Words by Dalene & Pete Heck / Photography by Dalene & Pete Heck
Our passion for Latin America runs deep. Fifteen years ago, our nomadic adventure began with two one-way tickets to Bolivia from Canada, where we learned Spanish before backpacking around South America for nearly a year. Since that initial journey, we have returned to the region many times, and our appreciation for its rich culture has only intensified. The allure of Latin America continues to call us back.
Nowadays, our travel style has evolved; it’s less about the endless exploration and more about traditional vacations. Now that we’ve settled in Nova Scotia, we planned a two-week trip to Panama this winter, transitioning from backpacks to suitcases and opting for more comfortable accommodations than in our backpacking days.
With excitement, we headed to Panama, one of the last two Central American countries we had not yet visited. We spent our initial days in the vibrant capital city—an unexpected delight for first-time visitors—before venturing into El Valle de Anton, a volcanic mountain region, and finally relaxing on the stunning white sand beaches of the San Blas Islands.
Our time in Panama City was a pleasant surprise! It offered a unique blend of beauty and engagement, with a myriad of activities to explore.
Our Favourite Activities in Panama City
Stroll Through the Historic Streets of Casco Viejo
Casco Antiguo, or Casco Viejo (the old town), designated a UNESCO Cultural World Heritage Site, boasts charming brick-lined streets, colonial architecture, cute shops, and lively plazas. We stayed right in the heart of Casco Viejo, allowing us to explore its streets at all hours.
In the mornings, we enjoyed peaceful strolls through the historic district with coffee in hand. The afternoons brought too much heat to explore outside, prompting us to visit museums or lounge by our hotel’s rooftop pool, which offered fantastic views of both the old and new city. As the evening approached, the area came alive with buzzing restaurants and rooftop bars, while families and couples gathered along the shore to watch breathtaking sunsets. If you want the best sunset spot, this is it.
Popular Photo Locations:
- Plaza Herrera – Home to the iconic American Hotel.
- Plaza Independencia – Features the Cathedral, Canal Museum, and Central Hotel.
- Plaza Simon de Bolivar – Home to the Iglesia San Francisco de Asís, known for its iconic bell tower.
- Plaza Francia – A popular sunset viewing spot along the promenade.
Observe Ships Traversing the Panama Canal at the Miraflores Locks
Seeing the Panama Canal is a top priority for visitors, and we were excited to witness this engineering marvel. Interestingly, our Trip Chaser card game was due to pass through the Canal at the same time we visited! (Though it didn’t happen, it would have been quite a coincidence.)
We opted for a guided tour of the Panama Canal to gain a deeper understanding, and we’re glad we did.
Our guide, Dennis, texted us the night before, urging us to arrive earlier than planned to catch a ship passing through the locks—and we couldn’t miss that opportunity! Upon arriving at the Miraflores Locks Visitor Centre, we were captivated as a massive steel cargo ship navigated the narrow, engineered marvel. Our ticket also included a fascinating film detailing the canal’s history and its significance for Panama today. The tour was definitely worthwhile, providing us with insights into the canal’s impact on Panama and global commerce.
Hike Ancon Hill for Scenic Views
A popular activity in Panama City is hiking up Ancon Hill for breathtaking city views. Locals and tourists alike frequent this spot, which also offers opportunities for wildlife spotting.
The hike is quite accessible. You simply follow a service road for about 1.5 km. Although we hoped to spot a sloth among the trees, we didn’t see much wildlife, but the stunning views of the old town and Panama City skyline made the hike worth it. At the summit of Ancon Hill, there’s also a viewpoint overlooking the Panama Canal. The entire hike takes just over an hour, not including a 30-minute walk to/from the old town.
Explore the Panama Canal Museum
Even after visiting Miraflores, the Panama Canal Museum is a worthy stop, offering a thorough exploration of this remarkable human achievement.
Within this historic building, we learned about the canal’s construction and its significant impact on Panama and the world through detailed exhibits showcasing its history and challenges. The museum beautifully illustrates Panama’s rich heritage and its ongoing legacy as a global trade hub.
