The Royal Barge Procession is a spectacular event worth witnessing. The usual activity on the Chao Phraya River pauses as ferries and longtail boats clear a path for the royal flotilla. Onlookers lining the riverbanks experience a serene silence, broken only by the rhythmic chants of the oarsmen as the barges move gracefully and in perfect synchrony. Though this ancient tradition has roots that stretch back centuries, it retains much of its original grandeur and vibrant color. Hundreds of oarsmen still don Ayutthaya-style uniforms for this ceremonial occasion.
History of the Royal Barge Procession
It is believed that the Royal Barge Procession first occurred in the 14th century during the Ayutthaya period of Thai history. The ceremony continued regularly until the Burmese invasion of Ayutthaya in 1767, which led to the destruction of hundreds of barges. After this event, General Taksin established the new capital in Thonburi and ordered the rebuilding of the royal barge fleet. Following Taksin’s death, General Chakri ascended to the throne, initiating the Chakri dynasty. King Rama I later relocated the capital to present-day Bangkok and established the Royal Kathin Ceremony with the newly rebuilt fleet of royal barges.
The Royal Barge Procession occurred on select occasions until the 1932 revolution, which marked the end of absolute monarchy in Thailand. The tradition was revived in 1957 and officially reinstated by King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX) for the Royal Kathin Ceremony in 1959.
Royal Kathin Ceremony
The Thod Kathin Robes Ceremony happens after the conclusion of Buddhist Lent (Awk Phansa). During this ceremony, the Thai monarch or their representative presents new robes to monks at Wat Arun in Bangkok, traveling aboard the royal barge carrying the offerings.
Dates of the Royal Barge Procession
This event is rare in contemporary times, but it still graces Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River during notable occasions:
- 2003: APEC meeting in Thailand
- 2006: Diamond Jubilee of King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX)
- 2007: 80th birthday of King Bhumibol Adulyadej
- 2012: Royal Kathin Ceremony honoring King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s 84th birthday (initially scheduled for 2011)
- 2019: In honor of Thailand’s new monarch, King Maha Vajiralongkorn (Rama X)
- 2024: To celebrate King Maha Vajiralongkorn’s 72nd birthday (see details for the 2024 event below)
The auspicious 12-year cycle in Thai culture
In traditional Thai culture, special birthdays and anniversaries are celebrated based on a 12-year zodiac cycle. Each cycle completion is significant, marking a return to one’s birth-year animal, making aged birthdays such as the 60th, 72nd, or 84th particularly auspicious.
Royal Barge Museum
The barges utilized in the procession are stored in a sheltered dock at the National Museum of Royal Barges. In the lead-up to the procession, they are relocated to the Royal Thai Navy dockyard for final preparations.
The largest vessel in the royal fleet is the Suphannahong Royal Barge, which carries the King and is manned by 50 oarsmen. This barge is easily identifiable by its striking golden figurehead resembling a mythical swan-like creature known as a hong. Hanging from its mouth is a tasselled, lotus-shaped crystal, which sways in the breeze, symbolizing prayers being lifted to the heavens, according to Thai folklore.
The National Museum of Royal Barges, located on the Thonburi side of the river, is open daily to the public. The closest passenger boat piers are Tha Thonburi Railway Station (pier number N11) and Tha Phra Pinklao (pier number N12). The nearest MRT metro station is Bang Khun Non, which is about a 30-minute walk away.
Royal Barge Procession Route
The procession typically begins at the royal pier, Tha Wasukri. From there, the barges are rowed along the Chao Phraya River, heading towards either Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn) or Ratchaworadit Pier near the Grand Palace.
The ceremony generally features 52 elaborately decorated barges and over 2,000 oarsmen. All participants are selected from the Royal Thai Navy and undergo months of training before the event. As the flotilla gracefully navigates the Chao Phraya River, the barges are organized into five columns, with the main royal vessels positioned in the center, flanked by escort barges.
Signalmen at the front of each barge raise and lower flags to direct the oarsmen, while an oarsman at the stern on either side acts as the rudder.
Attending the Royal Barge Procession or Rehearsals
Both the public and tourists are welcome to attend the rehearsals or the main event. If you wish to capture photographs or simply enjoy the atmosphere, the dress rehearsal is a great option. In contrast, the main event, attended by the King, has stricter photography regulations, and viewing areas can become quite crowded. Attendees are encouraged to follow any guidance or requests from stewards and security personnel. Due to heightened security, especially during the main ceremony, there may be bag checks, and you might be asked to present identification. Thai citizens must carry their ID cards for legal reasons.
Regardless of whether you attend a rehearsal or the main event, it is customary to dress respectfully, ensuring your knees and shoulders are covered. Thai attendees often wear yellow tops in honor of the King, who was born on a Monday, with yellow being his birth color. This royal standard is also represented in the King’s ceremonial banner.
Transport Disruption
On the day of the Royal Barge Procession, there are restrictions on the Chao Phraya River, with regular boat and ferry services temporarily suspended. Additionally, some road bridges over the river may also be closed. These restrictions may also apply on dates for the dress rehearsals, potentially affecting traffic throughout the city.
Viewing areas are typically available on both banks of the Chao Phraya River for the public. However, with limited capacity, these areas can fill up quickly. Previous events have included viewing areas such as:
- Under the Rama VIII Bridge (Thonburi side)
- Santichai Prakan Park
- Chaloem Phra Kiat Public Park
- Siriraj Hospital
- Thammasat University
- Nagaraphirom Park
2024 Royal Barge Procession
The next Royal Barge Procession is set for 27 October 2024. There will also be regular rehearsals leading up to the main event, scheduled for the afternoon from 3-6 PM.
Rehearsal dates for the 2024 Royal Barge Procession:
- August: 1, 8, 15, 22
- September: 3, 12, 19, 26
- October: 1, 10, 15*, 22* (*Full-dress rehearsals on 15 and 22)
