This article was first published in 2018 but has been updated as of November 2021.
This is a special guest post by my friend Holly Star, who, along with her husband, runs Michel’angelo Capri. Both of them are remarkable individuals who have truly opened my eyes to the vibrant essence of this island nestled in the stunning Bay of Naples.
A Brief Background – How Did an Australian End Up Living on the Island of Capri?
In April 2013, I embarked on a solo journey from Australia for a 6-week vacation in Italy, with no set plans. Having traveled to Italy several times before, I was eager to explore spontaneously this time. Armed with only basic Italian skills and the help of Google Translate and a couple of language apps, I was ready to embrace Italy’s rich culture, history, fashion, and, of course, its food.
Starting in Milan, I made my way to Lake Como and Rimini before spontaneously hopping on a train to Naples, which eventually led me to the island of Capri. I arrived during aperitivo time, completely unprepared for the glamorous yet somewhat pretentious atmosphere in the iconic Capri Piazza. Here I was, struggling with two large bags and a map, dressed in my travel tracksuit, while the chic evening crowd was adorned in the latest designer fashion.
To cut a long story short, on the second evening of my three-night stay in Capri, the bar manager, Luigi, at the Hotel Luna where I was staying, suggested I have dinner at Ristorante Michel’angelo. That dinner changed my life forever.
It was there that I met Gianluca, my now husband and the owner of Michel’angelo. Despite the language barrier, we both felt an undeniable connection from the moment I walked into the restaurant. Now, almost eight years later, we live year-round on the island, raise our two children, Valentino and Francesca, and run Michel’angelo Capri together, offering cooking classes, food experiences, villa catering, and gourmet picnics.
Adapting to life on a small island after living in a bustling city was challenging, but who wouldn’t love waking up in Capri every day? I feel incredibly fortunate that fate brought me to this beautiful island, where I have found love, built a wonderful family, and created a local business that allows us to interact with many delightful people, all set against a breathtaking natural backdrop.
Low Season in Capri
Capri’s official summer season begins at Easter and wraps up in the last week of October.
The island sees most visitors during the summer months when it buzzes with energy—beach clubs, exclusive shopping, celebrity sightings, superyachts, nightlife, and outdoor dining abound. In July and August, over 20,000 tourists may flock to the island daily. Given that Capri is only slightly over 10 square kilometers in size and has a resident population of approximately 14,000, this influx can feel overwhelming for both travelers and locals alike. Add the summer heat, lengthy queues, and peak hours for day-trippers, and you really need insider knowledge to truly absorb the essence of Capri during these months.
When the low season arrives, locals breathe a sigh of relief; island life slows down, daily routines normalize, and I start seeing familiar faces on the streets again, many of whom I hadn’t seen all summer due to their hectic work schedules.Many employment contracts conclude as hotels, beach clubs, and restaurants close their doors for the season. Local children return to school, and families finally have time to spend together.
Capri has a rich romantic history filled with intellectuals, artists, poets, and writers who frequented the island, often during the low season. It’s no coincidence that they were drawn here; Capri emanates an inspiring and creative energy. When you experience the magic of autumn sunrises and sunsets, there’s no doubt you’ll be filled with the same awe and inspiration.
I will never forget my first winter in Capri. I would rise early to watch the sunrise from Piazzetta della Noci, accompanied by the sounds of roosters crowing, seagulls overhead, the gentle wave of the sea, and a picturesque view of Punta Campanella and the Amalfi Coast. It was enchantingly perfect!
Sunny Winter and Autumn Days
During the low season, days are shorter; the sun rises around 7 AM and sets by 4:30 PM. Imagine sunrise framed by the Faraglioni rocks or watching the sun dip into the shimmering sea from Via Tragara, as the sky transforms into a canvas of orange and pink, or witnessing the moonlight glisten over the night sea. These moments are nothing short of spectacular, especially without the summer crowds. On walks through popular trails like Pizzolungo, Arco Naturale, Villa Lysis, and Villa Jovis, you’ll find locals enjoying the outdoors and basking in the warmth of the winter sun.
