“Everywhere Holds a Touch of Myth and Magic: Six Fantastic Island Getaways in Europe”

Islas Cíes, Galicia, Spain

If you stand atop a hill on Monteagudo (“Sharp Mount”) island and look west, you might just envision the lost city of Atlantis beneath the rising Atlantic waves. Monteagudo is one of the three islands that make up the Islas Cíes archipelago, located about nine miles off the Galician coastline. This location was famously featured in Jules Verne’s 1871 novel, Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea, as the site where Captain Nemo found the treasure that funded his exploits.

Verne made a wise choice in this setting. The islands exude an aura of myth and magic, characterized by coastal caves, towering cliffs, secluded coves, and turbulent waters. Declared a nature reserve in 1980 and later designated as a maritime park, Islas Cíes prioritizes its natural inhabitants, which include charming flora such as the sea-pink “love plant” (herba de namorar) and a nearby underwater algae forest.

Despite their rugged wilderness reminiscent of Treasure Island (the other two islands, south of Monteagudo, are Isla del Faro and the uninhabited San Martiño), the main attraction of Islas Cíes is the proximity of its clear waters and soft sandy beaches to the mainland. A boat ride from Vigo takes less than an hour (costing about €23 per person) to reach Praia de Rodas, a stunning stretch of white sand that connects the two northern islands and rivals any Caribbean beach. Children will have a blast snorkeling near the shore or exploring the tidal pools in the main bay.

The best aspect of Islas Cíes is the cap on visitor numbers, which means no battling for space on the beach and no long lines at eateries. Although the islands cover only around 1.5 square miles, you can take one of the four walking trails and find yourself in splendid isolation—though you may encounter yellow-legged gulls, who fiercely protect their nests with the courage befitting Verne’s adventurous character.

The limited accommodations and dining options on the islands add to their charm. For a snack, try some raya frita (fried stingray) or salmonetes (red mullet) at Bar Seafín. Many visitors opt for day trips, returning to Vigo for classic Galician seafood at Casa Marco.

Stay: The only lodging available is the campsite on Isla del Faro, offering pitches starting at €22 for two people, or family tents for €95 a night.
Oliver Balch

Île Sainte-Marguerite, near Cannes, France

A mere 15-minute boat ride from Cannes, Île Sainte-Marguerite is an island rich in nature, perfect for swimming, picnics, and bird-watching, particularly cormorants. A few years back, we decided to forgo traditional birthday festivities for our son and took him and his friends here for an alternative celebration. As we enjoyed cake in a glade lined with umbrella pines and eucalyptus trees, none of the kids seemed tempted by their smartphones.

We typically choose the island’s southern side, where rocky inlets, pebbly beaches, and crystal-clear waters await. At both ends, you can find the remnants of a fours à boulets (cannonball oven), erected on the orders of a young Napoleon Bonaparte. These ovens feature a groove on top where cannonballs were placed to roll down through the furnace until they emerged red-hot and ready for use against enemy ships. This fascinating history silenced the children momentarily before they dashed off into the forest, climbing trees and playing games around the lagoon.

On previous visits, dining options included La Guérite (offering high-quality Greek-style seafood) and L’Escale (great for pizzas, salads, and fried fish). Additionally, by the jetty, there’s a kiosk named Le Leroños, serving delicious pan bagnat, sandwiches, and waffles.

Visitors can roam freely along the many trails that wind across the island, as there are no bicycles or cars allowed on Sainte-Marguerite. A pentagon-shaped fort built in the 1620s houses a quaint maritime museum and a youth hostel (details below).

During summer, the narrow strait between Sainte-Marguerite and the smaller Île Saint-Honorat becomes crowded with boats, so dense that you might think you could walk across their decks to the other island. Just 100 meters off the southern shore of Sainte-Marguerite lies a protected zone, housing an underwater eco-museum featuring six two-meter-high heads created by British sculptor and diver Jason deCaires Taylor. These sculptures serve as a habitat for marine life, and snorkellers can explore this unique underwater art.

Stay: The Centre International de Séjour, a hostel and activity center located within the Royal Fort, offers family rooms and dormitories in the former garrison. Facilities include a volleyball court, frisbee golf, and a climbing wall—far better amenities than those available during the 17th century when the Man in the Iron Mask was imprisoned there for 11 years. Rates start from €80 for full board for adults and children over nine, and €68 for half board, with a one-time family membership fee of €26.
Jon Bryant

Ustica, north of Sicily, Italy

Just a short ferry ride from Palermo, the volcanic island of Ustica feels like a world away from the bustling, vibrant Sicilian capital. Upon arriving in the picturesque bay of the main town, it becomes clear that life on this island is a stark contrast to city living.

