Norway is home to countless hidden gems, with its small villages nestled between fjords, mountains, tunnels, bridges, and ferries. Some of these places remain under the radar, known only to locals as “hold kjeft” spots, which translates to “keep quiet” about them. Here’s a little secret I’ll share with you.
Discovering Varanger: The Road Less Traveled in Norway
Varanger is one of those enchanting places often referred to as off the beaten path or the road less traveled in Norway. Tucked away in the far northeast, it offers a genuine Arctic haven yet to be fully explored. Varanger is Norway’s easternmost point, with Hornøya Island just outside Vardø marking the edge of the country. If you’re seeking to immerse yourself in stunning Arctic landscapes, rich Sami culture and history, mesmerizing nature, bird watching, whale watching, and the breathtaking northern lights or midnight sun, then Varanger is the destination for you! It’s a perfect spot for reconnecting with Mother Nature.
“IT’S NOT DOWN ON ANY MAP; TRUE PLACES NEVER ARE.”
— Herman Melville, *Moby-Dick*, 1851
Embracing Nature in Varanger
Varanger offers a transformative experience—one that reconnects you with the elements: wind, sun, and sea. Everyone should carve out at least a week each year to visit Varanger to reset their body and mind. Breathe in the crisp, clean air, and allow the gentle wind to guide you through breathtaking sights such as Varangerbotnen, Nesseby, Kongsfjord, Vardø, Vadsø, and Berlevåg. These are the types of “hold kjeft” places that await your discovery.
Explore the Scenic Route Through Varanger
The Norwegian Scenic Route of Varanger leads you through a string of coastal and fjord communities, showcasing the cultures of Sami, Kven, and Norwegians. The history of Varanger is rich, with archaeological sites dating back 10,000 years at Mortensnes and traces of more recent World War II events.
Staying at Varanger Lodge with Host Edgar
If you’re seeking an authentic experience, look no further than Varanger Lodge and host Edgar. As a local fisherman, Edgar intimately knows the area and its hidden treasures. He focuses on providing guests with real, immersive experiences and teaches authentic fishing practices, such as catching king crab without overexploiting the ocean’s resources. Edgar believes in taking only what he needs, a philosophy rooted in Sami culture and the teachings of many indigenous peoples.
While staying at Edgar’s, you can enjoy meals prepared with local ingredients sourced from the Varanger Peninsula, including king crab, reindeer, cod, and homemade jams. The lodge itself is built from natural materials, ensuring a healthy atmosphere for relaxation and sleep.
For those seeking a touch of luxury, Varanger Lodge provides an authentic experience accompanied by Edgar’s remarkable knowledge of the region’s “hold kjeft” spots, waiting for you to uncover.
Traveling the Road Less Traveled in Norway during the Shoulder Season
If you didn’t know, September is one of my favorite months to travel in Norway. I’m truly amazed by the light and the rugged Arctic landscape that the North has to offer. Varanger possesses a raw authenticity and uniqueness that can only be found on this peninsula.
— Pauline Solheim
Experience the Kongsfjord Guest House
For a nature-filled retreat, Kongsfjord Guest House offers a serene escape. Stay for three days and embrace the art of doing nothing—wander aimlessly, observe the surrounding wildlife, and soak in the beauty of nature. Kongsfjord is a paradise for birdwatchers. Partnering with Skua Nature will give you the chance to spot species such as the Gyr Falcon, the largest falcon in the world. During my week-long stay with Skua Nature, I honed my birdwatching skills and even managed to spot the elusive Gyr Falcon. A stroke of beginner’s luck!
Syltefjorden
The Unique Charm of Vardø
Vardø, shaped like a butterfly, is a unique island filled with a magnetic energy that captivates everyone who visits. It’s a place where many come and choose to stay. Much like the Eagles’ song, “you can check in anytime you like, but you can never leave,” this island pulls you in with its aura.
Steilneset Memorial in Vardø
Vardø is a region of strong women, who historically managed households while the men were at sea. The Steilneset Memorial marks the somber memory of the witch trials, where 91 individuals were found guilty of witchcraft and executed. A visit to this powerful site, guided by Frank-Cato at Amundsen Explorer, is essential for understanding the island’s history.
Drakkar, Northern Lights & Street Art in Vardø
The Drakkar sculpture, inspired by Viking ships, whales, and trees, is a tribute to the Arctic, crafted in 2016 by artisans from Taibola Architectures. Vardø’s unique street art, spearheaded by the artist Pøbel in 2012, has turned the town into a vibrant art gallery, helping to rejuvenate this once-declining community while telling its story through stunning wall murals.
The Road Less Traveled: Varanger
The secret about Varanger is no longer hidden! It currently remains a lesser-known destination in Norway, but as interest grows, this may soon change. Varanger is a blossoming spot for those seeking authentic local experiences amidst stunning unspoiled nature, spectacular Arctic landscapes, exceptional birdwatching, and the enchanting northern lights or midnight sun. Explore the stories of nature’s mythical power and the resilience of the strong women of Vardø.
This journey through Varanger was inspired by my week-long visit in September 2022, facilitated by Up Norway in collaboration with Skua Nature, including a stay at Varanger Lodge. My opinions and insights remain genuine and heartfelt.
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