By Valerie Berenyi
Over the past few years, I’ve had the wonderful opportunity to embark on self-guided cycling tours through one of my favorite destinations: Italy, a country I’ve visited five times.
Together with five friends, I explored the tranquil backroads of Puglia, taking breaks to swim in the exquisite seas, connect with ancient olive trees, meet vibrant locals, marvel at breathtaking art, and indulge in unforgettable cuisine.
During those moments, especially when spring in Canada is delayed or winter sets in early, I find myself yearning for the many delights of Italy: its warmth, its leisurely pace, and its sweet way of life, largely enjoyed outdoors.
Since a trip to Italy isn’t in the cards for me this year, I’m seeking other ways to nurture my Italophilia.
Fortunately, there’s a place in Calgary that I frequent whenever I want to relive the ambiance of an Italian getaway. Here, I can enjoy a taste of la dolce vita along with a cappuccino, while picking up essential items like high-quality olive oil, balsamic vinegar, Parmesan cheese, and canned plum tomatoes.
Like many Canadian cities, Calgary has been enriched by a significant influx of Italian immigrants who have brought with them their joyous spirit, love for family, and renowned hospitality.
Food lies at the heart of their culture, and upon arriving in Canada, many of these immigrants established restaurants and shops, introducing us to the authentic flavors of their homeland.
This is the story of the Italian Centre Shop, located in Calgary’s southeast. It was opened in 2015 as part of a small chain of five stores in Alberta. The shop traces its roots back to a tiny confectionery established in Edmonton’s Little Italy in 1959 by Frank Spinelli, an Italian immigrant from a small town near Naples in the Campania region.
After Frank’s passing in 2000, his daughter Teresa Spinelli took charge of the family business, now overseeing three locations in Edmonton, one in Sherwood Park, and one in Calgary. Plans are underway to open a second Calgary store in the city’s northwest by 2026.
So, why do I love the Italian Centre Shop? There’s an enchanting atmosphere here that embodies the Italian spirit of joy, playfulness, and generosity.
For starters, it’s often bustling with visitors of all ages, making it a fantastic spot for people-watching. While many Italians shop here, the store attracts individuals from various backgrounds, all drawn in by its lively ambiance and high-quality European products — over 30,000 items imported from more than 30 countries.
Like many fellow Calgarians, I cherish travel and strive to keep that international romance alive. I discovered a delightfully rich decaf coffee made by the Neapolitan company Kimbo in Italy, and I was thrilled to find the same brand both served and sold at the Italian Centre Shop.
The shop’s layout is also intriguing, offering various sections to explore. “Each area has its own unique taste and smell,” explains general manager Gino Marghella, who has been with the business since 1999 and oversees all five locations. He shares that the store is designed to resemble a streetscape from Milan.
Take the produce section, for instance, a vibrant array of competitively priced fruits and vegetables. Marghella notes that sourcing from three suppliers keeps prices affordable. The meat section features local Hutterite chickens and grass-fed Piedmontese beef from Lacombe, Alberta.
Next to the meat area, separated by a wall, is the “bread barn” — a quieter, dimly lit space where bakers create delicious ciabatta rolls and cannoli seven days a week.
Then there’s the “cathedral of cheese,” as Marghella affectionately calls it, housing a massive refrigerated wall filled with large wheels of cheeses ranging from Parmigiano Reggiano to Piave Vecchio. Each year, the shop imports 80,000 kilograms of cheese from Italy.
The true generosity of Italy can be experienced at the Italian Centre Shop’s onsite restaurant. The offerings at Spinelli’s Bar Italia, including pizzas, sandwiches, pastries, and gelato, are simply divine, as is the staff.
Marghella believes that while anyone can learn to make coffee, qualities like kindness and hospitality are inherent. He hires individuals who naturally embody these traits and trains them well.
The staff make genuine eye contact, engage with customers and colleagues, and enjoy their work — and so do we.
This warmth and humanity draw me back time and again, especially on sunny days when I can cycle here with friends for pizza, coffee, and perhaps a tantalizing lemon tart.
It’s the next best thing to Italy.
*Postscript: After this article was submitted, the Italian Centre Shop was recognized as one of “Canada’s Best Managed Companies.” In response, owner Teresa Spinelli emphasized that her company’s mission, beyond delivering exceptional food quality and customer service, is to “create community through food and cultural experiences.”
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