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<span style="display: table-caption; caption-side: bottom; font-size: 90%; margin-top: -10px; margin-bottom: 10px; text-align: center;" class="wsite-caption">Don Vito living the life</span>
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<span style="font-weight:500">Each year in May, a couple of dozen young tomato plants are nurtured in my cellar under grow lights, almost ready to be planted in my garden beds. This usually happens within two weeks after the threat of frost has passed in my Zone 6a garden. During this season, my mind is filled with thoughts of tomatoes and the hope for a good harvest for our little family.</span>
<p>If I mention "tomato sauce," your mind immediately goes to Italian cuisine, right? If I say "home-grown tomatoes," you might envision Vito Corleone playing with his grandson in his garden during that memorable final scene of his life. When I say "pizza," a round crust topped with cheese and <strong>tomato sauce</strong> likely comes to mind.</p>
<p>Some Italians assert that the red color of tomatoes symbolizes <em>Il Tricolore</em> (the Italian flag): green for the hills, white for the snow-capped mountains, and red for the blood spilled during their wars of independence.</p>
<p>However, those of us in <em>la cucina</em> Italiana would argue that green represents <strong>pesto</strong>, white is for <em>besciamella</em>, and red is for <em>salsa pomodoro</em>, as seen in tri-color <em>lasagna</em>. Alternatively, one could interpret the flag to represent the simple yet delightful <em>insalata caprese</em>: green basil, white mozzarella, and red ripe tomatoes. In any case, one might say that the red in <em>Il Tricolore</em> represents the true heart of Italy: the tomato.</em></p>
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<p>Cirio started canning tomatoes in 1875</p>
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<span style="font-weight:500">But how did the tomato become such an integral part of Italian culture? Interestingly, it is not indigenous to Italy or even Europe. The tomato was first "discovered" by Spanish Conquistadors during their exploration of the Americas. Its origins trace back to the Andes mountains of Peru, from where it spread to most regions of South and Central America, eventually reaching Mexico. Interestingly, the tomato gained popularity in Europe long before it was recognized in North America. Many Colonial Americans considered it poisonous due to its relation to the Nightshade family, a notorious toxic vine. In fact, the leaves and vines of the tomato plant can be toxic.</span>
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<p>It wasn't until the 1500s, with the arrival of Columbus and other explorers, that tomatoes were introduced to Europe. However, they faced skepticism for around 200 years, as people believed that merely touching a tomato could be fatal.</p>
<p><em>Growing Popularity</em></p>
<p>One factor that likely contributed to the tomato's acceptance in Europe, particularly among the wealthy, was the rumor that tomatoes acted as aphrodisiacs. The general populace likely noticed the affluent Barons thriving while consuming tomatoes, rather than falling ill. It’s easy to imagine that discarded scraps from castles helped disseminate the tomato seeds—everyone knows how prolific tomatoes are, and their seeds easily sprout.</p>
<p>Gradually, peasants began to explore the gnarly wild vines with their enticing red or yellow fruits, observing that birds, squirrels, and rabbits weren't dropping dead after eating them. They thought, "Why not give them a try?" Before long, they discovered a free and easy source of vitamins and flavors. Saving seeds allowed them to cultivate a large harvest from even a modest number of plants.</p>
<p>The term <em>tomato</em> originates from the Aztec word <em>xitomatl</em>, which evolved into <em>tomatl</em> as it reached Europe. The French initially named it <em>pomme d'amour</em> (love apple) before simplifying it to <em>la tomate</em>. In Italy, it was called <em>pomi d’oro</em> (golden apple), eventually leading to the modern term <em>il pomodoro</em>.</p>
<p>Tomatoes come in a wide variety of colors, such as golden yellow, purple, near-black, and green. Alongside tomatoes, <em>tomatillos</em> also made their debut in the Americas, many of which are yellow. The tomato flourished in Italy due to its near-tropical climate, allowing year-round growth in warm temperatures.</p>
<p><em>Tomatoes in La Cucina</em></p>
<p>The first recorded reference to <em>pomi d'oro</em> in Italy dates back to 1548 in Tuscany.</p>
<p>However, as far back as 1692, tomatoes appeared as ingredients in a cookbook from Naples, although the recipes were primarily adapted from Spanish cuisine. This makes sense, given that the Spanish introduced tomatoes first, thanks to their support of Columbus's voyages, despite his Italian heritage. Consequently, Spaniards led the way in teaching Italians how to fry tomatoes with eggplant, squash, and onions, using the dish as a condiment for bread and meats. The cuisine of Southern Italian peasants, often lacking meat and other protein sources, transformed into a predominantly vegetarian diet where tomatoes, olive oil, herbs, and vegetables were served with bread, rice, or polenta.</p>
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<span style="font-weight:500">It took another 200 years for the tomato to become the national treasure it is today. By the late 1700s, the peasants of Naples began placing tomatoes on their flatbreads, creating a dish very similar to modern pizza. This gained tremendous popularity, especially among the elite of Europe and America, which lured tourists to Naples to indulge in this culinary delight. Pizza was born.</span>
<p>After his own Grand Tour, <span>Thomas Jefferson, being an expert farmer and culinary enthusiast, brought tomato seeds back from Europe. He cultivated, cooked, and wrote about tomatoes. Gradually, people began to take notice of this extraordinary fruit.</span> Around this time, the first documented mentions of tomatoes used in sauces and preserved condiments emerged. In the 1800s, Naples documented a recipe for <em>pasta al pomodoro</em>, marking the first instance of tomatoes being combined with pasta.</p>
