Rishiri Island: Hokkaido’s Hidden Adventure Haven

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Mount Rishiri is often affectionately nicknamed “Rishirifuji” because of its striking similarity to Japan’s famous Mount Fuji, found on the mainland.

As our plane approaches Rishiri Island, aptly named after this volcano, I am greeted by the sight of the dormant conical peak, beautifully covered in lush forests. Its jagged outline shifts and changes as we alter our position during the final descent.

Stepping out of the airplane into the refreshing cool air of the island is a welcome relief, especially after enduring several hot and humid days in Sapporo and the Shakotan Peninsula.

I appreciate the drop in temperature and the chance to explore this little-known, seldom-visited region of Hokkaido. Rishiri Island offers a surprising number of activities, and I am eager to experience them all. Join me on this adventure!

Active and Adventurous Activities on Rishiri Island

Located off the northwest coast of Hokkaido, Japan, Rishiri Island is a remote and peaceful destination. Along with neighboring Rebun Island, it is part of the Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park.

Renowned for its pristine natural beauty and the majestic Mount Rishiri, the island provides visitors with opportunities to explore stunning landscapes, immerse themselves in traditional Japanese culture, and partake in outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling, and kayaking.

Itsukushima Benten Shrine of the North on Rishiri

Find accommodation options ranging from hostels to luxury hotels

Hiking Mount Rishiri

The island’s most iconic landmark is Mount Rishiri, an extinct volcano that towers 1,721 meters above sea level. Commonly called “Rishirifuji” for its resemblance to Japan’s iconic Mount Fuji, it is a must-visit for avid hikers.

The complete ascent to the summit is a challenging all-day hike with steep sections, particularly near the top. Most hikers start at Kutsugata Port, which takes approximately 8-10 hours for a round trip.

This hike takes you through lush forests filled with alpine flowers, rocky ridges, and stunning landscapes. For seasoned hikers, this adventure offers unforgettable panoramic views of the surrounding sea, nearby Rebun Island, and the northern coast of Hokkaido as a reward for all your efforts.

Hikers are advised to bring comprehensive gear, wear suitable hiking boots, heed the weather conditions, and start early in the morning. The ideal times for this hike are from June to August.

Mount Rishiri from the air

Hiking to Mount Pon

If you’re looking for a less strenuous hike, consider the Himenuma-Pon-yama Nature Trail that begins at the Rishiri Hokuroku Campsite, close to the coastal town of Rishirifuji. This looping trail leads to the summit of Mount Pon, which stands 445 meters above sea level, and can be completed in under an hour (one way). In case of inclement weather, you can head back on this trail after taking a snack break in the wooden pergola by the creek.

Hiking up Mount Pon on Rishiri Island

Cycling around Rishiri Island

The coastal road around Rishiri Island makes for a fantastic cycling experience. The island measures just 60 kilometers in circumference, and its cycling paths are relatively flat and quiet, making them ideal for cyclists of all skill levels.

If you don’t have your own bicycle, renting one on the island is a great option, allowing you to explore at your leisure and stop at scenic viewpoints, tranquil beaches, and charming fishing villages along the way.

A woman cycling in Rishiri Island with Mount Rishiri in the background

On my cycling adventure around the island during the annual Tour of Rishiri Island event, I frequently stopped to capture pictures of the stunning coastal vistas, ever-changing views of Mount Rishiri, distinctive volcanic rock formations, and the island’s scenic landscape.

Long view of the cycling path on Rishiri Island

In total, cycling completely around the island took me about six hours; however, seasoned cyclists might complete the route in just two hours.

Several popular stops along the way include Senhoshi Misaki Park, renowned for its unique lava formations, and Otatomari Marsh, a serene wetland area surrounded by mountain forests.

Explore Otatomari Marsh

Otatomari Marsh, located in the southern region of the island, is a tranquil and picturesque location ideal for leisurely walks or relaxed picnics.

Surrounded by lush flora, the marsh provides stunning views of Mount Rishiri. Visitors can stroll along well-maintained paths and enjoy birdwatching from the Otatomari Observation Deck, which offers excellent photography opportunities.

While “swamp” might not sound appealing, the Hime natural wetland area, equipped with a small but sturdy suspension bridge, is a delightful find.

