suggestions for places to stay in Politeama:
Family Affair Palermo: A charming, family-run bed & breakfast with stylish rooms just a few meters from Piazza Politeama.
Palazzo Sovrana: Located directly across from Teatro Massimo, these luxury apartments offer lovely views of the opera house and surrounding mountains.
Grand Hotel Et Des Palmes: Book this accommodation for a luxurious 5-star hotel experience.
Quattro Canti
The Quattro Canti area holds a unique charm. This location feels like the crossroads of Palermo’s history and modern-day buzz. If you don’t mind the touristy atmosphere, it’s worth considering for its picturesque setting.
InCanto: Situated at the intersection of Quattro Canti, all major sites are within walking distance.
Best time to visit Palermo
Timing is essential when planning a trip to Palermo. While many travelers flock to Sicily during the summer months, it’s often overwhelmingly hot in Palermo from mid-June to August. The scorching temperatures can be intense for those unaccustomed to the Mediterranean heat. Nevertheless, summer remains an excellent time to explore Sicily’s stunning beaches and islands, so if you find yourself in Sicily during this period, a visit to Palermo is highly recommended. I returned to Palermo during the first weekend of June and had an amazing time, though it was quite hot (albeit surprisingly breezy).
In my experience, the best time to visit Palermo is from September to early June. During these months, the city enjoys milder temperatures, making it an ideal time to explore its rich history and culture comfortably. From October to February, expect average temperatures of around 15°C to 20°C (59°F to 68°F). Dining outdoors remains pleasant, and the city’s vibrant outdoor life continues.
Spring is another fantastic time to visit Palermo, with comfortable temperatures typically ranging from 15°C to 25°C (59°F to 77°F), as the city bursts with vibrant colors and activities. This season strikes a perfect balance, allowing for exploration without the overwhelming crowds found in peak tourist seasons.
Traveling during off-peak seasons (fall and early spring) provides not only more manageable weather but also fewer tourists. This results in more space to explore Palermo’s landmarks, easier reservations at popular restaurants, and an opportunity to experience the city more authentically.
How to get around Palermo
Exploring Palermo on foot allows the city to unfold beautifully, with central areas like Piazza San Domenico serving as ideal starting points. For longer journeys, public transport, including buses, is efficient, such as our trip to Mondello that cost around €1.40 per ticket.