<p><em>Pizza Margherita</em></p>
<p>In 1889, after Italy became a unified nation, the King and Queen of Italy visited Naples. Queen Margherita grew tired of the French cuisine that dominated the region and requested a pizza from Naples' famed pizza-maker, Raffaele Esposito. He prepared three varieties: pizza marinara with garlic, pizza Napoli with anchovies, and a third topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella, and basil leaves. The Queen fell in love with the third option, which Esposito subsequently named after her: <span><em>Pizza Margherita</em></span>. Shortly after, the Queen sent a thank-you note, which remains displayed in Pizzeria Brandi, run by Esposito's descendants. As a result of the Queen's endorsement, pizza topped with tomato sauce skyrocketed in popularity, much like a modern-day Yelp recommendation.</p>
<p><em>The Immigrant Tomato</em></p>
<p>If anything has fueled the rise of the tomato, it's the emigration to the United States. λόγω the climate in Italy, tomatoes became a significant crop, allowing even small farmers to produce a surplus of these sweet fruits. A need arose to preserve them and create new markets. Canning became a viable method, especially since only acidic foods could be safely canned in boiling water baths—coincidentally, tomatoes are highly acidic. Sun-drying tomatoes and storing them in olive oil proved to be an effective preservation method, provided no fresh herbs or garlic were added.</p>
<p>During the mid-1800s, advancements in canning technology allowed this cash crop to reach distant markets. By the end of the 19th century, Italians were already using tomatoes in their cooking and as a condiment. Upon emigrating to America, they sought products that reminded them of home—canned tomatoes filled that void, alongside olive oil and other specialty imports.</p>
<p>Both Italians at home and expatriates in America established import-export businesses, providing jobs and economic opportunities based on their newfound wealth. In Italy, particularly around Naples, exporters emerged rapidly. By the time World War I approached, even the <span>Italian Army</span> experimented with canned dishes like <em>ravioli</em>, <em>spaghetti alla bolognese</em>, and <em>pasta e fagioli</em>, thanks to the acidic properties of tomatoes enhancing the canned goods' shelf life. Italian grocery stores in Little Italy neighborhoods across New York, Philadelphia, Chicago, Boston, and New Orleans stocked these products.</p>
<p>Ultimately, with the advent of international distribution of peeled tomatoes (<em>pelati</em>), the tomato made a return to the Americas, but this time via Italy and Europe, rather than directly from its neighbor, Mexico.</p>
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<span style="font-weight:500"><em>Types of Tomatoes</em></span>
<p>There are over <em>7,500 varieties of tomatoes</em> grown for various purposes. Heirloom tomatoes are increasingly popular among home gardeners and organic farmers thanks to their variety and incredible flavor, although hybrid tomatoes offer more disease resistance. The categories of tomatoes include:</p>
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<li><span style="font-weight:500"><em>Globe</em> tomatoes are the standard shape found in stores; they're commonly used for slicing and adding to salads.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-weight:500"><em>Beefsteak</em> tomatoes are large, with one slice suited for a substantial sandwich, featuring a sweet flavor.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-weight:500"><em>Oxheart</em> tomatoes vary in size and are shaped like large hearts or strawberries.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-weight:500"><em>Plum</em> tomatoes, often referred to as paste tomatoes, have a meaty texture and can be quite elongated.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-weight:500"><em>Pear</em> tomatoes are also pear-shaped and may be either paste types or smaller varieties with less flesh.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-weight:500"><em>Cherry</em> tomatoes are small, usually about 1” in diameter, and are known for their sweet flavor, often eaten whole or halved in salads.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-weight:500"><em>Grape</em> tomatoes are smaller than cherry tomatoes, sometimes as small as blueberries, making them perfect for salads.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-weight:500"><em>Campari</em> tomatoes are also sweet, typically sold on the vine, larger than cherry tomatoes but smaller than plum varieties.</span></li>
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<p>Every type of tomato can come in various colors, including deep red, pink, purple, green, striped, yellow, pale yellow, ivory, orange, and even dark purple (commonly referred to as "black")—some even feature stripes!</p>
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<p>Globe shape</p>
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<p>Beefsteak: Giant Belgium</p>
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<p>Oxheart shape</p>
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<p>Plum shape</p>
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<p>Pear shape</p>
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<p>Cherry Tomato cluster</p>
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<p>Grape Tomato clusters</p>
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<p>Campari tomatoes</p>
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<span style="font-weight:500">When growing tomatoes at home, it’s crucial to know if your variety is "determinate" or "indeterminate." Determinate varieties grow and produce fruit to a certain height before stopping, while indeterminate varieties continue to grow and produce as long as the season allows. Determinate plants tend to be shorter, whereas indeterminate ones can reach heights of 8 feet or more, so appropriate support structures like tall cages are essential.</span>