There are many amazing hikes in Anacapri as well, including trails through Fortini Coastal Walk, the vineyard-lined Via Migliera leading to breathtaking views of the Faraglioni and the Lighthouse, or even from the Monte Solaro Chairlift (which operates on calm days during the low season) passing through the stunning Cetrella Valley.
Michel’angelo prepares picnic lunches featuring fresh local produce. When you order a picnic lunch, we provide personalized maps of scenic locations where you can enjoy your meal surrounded by nature, with only the sounds of birds and the sea for company. For more information about our picnics, click here.
Alternatively, if you prefer a guided walking tour, pick up a picnic lunch from Michel’angelo and pre-arrange a local licensed guide like Capri-native Costantino di Losa to provide an insider hiking experience on the island.
Visit one of Capri’s local beaches. Although beach clubs may be closed, you can enjoy a leisurely stroll (passeggiata) along the beautiful coastline on perfect autumn and winter days, or if you’re feeling adventurous, take a dip in the sea. Gianluca grew up at Marina Piccola, where his mother still resides, so walking along Marina Piccola beach with our children after Sunday lunch at Nonna’s house is a cherished low season activity for us. You could also visit the famous but now-closed beach clubs, La Fontelina and Da Luigi, where nature has reclaimed the space once teeming with VIPs, celebrities, and influencers during the summer months.
Visit museums that are best enjoyed in good weather, such as Villa Lysis, Villa Jovis, Villa San Michele, Certosa di San Giacomo, Villa Damecuta, and the Augustus Gardens. The beauty and history of these remarkable places could fill an entire article. The Capri Tourism website regularly publishes an updated list of museums open each month here.
You can also enjoy a game of tennis at the Capri Tennis Club, where the coaches speak English well. Schedule a lesson or reserve a court with racquets and balls included. For more information, visit their website.
What If It Rains?
Traveling during the low season means that the weather might not always cooperate. While many activities are outdoors, there are still plenty of indoor options. Here are some of my recommendations:
- Take a cooking class, savor a tasting menu, or join us for a wine and cheese pairing at Michel’angelo! We showcase traditional dishes from Gianluca’s family recipes, passed down through generations, using organically grown produce straight from our garden. For more details, click here.
- Indulge in a long lunch or dinner at a local restaurant.
The Capri Tourism website publishes an updated list of restaurants open each month here.
- Explore some indoor museums and churches – the former Cathedral of St Stefano in the Piazza (where Gianluca and I tied the knot), along with the Church of San Michele in Anacapri, where you can admire the stunning ceramic portrayal of Adam & Eve, and the island’s smaller churches. Museums such as the Centro Caprense Ignazio Cerio Museum, dedicated to archaeology and geology, and Casa Rossa in Anacapri, which showcases Roman sculptures found in the Blue Grotto.
The Capri Tourism website provides an updated list of open museums each month here.
- Pamper yourself with beauty treatments at one of the island’s salons. The Gatto Bianco Spa and Wellness Centre is open year-round, but is closed on Sundays, Mondays, and public holidays. For more information about their services, click here.
- Catch a movie in Italian. The Cinema Paradiso in Anacapri posts their movie schedule on their public Facebook page here.
- Bring a good book to enjoy or visit the local bookstore, La Conchiglia (Via le Botteghe 12, Capri), which features a selection of English titles as well as a range of historical publications about the island’s captivating history. For more information, check out the bookstore’s website.
- Join a yoga, pilates, or boxing class at one of the island’s gyms. For contact details of local gyms, click here.
- Relax at one of the bars in the Piazza. Several bars have indoor seating, such as the upstairs area at Piccolo Bar, where you can savor an aperitivo or a coffee/tea with dessert while waiting for the rain to stop.
- Discover pop-up low season activities on the island – from pop-up tea rooms and chess clubs to live jazz and other performances; keep an eye out for flyers on shop/bar windows promoting local events.