Discover History at Panama Viejo
Exploring Panama Viejo, another UNESCO Cultural World Heritage Site, is like traveling back in time. After taking an early morning Uber from our hotel in Casco Viejo, we purchased our tickets and hopped on a shuttle to the ancient ruins of the first European settlement on the Pacific coast. This Spanish colonial site dates back to the early 1500s when it was established by Pedro Arias Dávila and others, marking the original Panama City.
Among the most significant remnants is the cathedral and bell tower, where restoration efforts allowed us to ascend to the top for stunning views of the surrounding ruins and a unique contrast between old and new Panama. We sought shade as we explored, covering only a portion of the grounds before retreating to the small, air-conditioned museum to delve deeper into the history and evolution of Panama City.
Savor Sunset Cocktails at a Rooftop Bar
No visit to Panama City would be complete without experiencing a stunning sunset from a rooftop bar with a cocktail in hand. We were astounded by the range of options—the city is bustling with spots vying for the title of the coolest venue with the best views, cocktails, and DJs. Each evening, we “rooftop hopped” to discover our favorite location!
Regardless of where we went, we always arrived early to secure great seating. As we savored unique cocktails mixed with local ingredients, ambient trip-hop music created a vibrant atmosphere. Our favorite discovery? On our last night, we found a cozy corner with comfy chairs on a lovely terrace overlooking the Atlantic. We leisurely enjoyed the stunning orange, pink, and golden hues of the sunset, reflecting on the wonderful lives we have built for ourselves.
Our recommended rooftop bars:
- Casa Casco
- Vista Corona Panamá
- Selina Casco Viejo
- Tántalo Rooftop Bar
- Mazatlan Rooftop (our favorite)
Walk or Bike Along the Cinta Costera
Cinta Costera is a 7 km coastal promenade that provides a perfect path for runners, walkers, and cyclists. Beginning in the bustling Paitilla neighborhood, it stretches past the Mercado De Marisco (Fish Market) on Avenida Balboa, ending in El Chorrillo near Casco Viejo. We recommend starting in Casco Viejo, so you can reward yourself with a cold beer and ceviche at the fish market afterward.
There are plenty of attractions along the way. You’ll find numerous “platos turísticos” (lookouts) perfect for taking breaks and snapping photos. On the way back, we stopped at the Seafood Market before continuing to the Mirador Pacifico. The promenade ends at the Playita de la Cinta Costera—feel free to turn around and retrace your 7 km journey if you wish (we chose not to!).
Insider Tip: You can rent bikes at either end of the Cinta Costera and in Casco Viejo.
Cruise Along the Amador Causeway
During our Panama Canal tour, we enjoyed a brief guided ride through several popular neighborhoods along the Amador Causeway. This scenic 6 km road, constructed between 1904 and 1914 using the extracted rocks from the canal diggings, forms a divide between the Pacific Ocean and Panama Bay, leading directly into the Canal.
Now, Amador Causeway is a beloved destination for locals and visitors alike, ideal for walking, running, or cycling. Along the route, you’ll find cozy spots to relax and enjoy the city views while feeling the refreshing ocean breeze. Numerous restaurants, cafes, and bars dot the causeway, perfect for quenching your thirst or satisfying your hunger. We also heard that the Biomuseo, a colorful building designed by renowned architect Frank Gehry, deserves some time. Inside, you’ll learn about Panama’s biodiversity and its global importance.
Remember: Before leaving Amador Causeway, snap a selfie in front of the famous Panama sign!
Taste the World’s Most Expensive Coffee
Panama City is renowned for its coffee scene, featuring numerous trendy cafes throughout Casco Antiguo. Here, we learned that Panama produces some of the most expensive coffee globally. Distinct from Japan’s “Geisha,” Panamanian Geisha coffee is crafted from rare beans found in only a few regions worldwide.
Eager to try it, we visited Sisu Coffee Studio for their pour-over Geisha coffee. Contrary to our expectations of a bold brew, it was light and floral in flavor. At $10 USD per cup, we enjoyed the experience, but we agreed that while it was delightful, we were content with our usual morning cappuccino.