Ustica is tranquil, clean, and sparsely inhabited. Many tourists visiting Sicily may not even be aware of its existence. The island covers only four square miles, with a quarter of it designated as a protected nature reserve, making it easy to explore on foot or by bike. You can cycle from one end to the other in about half an hour, or take a leisurely hour-long ride around the island. For those looking for a less active mode of transport, a bus service is also available.

The island, known as Osteodes to the Greeks before being renamed Ustica by the Romans—derived from the Latin word for burnt, due to its black rocks—has a rich history, having once been home to Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Barbary pirates, and even political prisoners during the fascist era. However, its stunning natural scenery is what attracts most visitors, with divers flocking to its numerous inlets and caves, eager to experience some of the cleanest waters in the Mediterranean.

In the 1980s, the waters around Ustica were designated as a protected marine reserve, becoming the first of its kind in Italy. Experienced divers can investigate shipwrecks, underwater caves, and volcanic structures, but casual swimmers will also find abundant wonders. Boat tours that navigate the coastline are quite popular.

The island also boasts a network of marked trails that lead inland, with breathtaking views from Monte Guardia dei Turchi, the highest accessible point. Scenic paths along the western and southern shores allow anyone with decent footwear and some time to navigate the coastline on foot.

By walking leisurely along paths that meander through terraced farms and cliffside scrub, you can fully appreciate the island’s beauty, often finding solitude on the trails. To enhance your experience, embark on an after-sunset hike, where you may find yourself beneath a breathtaking starry sky, with only the distant glimmer of the mainland as a reminder that you will eventually leave this paradise. Ignore the distractions and head back to the harbor for a glass of wine or a meal at Il Faraglione, which overlooks the water and is run by two brothers committed to modern Sicilian cuisine and fresh seafood.

Stay: Family-run Agriturismo Hibiscus, located a 10-minute walk from the main town and just a stone’s throw from the shore, offers double rooms starting from €140 B&B.
Colin O’Brien

Tilos, Dodecanese Islands, Greece

The sea appears in shades of rose and gold, with waves crashing on the wild northern shores of Tilos where I relax in a taverna, enjoying the gentle sunset breeze. To the west, on a headland above Plaka Beach, a wind turbine spins, providing the island’s winter energy alongside a small solar farm. Beyond that, the road snakes upwards, leading to a monastery boasting a natural spring.

Tilos spans 25 square miles in the southern Aegean and is a serene, welcoming, and down-to-earth destination. A hunting ban helps preserve local wildlife, including Eleonora’s falcons and Bonelli’s eagles that soar above, while monk seals find sanctuary along the island’s rugged, untouched coastline. On this island, you might even encounter road hazards, including cats, owls, and goats.

During a week-long visit in 2008, I strolled through a fragrant valley of thyme and sage to discover a stunning bay with bright watermelon-red sand, and I was enchanted. I stumbled across footpaths leading to beaches adorned with salmon and verdigris rocks and found myself stargazing from the abandoned village of Mikro Horio. Ultimately, I became part of this small island community in 2011, adding to its population of 500.

After a two to three-hour ferry ride from Rhodes or Kos, you arrive in Livadia, surrounded by lush green hills and jagged peaks. The pebbly beach is lined with modest hotels, family-run tavernas (for a twist on traditional dishes, try Almyriki or Gorgona), bars, and Zafiris’ outdoor gym. Families with strollers, children on scooters, and couples enjoying a leisurely stroll take advantage of the promenade.

The bus traverses an oleander-lined road through the tranquil heart of the island, leading to Harkadio Cave, which features a museum displaying the remains of Europe’s last elephants. In the distance, the quaint white houses of Megalo Horio come into view beneath the castle. From the new archaeological museum, we ascend to the ancient village, where one café-bar offers shade under trees while another overlooks the intriguing church with its arched roofs and pebble-mosaic courtyard.

Heading south towards Eristos, I strolled along its kilometers of sandy beach framed by wild, rocky cliffs. At the local kantina, I properly disposed of my beer can for recycling: Tilos adopted a zero-waste policy a few years ago. As twilight sets in, the atmosphere becomes eerily peaceful, despite the presence of many tents nestled under trees. Tilos has allowed wild camping on parts of this beach for years, attracting many repeat visitors each summer. Gatherings often involve watching the waves while teenagers play traditional music on guitars and violins.

After the summer festivities, we hike the hills to explore chapels adorned with frescoes, waiting eagerly for rain to bring forth blooming wildflowers.