On clear days, the surface of the pond reflects Mount Rishiri, making it a charming spot for a nature walk. A raised boardwalk encircles the swamp and can be traversed in just 20 minutes, taking you through a tall forest of Sakhalin fir and black spruce trees.

This area is perfect for birdwatching; I was able to spot herons, ravens, and even a black woodpecker. Flycatchers are also common in this idyllic location.

Walking at Hime Swamp with a red umbrella

Visit Kutsugata Cape Park

This small park, located on the western edge of Rishiri Island, offers breathtaking coastal views where you can appreciate rugged cliffs, the expansive ocean, and vibrant sunsets. The park features a lighthouse and several walking paths leading to lovely viewpoints over the Sea of Japan and Rebun Island.

The volcanic scenery, coupled with the lighthouse and the sounds of crashing waves at the Kutsugata-misaki promontory, makes this a perfect spot for photographers and for observing local seabirds and coastal vegetation. The park is family-friendly, with grassy areas for kids to play and is also popular among campers.

Lighthouse on Rishiri Island in summer

Relaxing at Rishiri Onsen

After a long day of exploring, cycling, or hiking, there’s no better way to unwind than by visiting the Rishirifuji Hot Spring Onsen.

This hot spring facility features both indoor and outdoor pools, situated at the southern end of Oshidomari. Visitors can relax while enjoying views of the surrounding mountains and sea, especially in the outdoor pool as the sun sets over the Sea of Japan.

Go Sea Kayaking

If you enjoy water activities, then sea kayaking is a popular choice on Rishiri Island. The early morning hours are best for this serene experience, as ocean conditions are usually calm. Paddle along the coast, explore hidden coves, and get close to the island’s awe-inspiring rock formations.

Coastal views on Rishiri Island

Try a Sea Urchin Experience

If you’ve ever wondered about the origin of uni (sea urchin roe), stop at Kamui Park for an interactive opportunity to learn about these fascinating creatures from local fishermen and women.

Hokkaido supplies most of the uni consumed in Japan, as the urchins thrive in the island’s cold waters. At Kamui Park, you can board a fishing boat and use a traditional net, known as “tamo,” to catch urchins. Once you’ve harvested your catch, enjoy the experience of cracking open your own urchin (it’s quite a task!). You can then clean and eat the uni, making this the freshest seafood experience you’ll ever have.

The flavor of uni is briny and distinctive. Just to clarify, uni isn’t roe (eggs); sea urchins can be male or female, and the uni consists of their gonads or ovaries.

Sea urchin tools and uni

Learn About Rishiri Kombu

There’s general kombu, and then there’s Rishiri Island kombu. The island’s renowned dried seaweed is uniquely air and sun-dried, making it some of the highest quality kombu available in Japan.

While cycling around the island, I noticed square areas of rocks covered with strips of drying sea kelp. Kombu is highly valued for creating dashi, the flavorful Japanese broth. At Kamui Park, you can learn about this seaweed and even take home tasty souvenirs to prepare your own dashi, which is perhaps the best possible memento from Rishiri.

A woman drying kombu in the sunshine on Rishiri

Explore Nearby Rebun Island

Rugged and remote, Rebun Island is just a short (45-minute) ferry ride from Rishiri Island. You can also reach Rebun from Wakkani via a 90-120 minute ferry ride or a plane from Sapporo.

Rebun Island is affectionately known as the “Floating Island of Flowers” due to the vast array of 300 types of alpine plants that bloom during summer, including the island’s own rare version of Edelweiss, called Rebun Usuyukiso.

Visitors can discover flower-filled meadows, cliffs, and forests while hiking along one of seven protected trails, including the renowned “Rebun Island Trekking Course.” This four-hour hike, also known as the Cape Excursion, provides magnificent views of both Rishiri and the Sea of Japan from Capes Gorota and Sukoton.

If time permits, consider a two-day trip to Rebun from Rishiri to fully appreciate this unique island and the views of Rishiri-Fuji not found elsewhere.

Flowers on Rebun Island

Visit the Rishiri Museum of Folklore

For an in-depth understanding of Rishiri’s history, culture, and environment, make sure to visit the Rishiri Museum of Folklore. This charming wooden building, formerly the Oniwaki Village Hall built in 1913, offers exhibits about the island’s geology, wildlife, and the lifestyle of its inhabitants.