Whenever possible, I often visit Augustus Gardens or Marina Piccola beach to connect with Capri’s raw natural beauty. White-capped waves and gusty winds create an awe-inspiring backdrop of the Faraglioni rocks and majestic limestone cliffs. Days like these remind me of the power of nature and the solitude that island life offers. I often imagine what it would be like to reside in Casa Malaparte, one of Capri’s architectural gems situated in a secluded area. Although it’s not open to the public, you can admire it from a distance along the Pizzolungo trail or from a viewpoint at Piazzetta della Noci.
Christmas Lights and New Year’s Eve Festivities
The Christmas lights in Capri are simply enchanting. The entire Piazza, complete with the iconic clock tower, transforms into a winter wonderland. Strolling through the cobbled streets adorned with twinkling lights is magical, especially when sharing a holiday aperitivo at one of the Piazza’s bars, nestled under heaters. The lights typically turn on around 4:30 PM and remain illuminated until 7 AM the next morning, but the grand ceremony to turn on the lights usually occurs in late November/early December. Local residents gather in the Capri Piazza for this announcement, often accompanied by entertainment featuring folk bands performing the Tarantella and singing traditional songs.
Capri also hosts a Christmas market where locals showcase artisan homemade goods—from exquisite handmade decorations to handcrafted wooden gifts and dolls.
While the low season in Capri is generally quiet, the island bursts back to life from Christmas through New Year’s. Some shops and restaurants reopen for the holidays. The Piazza fills with locals and tourists alike, all making their New Year resolutions as the clock strikes midnight amidst fireworks and live music on New Year’s Eve.
Typically, restaurants offer a fixed menu for New Year’s Eve dinner.
After your New Year’s Eve dinner, head to the Piazza for the countdown or directly to Taverna Anema e Core, the island’s famed live music tavern, where Gianluigi Lembo and the Anema e Core band will keep the party going until the early morning hours. For more information on Taverna Anema e Core, click here.
The island also hosts the annual Capri Hollywood Film Festival from December 26 to January 2. While many of the main events are private, there is typically a public program featuring free film screenings at Cinema Paradiso in Anacapri and the Cinema Internationale in Capri. For details, click here.
Dining and Nightlife
Throughout the day and early evening, there are always one or two bars open in the Piazza. In the low season, they tend to close earlier (weekdays around 8:30-9 PM, and weekends 10-11 PM), but actual hours can vary depending on customer traffic. Start your day at Da Alberto or Piccolo Bar with a breakfast of freshly made cornetti and coffee. If you prefer a sit-down meal, you’ll pay a bit more for table service. Otherwise, you can enjoy your meal at the bar like a local or take it to go. Don’t forget to return to the Piazza for an aperitivo before dinner!
For lunch and dinner, you might find yourself at one of only a few occupied tables, particularly on weekdays or rainy days when locals often retreat into their homes. Take the opportunity to chat with restaurant owners and staff; they are always eager to engage, especially with visitors who dare to come to Capri in the off-season! An updated list of restaurants open on the island can be found on the Tourist Notice Board and is published online.
Shopping
Most exclusive boutiques and shops, especially along the famed shopping street Via Camerelle, are likely to be closed during the low season. However, essential local stores, such as supermarkets and pharmacies, remain open, along with a few local clothing and gift shops. Keep in mind that most stores close on Sundays and during the afternoon (often referred to as sonnellino time!).
Nevertheless, you may spot some local artisans open, especially on sunny days. I enjoy strolling past Antonio Palomba’s art gallery on Via Padre Reginaldo Giuliani 6 and watching him create beautiful paintings.
Additional Tips
- The tourist information board is located in an office beneath the famous clock tower in the Piazza. When it’s closed, the notice board outside the office provides updates on open restaurants and accommodations.
- January (after the New Year festivities) and February are the quietest months to visit Capri. During these months, many locals also travel for vacation before the busy summer season ramps up. Expect construction work to take place as shops, hotels, and businesses undertake renovations.