Stay: Uno Apartments in Livadia has two-bedroom flats starting from €100 per night, while the more upscale Ilidi Rock offers one-bedroom flats from €105 per night.
Jennifer Barclay

Rab, northern Croatia

Rab is synonymous with celebration, especially during the summer months. This Croatian island, situated in the Kvarner Gulf, covers just 35 square miles, yet it is alive with music, laughter, and the mouthwatering aroma of freshly grilled fish wafting along the shore. Timing my visit to coincide with Rabska Fjera, the biggest and oldest medieval festival in Croatia held every July, I enjoyed mackerel grilled on a giant makeshift barbecue on Rab Town’s beach for only €5 a portion.

This summer, visitors can indulge in more culinary delights with Saturday fish festivals in August alternating between the villages of Kampor and Supetarska Draga. The island will host the Rab Jazz festival (29 August – 1 September), providing a lively soundtrack to the Venetian charms of Rab Town.

Climbing a staircase near the pine-covered Komrčar Park offers a breathtaking view of the town’s distinctive skyline, featuring four medieval and Renaissance belfries rising above a sea of terracotta rooftops that stream down a narrow peninsula.

Nearby is the Ljetno Kino, an outdoor cinema that showcases the Rab film festival (23-27 August) as well as blockbuster films and concerts, including those of the jazz festival. Just a short walk away are the remains of the fifth-century basilica of St John the Evangelist, with its 13th-century belltower, one of the iconic four belfries of Rab.

Wandering through Rab Town’s winding marble alleyways led me to Konoba Rab, where I placed an order for dinner, providing the customary 24 hours’ notice for succulent lamb cooked beneath a cast-iron peka (a domed lid). The wait proved worthwhile. Šanpjer restaurant along the harbor front doesn’t take reservations, which results in lengthy queues for dinner; however, I settled for an €8 lunch of grilled sardines the next day. The best dining setting is undoubtedly Restaurant Kamenjak, located in the foothills of Rab’s highest point, making it an excellent spot for sunset viewing.

Tiny Rab boasts almost two dozen beaches with sandy shores—a rarity since Croatia’s coast is primarily rocky and pebbly. Most of these beaches, including the two largest—Rajska and Livačina—are situated on the Lopar peninsula. However, some prefer the rocky shores, where the Kalifront peninsula offers several sheltered coves at Gožinka, Dundo, and Jelenovica, among others. Even the predominantly concrete beach in Rab Town, beneath the 11th-century St. Andrew’s Monastery, became a favored spot for cocktails as twilight set in over this little slice of paradise.
Stay: Arbiana Heritage Hotel offers doubles starting from €110 B&B.
Mary Novakovich

Hallig Hooge, north-west Germany

Many of my fond memories of European islands include Mont Saint-Michel bathed in sunset, a serene beach in Paros, and the enchanting St Helen’s in the Scillies, shimmering like diamonds at sea. Yet, the island that stands out most distinctly in my mind is Hallig Hooge, tucked away in a lesser-known corner of Europe, buffeted by North Sea winds.

Hallig Hooge is the second largest of the ten Fenland-flat islands of the Halligen archipelago off north-west Germany. These islands are incredibly low-lying; when storm tides break through the protective dikes, they nearly vanish beneath the waves. On Hooge, a phenomenon called Landunter (literally “land under”) can occur between two to six times each year. Despite this, a mostly farming community of about 100 people live here seemingly contentedly.

Their charm comes from the attractive barn-like houses that perch safely on nine raised mounds, or Warften, which transform into islets during high tides. Flooding occurs less often in summer, making this a great season for visitors to take the 75-minute ferry ride from the mainland.

During a past summer trip, I disembarked at Hallig Hooge’s small jetty and soon found myself alone beneath a vast, sunny sky. Gazing over seemingly limitless salt marshes dotted with purple and yellow wildflowers, breathing in the quiet and fresh sea air, I experienced a profound sense of upliftment. That feeling lasted throughout my four-day stay in this otherworldly environment.

I rented a bike and began exploring the two-square-mile island, which is largely free of motor vehicles. I visited a small museum and church, watched a chilling film about winter flooding at the Sturmflutkino (Storm Flood Cinema), and exchanged cheerful greetings with horse-cart drivers using the customary Moin (pronounced mo-een). I stocked up on food and Flensburger beer at the local supermarket and enjoyed leisurely picnics in Strandkorben—canopied wicker benches—while observing seals basking on sandbanks and seabirds soaring above.

Nevertheless, the island’s inherent sense of transience is impossible to ignore. With rising sea levels, there looms a significant threat that, in the not-too-distant future, Hooge and its cheerful Warft inhabitants may either be submerged or compelled to relocate.

Stay: Friendly guesthouse-cum-cafe, Pension Hus Waterkant, is conveniently located near the jetty, with double rooms starting from €80 B&B.
Dixe Wills