Tune in to WEVL-FM, 89.9, our local all-volunteer radio station, and prepare for a journey through the town known as the birthplace of rock ‘n’ roll, rich in soulful history.
Friday Night
Begin your adventure in the Edge District, where you can take photos outside Sam Phillips’ studio, perhaps listen in on a couple of verses from Lucero’s band practice, and then take a guided tour of the iconic Sun Studio. The guides, many of whom are talented musicians themselves, like Mark Edgar Stuart, are exceptional, and the tour takes only about 30 minutes. Sing a few lines into the microphone that Elvis used and learn about Memphis’ incredible musical heritage before indulging in some food and drinks.
Just a short walk from Sun Studio is Edge Alley, where you can enjoy breakfast, brunch, lunch, or dinner, all made from scratch with a focus on healthy options. Don’t miss their outstanding house-roasted coffee, signature cocktails, wine by the glass, or locally crafted beer from High Cotton Brewing Co. before making your way to Beale Street.
Yes, Beale Street is a must-see. While many locals tend to avoid it, there’s really no good reason to. This is one of the few places you can reliably find live blues music every night of the week. If you arrive before sunset, head to B.B. King’s Blues Club and take the stairs up to Itta Bena for amazing blue-lit bar views. After dark, check out some top spots for authentic blues music such as Blues City Cafe, Mr. Handy’s Blues Hall, and the Rum Boogie Cafe. A hidden gem is The Absinthe Room, located above King’s Palace Cafe, where you can retreat from the hustle and appreciate the scenery.
If you’re feeling adventurous, walk over the pedestrian-friendly Harahan Bridge across the Mississippi River to CJ’s Blues & Sports Bar on East Broadway in West Memphis. Be sure to tell Clem I sent you and remember to bring some cash!
Wrap up your evening with a visit to Earnestine & Hazel’s on South Main. This former brothel is an authentic old-school juke joint and is the best place downtown for live music outside of Beale Street. If the music’s not live, their jukebox will definitely deliver classics like Bobby “Blue” Bland’s “I Smell Trouble” and Jimmy Reid’s “Aw Shucks Hush Your Mouth.” Be sure to check out the upstairs and enjoy a drink at Mr. Nate’s bar. Make sure to grab a famous Soul Burger to soak up some of the evening’s indulgences before calling it a night.
Saturday
Start your Saturday with a visit to the Arcade Restaurant for breakfast. Make sure to sit in Elvis’ favorite booth and order a hearty meal that includes sweet potato pancakes, eggs, bacon, hash browns, and a locally brewed Wiseacre Gotta Get Up to Get Down coffee milk stout.
If there’s a wait, stroll a few blocks down to the Blues Hall of Fame on Main Street, which opens at 10 a.m. It’s a perfect 30-minute stop to explore memorabilia from renowned artists like Mavis Staples to Johnny Winter. If you’re a music lover, plan your visit around the annual International Blues Challenge from January 8 to February 1, 2020.
After breakfast, don’t miss the Stax Museum of American Soul Music. The introductory video is about 20 minutes long, followed by a self-guided tour that takes around an hour. You’ll find treasures like a modest country church setup, a dance floor aglow with disco lights, a legendary recording studio, every record recorded at Stax, and even Isaac Hayes’ dazzling custom Cadillac Eldorado. Make sure to stop by the gift shop for records, books, and T-shirts.
In the area, you can also visit Willie Mitchell’s Royal Studios, one of the oldest continuously operating recording studios globally, and home to the famous Hi Records and the Hi Rhythm Section. While it’s not open to the public, you might spot Boo Mitchell coming in or out. However, across the street is Hattie’s Tamale & Grocery, where fresh tamales are made daily (they sell around 2,000 a day!). The Delta-style tamales, wrapped in paper and available in hot or mild, are a great snack for your cooler or hotel fridge.