<p>You’ll also need to choose between heirloom or hybrid seeds. Heirlooms allow for seed saving, meaning you can plant them year after year and they will produce the same variety. I save seeds from my best-tasting heirloom plants, welcoming their descendants each new planting season as old friends.</p>
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<p>Assorted Heirloom Tomatoes</p>
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<span style="display: table-caption; caption-side: bottom; font-size: 90%; margin-top: -10px; margin-bottom: 10px; text-align: center;" class="wsite-caption">I grow Jersey Devil, a much sweeter, less acidic paste tomato</span>
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<span style="font-weight:500">The best-known tomato for canning is a plum-shaped variety from the San Marzano region, near Naples, on the fertile slopes of Mount Vesuvius. It's no coincidence that about 80% of Italian immigrants came from this area. For over 120 years, San Marzano tomatoes have been the preferred choice for canning and sun-drying.</span>
<p>San Marzano tomatoes are recognized with DOP protected status by the European Union; ensure you look for their seal on cans to confirm authenticity. The first Italian cannery was established in 1875 by Francesco Cirio, an early champion of San Marzano tomatoes. His company picked, peeled, canned, and distributed these tomatoes throughout Italy and later to America.</p>
<p>The success of San Marzano tomatoes isn't solely due to their taste; they were hybridized from three other varieties to adapt to mechanical harvesting introduced in the late 1800s to meet the expanding canning industry's needs. This somewhat diminishes the romance of San Marzano being "the best" Italian tomato, but it's worth noting that many chefs understand that their acidity often requires sugar to balance the flavor.</p>
<p>Once during a visit to a nearby town, Lucas and I tried an "artisanal pizza" where the chef claimed to use only the best San Marzano tomatoes for his sauce. By the end of the meal, we both felt an uncomfortable burn on our lips from the excessive acidity. If you seek truly sweet tomatoes, consider opting for <em>heirloom</em> varieties instead.</p>
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<p>A morning's harvest from our garden.</p>
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<span><em>Growing Your Own Heirloom Tomatoes</em></span>
<br/>It's relatively easy to grow tomatoes from seed, but a simpler method is to buy heirloom plants from local nurseries in spring. Avoid any labeled "hybrid," as you cannot save seeds from them; they won’t resemble the parent fruit. Many garden centers now offer heirloom varieties, allowing you to start growing and save seeds from your healthiest and tastiest fruits for future harvests, creating a family tradition.<p>Now, purchasing and planting heirloom plants just after your area's frost danger has passed is advisable. You can check planting schedules based on your U.S. zip code for the best timing.</p>
<p><span><em>Now, how to plant...</em></span> Ensure the soil is well-tilled and fluffy, amended with organic material; a mixture of peat moss (to retain water) and compost works well. Avoid using fresh manure as it can burn the plants. Various organic or non-organic plant foods suitable for fruit-bearing vegetables are available.</p>
<p>When planting, here's a helpful tip: tomatoes will develop roots along their stems if planted deeply. For young seedlings, remove the lower leaves and plant them deeply. If I have 12-inch tall plants, I will bury about two-thirds of them underground. This approach enhances root growth, providing more nutrients for your plants and fruits.</p>
<p>I support my plants using "quad-pods," a four-legged tripod structure made from wood or bamboo. As the plants grow, trim side suckers that form in the leaf joints and secure the plants to the supports. I plant one tomato plant at each corner of the quad-pods.</p>
<p>With heirloom varieties, you can explore different colors and shapes: yellow, purple, black, pink, red, and even striped. My favorite all-around tomato is called Eva Purple Ball, a perfect pink, 3-inch tomato free from pests. For the best tasting beefsteak variety, I favor Giant Belgium. I also enjoy growing Olivette Jaune, a prolific yellow pear shape, and Jersey Devil, a horned chili pepper-shaped sauce tomato. For optimal flavor, harvest during the morning. As your tomatoes near ripeness, reduce watering to concentrate their flavors.</p>
<p><span><em>Seed-Saving</em></span><br/>When saving heirloom seeds, label them carefully. Collect seeds from the largest, blemish-free fruits, as their genetics will yield a strong strain for next year. Place the seeds in a plastic cup with water, labeled with the variety and notes about performance (like robustness or pest resistance). Cover with a damp paper towel and allow it to ferment for a week. Afterward, rinse the seeds, replacing the water until only clean seeds remain. Lay them out to dry on a labeled coffee filter and store them in paper envelopes with notes.</p>
<p>You can begin your seeds indoors about 6-8 weeks before the last frost under artificial lights in seed-starting trays. I typically use two sizes of pots: small peat or compressed paper pots for initial seedlings and then transplant to 4-inch plastic pots. Before planting in the garden, I harden them off by placing them outside in a protected area to adapt to the temperature and wind.</p>
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<p><span><br/><span style="font-weight:500"><span><span><span><span><span><span><span><span><span>Copyright, Jerry Finzi, Grand Voyage Italy, All rights reserved</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-weight:500"></span></p>
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