Where to Find Geisha Coffee in Panama City:
- Sisu Coffee Studio (Casco Viejo)
- Cafe Unido (Casco Viejo)
- Siete Granos (El Cangrejo)
Relish Ceviche at Mercado de Mariscos (Seafood Market)
We enjoy strolling through food markets, especially in Latin America, drawn by their lively and colorful ambiance. For those who can brave the strong fish odors, the lively environment is worth experiencing. Although Dalene is not a fan of the fishy smell, I (Pete) ventured out to find the freshest ceviche at Mercado de Mariscos.
I wandered through the market, taking in the various types of fish on display, from snapper and lobsters to crayfish and tuna. I couldn’t wait to sample some delicious seafood! Inside the market, a few restaurants await (which I didn’t try), but my secret led me to the outdoor stalls on the south side, where vendors beckoned me to try their best ceviche. I opted for the house special at Ceviche Loco, a delightful mix of fresh shrimp, octopus, white fish, and more, all marinated in zesty lime juice. They served it with soda crackers—a simple yet heavenly combination.
Relax by a Rooftop Pool
We quickly discovered that afternoons in Panama City can get quite hot, making a rooftop pool an essential hotel feature. At the Central Hotel, we enjoyed a rooftop pool offering stunning views of the old town and the waterfront.
Having not vacationed in years, it felt wonderful to lounge and do nothing. Armed with books and music, we found the perfect chairs to unwind. Whenever the heat became too much, we plunged into the refreshing pool, indulging in the perfect cycle of sunbathing, reading, and relaxing.
Visit Museo de la Mola (Mola Museum)
After our 4-day adventure in the San Blas Islands, we gained insight into the history and culture of the Guna tribe, the island’s Indigenous inhabitants. To learn even more, we visited Museo de la Mola. Admission to the museum is free, with donations encouraged, and it showcases the exquisite traditional textiles worn by the Guna people, known as molas—intricate designs bursting with color that each tell a unique spiritual story.
Though modest in size (we spent less than an hour there), the museum captivated us with its well-curated exhibits throughout.
Where to Stay in Panama City
We had the pleasure of staying at two boutique hotels in Panama City. The first was the Central Hotel, located on Independence Square. Our spacious and comfortable room offered a gorgeous view of the square. Despite the rooftop pool being a bit bustling for our taste, it was a welcome escape from the afternoon heat.
Central Hotel Check Rates and Availability: Expedia | Booking.com
Next, we stayed at Amarla Boutique Hotel, an adults-only establishment. Despite the excellent service, we were somewhat disappointed given the price. While the rooms were comfortable, local art was exceptional, and breakfast was superb, we had to disable the overpowering automatic scent spray in our room due to it causing Dalene headaches. Plus, the rooftop pool lacked shade, which limited our enjoyment. Nevertheless, the restaurant was exceptional with high-quality dishes.
Amarla Boutique Hotel Check Rates and Availability: Expedia | Booking.com
Other Recommended Hotels:
- American Trade Hotel – Centrally located in Casco Viejo on Plaza Herrera, this beautifully restored colonial building is highly regarded.
- Tántalo Hotel – A popular budget-friendly option boasting a great location and excellent rooftop bar.
Where to Dine in Panama City
There are countless top-notch restaurants in Panama City catering to a variety of tastes.
Here are a few restaurants we recommend visiting in Panama City:
- Super Gourmet Restaurant – An ideal spot for a morning smoothie and healthy snacks, featuring a friendly staff that enhances the experience.
- Mahalo Cocina y Jardin – We dined here multiple times for lunch, enjoying the serene garden setting and diverse menu options, including fresh juices.
- La Pulperia – A trendy hotspot with a wide-ranging menu, particularly known for its cocktails. Make sure to arrive early as it can get crowded!
- La Rana Dorada Casco – A brewpub in the heart of Casco Viejo, offering solid food along with excellent craft beer.
- Lula Casco – Adorable Mediterranean restaurant near Plaza Francia, where we enjoyed sharing a hummus plate and a few other mezze dishes.