Next, head into Midtown to explore some local record stores. Goner Records in Cooper Young, known for its record label and one of the best festivals of the year—Gonerfest, held the last weekend in September—is a great spot. After picking up some new and used vinyl, take a short walk to snap a picture next to the newly erected Johnny Cash statue, located near the church where he performed publicly for the first time. This will lead you to Payne’s, a barbecue favorite among Sonic Youth when they recorded with Doug Easley. Renowned for its mustard slaw and barbecue bologna, you can’t go wrong with anything on their menu.
Shangri-La Records in Overton Square buys, sells, and trades LPs, CDs, DVDs, books, sheet music, and music equipment. There’s even a possibility of live bands performing in the parking lot. Just a few blocks away, you’ll find Ardent Studios, a site known for producing some of the best music in modern history.
Overton Square is bustling with dining options, but for dinner, consider Coletta’s or Mortimer’s. Coletta’s is one of the oldest Italian restaurants in the city and a favorite of Elvis, particularly known for its barbecue pizza. The South Parkway location boasts one of the best classic bars and even an Elvis Room. Mortimer’s is worth a quick drive east, especially for Big Star fans, as the owner is Chris Bell’s sister. A dedicated Big Star room is adjacent to the bar, and Mortimer’s, known as the Berclair Country Club, exudes blue-collar elegance with a menu that leans toward Cajun while offering something for every palate.
Saturday night provides various chances to enjoy live music. In summer and fall, Levitt Shell in Overton Park hosts free outdoor concerts that are a hit among both locals and tourists. Fun fact: the Shell was the site of the “first-ever rock ’n’ roll show,” an Elvis performance in 1954.
Another fantastic option is The Green Room in Crosstown Concourse for affordable and engaging performances. Once a Sears Tower, it has transformed into a lively vertical village filled with art galleries, restaurants, a bar, and a brewery, making it an ideal evening spot.
Also revitalized is Hernando’s Hide-a-way, which Dale Watson has recently restored—this venue was once called Jerry Lee Lewis’ “office.” Here, you can enjoy happy hour, live music, and delicious burgers and fried catfish.
For night owls, late-night live music can be found at venues like the Hi Tone, B-Side, or DKDC. Wild Bill’s is another traditional, cash-only juke joint that guarantees blues and plenty of dancing. For a more laid-back vibe, head to Alex’s Tavern, a beloved dive bar with two jukeboxes, numerous TVs, a renowned Greek burger, popular Greek wings, a fantastic staff, and no official closing time.
Sunday Morning
We suggest sleeping in before enjoying a pour-over brew at Low Fi, where vinyl music plays on Sunday mornings. At around 11 a.m., make your way to Full Gospel Tabernacle, better known as Al Green’s church. The congregation warmly welcomes tourists and music-loving locals alike. Rev. Green arrives around noon, either dressed in a colorful robe or dark suit and sunglasses. While he might not perform his hits, expect him to join his seven-piece band for some live singing!
After enjoying Al’s service, take a short trip to Graceland for a selfie at the entrance gates or take the tour if you wish!
Before heading home, indulge in some soul food at The Four Way Inn or Jim & Samella’s House, both of which are excellent choices, albeit likely to be busy—well worth the wait. If you realize you haven’t had enough barbecue by Sunday, make a final stop at Cozy Corner, located about a mile from the Interstate 40 bridge, for their legendary barbecued Cornish hens or some rib ends to take home.
Where to Stay
The Central Station Hotel (by Hilton) is designed for music lovers. The lobby showcases an impressive album cabinet filled with vinyl records connected to the city’s music history. A live DJ spins a collection of 40,000 songs throughout the day. Guests receive a daily playlist and live music show listings at their doors instead of a newspaper.
Close to Graceland is Dale Watson’s Airbnb, titled Lil Graceland, available for $160 a night. It features a stylish Jungle Room and a “Wat-Sun Studio” in the basement, boasting a solid ’50s ambiance while providing all the modern amenities, including comfy beds, ample outlets, televisions, and even an Alexa device. Consider asking about the two Airstream trailers located in the backyard if your preferred dates are unavailable—they’re another great accommodation option for guests.
If you’re traveling with a group, consider another Airbnb listing that accommodates up to 14 guests for $800 a night, described as “A gift from Elvis to his doctor.”