Here, you can learn about the indigenous Ainu community, the history of fishing on the island, and the volcanic processes that shaped Rishiri’s distinctive landscape. It’s a worthwhile one-hour stop, especially on a rainy day.

Rishiri Folklore Museum

Savor Local Cuisine

Despite its small population of around 5,000 inhabitants, clustered mainly in two towns, Rishiri Island boasts impressive dining options.

Surrounded by ocean, the island is celebrated for its seafood, especially its top-quality sea urchin (uni) and kombu (kelp). Therefore, indulging in fresh seafood is essential when visiting the island.

Local restaurants serve a variety of dishes featuring these specialties, including uni donburi (sea urchin rice bowl), fresh sashimi, and kombu-infused miso soup.

Ramen with soba noodles and tempura vegetables

Rishiri Ramen Miraku is a must-visit for its rich bowls of shoyu ramen. I relished a vegetarian version with delicious bamboo shoots, while my friend opted for the traditional pork-topped ramen. Pro tip: The restaurant opens at 11 AM, but you can place your name on the waiting list earlier, allowing you to get seated right away.

Bar Tecchi is a cozy late-night sake bar located on the west coast of Rishiri town. It can be tricky to find as it’s on the second floor of a building. Just look for a small signboard, head up the stairs, and enjoy their excellent selection of sake, wine, and other spirits.

Two Unique Food Experiences

Here are two one-of-a-kind food experiences I must share. One is a visit to the Milpis Shop where you can taste a unique beverage made from lactic acid.

The owner, a former dairy farmer, produces Milpis with fresh groundwater from Rishiri. This tiny shop, which also serves as a production facility, has only three tables and is adorned with photos of celebrity visitors.

As for the flavor? Milpis is delicious and refreshing, creating a bit of a local craze. The recipe was developed over 50 years ago by the farmer. It’s an absolute must-try, and you leave the bottle behind so the farmer can clean and reuse it.

Claudia Laroye with Milpis drink on Rishiri

Scream for Kombu Cream

Prepare yourself for Hokkaido’s best soft serve with a kombu twist at Kita-Ri-N-Do. Its enthusiastic owner, Chiharu Hirakawa, has created aisurishirizan, a unique sundae made with vanilla soft serve topped with kelp salt, bits of soft kelp, and dried sea urchin, served with a kelp spoon.

There is a specific way to eat this delightful sundae — you start with the uni before mixing the ingredients together thoroughly using the kelp spoon. On busy summer days, Ms. Hirakawa serves over 100 of these creative sundaes!

Soft serve with kombu, kelp salt, and dried uni

Rishiri Island stands as a hidden gem for travelers wishing to discover a distinctive region of Hokkaido and Japan. It offers the perfect mix of outdoor adventure, natural beauty, and cultural experiences.

Whether you are hiking the majestic Mount Rishiri, cycling the island’s pathways, or simply enjoying the peaceful coastal vistas, this island guarantees a memorable escape from the hustle and bustle of daily life, allowing you to reconnect with nature.

Where to Stay on Rishiri Island

Rishiri Island features a good number of ryokan in its two main towns, Rishiri and Rishirifuji. I personally stayed at the larger and well-established Island Inn Rishiri, conveniently located near Kutsugata Cape Park. My room was comfortable, although the décor was somewhat dated, but the onsen hot spring made up for it. The hotel also has an on-site laundry facility, and we enjoyed both buffet breakfasts and several delicious multi-course seafood dinners.

Dinner bento box at Island Inn Rishiri

There is a complimentary airport shuttle service available, as well as bicycles for rent, ideal for leisurely rides around town rather than extensive cycling around the island.

How to Get to Rishiri Island

You can fly to Rishiri Island from Sapporo, either from New Chitose Airport or the smaller Okadama Airport. The flight takes approximately 50 minutes.

Alternatively, you can drive to Rishiri Island via the vehicle ferry from Wakkani, located at the northern tip of Hokkaido. The complete trip from Sapporo lasts about 7 hours, including a two-hour ferry ride.

Sunset on Rishiri Island

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Photos: Claudia Laroye; Pixabay

Disclosure: The writer thanks KTN and Tourism Hokkaido for hosting her visit and stay on Rishiri Island. As always, her views and enthusiasm for adventures in Hokkaido are genuine and her own.

Claudia Laroye
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