- Travel flexibility is key—don’t plan to leave Capri on the same day as an international flight. Be prepared for unpredictable weather while planning your itinerary, as it’s essential when visiting an island.
- Dress appropriately for the season—scarves, coats, and winter essentials are recommended. While you might be lucky enough to experience sunny days, the coastal breeze can be chilly, especially in the shade or during the evening and early morning.
- Do not assume that residents speak perfect English. You may need your Google Translate app, but locals are always eager to assist you.
- Before visiting Capri in the low season, follow our Instagram stories to get a glimpse of our life here on the island. Find us at @michelangelo_capri. If you happen to be on the island, feel free to reach out; we’d be delighted to chat and provide more information.
Accommodation
There are very few hotels open during the low season. Hotel Canasta is a beautiful 4-star hotel that remains open longer than most others on the island, along with Hotel Gatto Bianco and La Reginella. Hotel 4 Stagioni, a quaint 1-star establishment, operates year-round, as its name suggests. You can find hotel information on various booking websites.
Additionally, several B&Bs, such as Il Tramonto B&B in Anacapri, are open all year, along with numerous Airbnbs. Many options are available at a fraction of summer rental prices, but it’s crucial to choose accommodations suited to your needs during the low season. If the weather takes a turn, make sure your accommodation is a comfortable place to spend time indoors.
Have you ever considered traveling with family or friends and renting a stunning villa? There are many available at lower costs during the off-season. Experience the beauty of the island in luxury. Michel’angelo Capri also offers catering at your villa and can organize cooking classes and food experiences on-site. Contact us for further details.
Some Tips for Low Season Accommodation:
- Ensure your accommodation is winter-ready. Many rental properties are designed for summer, so inquire whether the property has heating, a TV, Wi-Fi, kitchen facilities, a sun-facing aspect, and a terrace or view.
- Low season also means many local businesses and residences are undergoing maintenance in preparation for summer. Be sure to ask if there are any construction projects in the vicinity during your stay, especially if you plan to sleep in.
The Capri Tourism website publishes a list of open accommodations at the start of each month here.
Getting to Capri During the Low Season
In the off-season, you can take a ferry from either Naples or Sorrento.
Naples has two ferry ports: Molo Beverello, where high-speed ferries depart (50 mins to Capri), and Calata Porta di Massa, where slow ferries (car ferries) set off (1-1.25 hours to Capri). In rough seas or strong winds, slow ferries are more likely to run than high-speed ferries. It’s rare, but during extremely poor weather, ferries may get canceled, causing significant delays in travel to and from the island.
If you travel from Sorrento, the journey is shorter (20 mins on a fast ferry or 30 minutes on a slow ferry). For those sensitive to sea conditions, I suggest waiting for a calm autumn day to travel or opting for the shorter voyage from Sorrento aboard the slower ferries.
The Amalfi Coast ferry service typically ceases operations in early November and resumes just before Easter. You can access the ferry timetable here. In the event of rough seas, check directly with the ferry provider for any schedule changes.
Can’t Make It to Capri?
As much as we wish we could host you all on the island, if you can’t visit in person, we can bring a piece of Capri to you! Join us for a virtual cooking class from our Caprese kitchen, and we can send you our delicious range of organic pomodorini sauces, sott’olio vegetables, and extra virgin olive oils, ensuring your home-cooked meals will taste and smell like Capri!
Looking for the perfect Christmas gift? Our gourmet Michel’angelo products, artisan dried pasta, Michel’angelo wine, and sustainable gift packs are ideal for Capri enthusiasts and can be shipped worldwide. Alternatively, consider gifting a food experience with our digital gift vouchers for Michel’angelo.
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Ci vediamo presto!
Holly & Gianluca
Michel’angelo Capri
*Please note that the events and activities described in this article may be affected by COVID restrictions or green pass requirements. For the most up-to-date information on COVID policies in Capri, please reach out to Capri Tourism.
