I was driving for miles along a gravel road, shrouded in thick dust that obscured my vision as I headed towards Plush, Oregon.
A weekend away from Wi-Fi and phone service wasn’t my choice, but it turned out to be a refreshing change. As the gravel gave way to pavement, I approached the closest town near the Hart Mountain Antelope Refuge.
Plush, Oregon, is just an hour’s drive from the Refuge, featuring seven secluded lakes in the Warner Valley that beckon for kayaking adventures.
Accommodations are limited to three options, apart from campsites.
The best choice for a stay is a manufactured Airbnb—a rectangular tin structure with a view of Hart Mountain. It boasts three bedrooms and a porch, surrounded by meadows where you can enjoy sunsets and the chirping of birds, the only sound in the peaceful air. Inside, the medicine cabinet is stocked with potent bug spray, Deet to be precise—perhaps an indication of the town’s mosquito problem.
Plush is a tiny town, measuring just one block, with a last recorded population of merely 67 residents.
Trump flags flutter in front of homes and the Hart Mountain Store, the town’s only retailer. Its catchy slogan reads, “We are a small, quiet drinking town with a cattle problem.” It’s not just a store; it’s also the lone bar, gas station, and eatery, featuring mostly bare shelves and a few ripe lemons left in the cooler. Thankfully, they offer six-packs of 10 Barrel IPA and other craft beers, much to my delight. The store displays chipped gray paint on its exterior, complemented by a tin roof that provides shelter and shade out front.
As my friends, donned in Patagonia puffy jackets, gather on the store’s patio, we settle into mismatched chairs around retro Formica tables, reminiscing and sipping beer while discussing politics. I observe tall ranchers in plaid shirts, adorned with shiny buckles and cowboy hats, coming in and out of the store. They acknowledge us with a friendly “howdy,” despite knowing we aren’t locals.
Just six miles down the road lies the Warner Wetlands, identified by the abundance of birds soaring across the highway.
This area is a paradise for bird enthusiasts, home to species like American Bitterns, Black-Necked Stilts, and White-faced Ibis, among others.
After driving seventeen miles, we finally arrive at the Refuge, where trails of varying lengths offer unobstructed views and abundant wildlife, including over 3,400 Pronghorn antelope roaming the plains. We first scan the sagebrush for glimpses of white, a good sign of antelope nearby. I also search the rocks for Petroglyphs created by the Kidütökadö band of the Northern Paiute over 10,000 years ago. My friend Kathy keeps a safe distance after spotting a Rattlesnake warning sign, but I continue to explore and discover some petroglyphs not marked on the maps.
After our hike, I plan to unwind at the stone-enclosed Hart Mountain Hot Springs located near the top of the Refuge.
A small ladder leads down to bubbling waters among cracked rocks deep enough for six people to sit comfortably. Fortunately, there’s no one else around to share it with.
The next day, we found ourselves craving a social media fix; the elementary school offers the only Wi-Fi access in town. We gathered by the playground, swatting away mosquitoes the size of nickels as we sought a stronger signal.
Before we departed Plush, we waited to fill our tank. The attendant, who doubles as the cashier and cook, chirps, “I’ll be right with you hon,” before rushing into the kitchen with her spatula in hand.
Inside the dimly lit bar, five farmers in oversized Wranglers held up by suspenders and John Deere hats sat waiting for breakfast. Dollar bills hung from the rafters as they anticipated plates of chicken-fried steak, hash browns, eggs, and English muffins—the day’s special.
Plush is still off the beaten path for tourists.
This small, sleepy town is surrounded by wilderness, with underappreciated outdoor activities and that one store that keeps calling us back. As we leave, my friend Kathy remarks, “It feels like you’ve stepped back in time; the open spaces, and the town’s center revolving around that one store.” I agree wholeheartedly and am already planning my return trip.
Photography © Tara Haney 2023
