Lunigiana in Italy is a historical region nestled between northern Tuscany, western Emilia Romagna, and eastern Liguria. This region, largely underrated and untouched by mass tourism, has its roots in Latin as Lunensis Ager, and is one of our favorite spots in Tuscany. Stretching from the Tosco-Emiliano Apennines to the Mediterranean Sea, Lunigiana follows the course of the Magra River.
The name Lunigiana likely stems from the ancient inhabitants of Luni, who had a deep devotion to the myth of the Moon, known as Lunae in Latin. This connection is why we often refer to Lunigiana as the Valley of the Moon.
Luni was a significant city during the era of the Roman Empire. It was established in 177 BC, although others inhabited the area long before the Romans arrived.
Where is Lunigiana, Italy?
Today, most of Lunigiana is part of Tuscany, with some regions extending into Liguria. As illustrated in the map below, this territory largely falls within the province of Massa Carrara.
Historically, Lunigiana stretched nearly to Lucca, including the coastal regions that are now home to Forte dei Marmi and Pietrasanta.
It is conveniently located near La Spezia and the Cinque Terre, as well as well-known Tuscan cities like Pisa and Lucca. This makes Lunigiana an excellent choice for a vacation in a serene, natural setting while still being close to must-visit destinations. Even Milan is just a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Pontremoli, the main town in Lunigiana.
How to Reach Lunigiana, Italy
The A15 highway runs through the Lunigiana region, allowing easy access from both the north and south. The two key exits for this highway are Aulla and Pontremoli. From there, winding minor roads lead to the charming small towns and secluded corners of the area.
History of Lunigiana
The Prehistoric Era
Lunigiana boasts a rich history dating back to prehistoric times. The enigmatic Stele Statues serve as evidence of this ancient past. These anthropomorphic stone sculptures, originating from the fourth to first millennium B.C., have unclear purposes. You can admire these intriguing statues at the Museum of Statue Stele, located within the Castello del Piagnaro in Pontremoli.
The Liguri Apuani and the Roman Empire
The Liguri Apuani were the original inhabitants of Lunigiana until the Romans arrived in the second century BC. This fierce and valiant tribe successfully repelled Roman troops multiple times before ultimately succumbing. To curb further uprisings, the Romans deported them to southern Italy, in what is now Campania.
The Disputes During the Middle Ages
Following the fall of the Western Roman Empire in 460 CE, Lunigiana entered a period of chaos marked by conflicts and invasions from various groups, including the Byzantines, Lombards, and later the Franks.
During the Middle Ages, the diocese of Luni possessed all the historic territory, which included the current Versilia coast and the port of La Spezia, close to the renowned Cinque Terre.
During this period, the Via Francigena was established. This important route stretched across Tuscany from north to south, serving as both a pilgrimage path and a military connection between Northern Europe and the Mediterranean. The Via Francigena linked Canterbury to Rome, traversing France, Switzerland, and Italy for a distance of 1,600 km (994 miles).
Today, the Via Francigena is gaining popularity among hikers looking for an alternative to the more famous and crowded Camino de Santiago in Spain. In Lunigiana, there are three stages of the Via Francigena: starting from the Cisa Pass to Pontremoli, then continuing from Pontremoli to Aulla, and finally from Aulla to Carrara and the coast.
The Kingdom of the Malaspina Family
Around the year 1000, the Obertenghi, a dynasty of Lombard origin, established its noble line in Lunigiana. Following them came the Malaspina family. This family and their descendants ruled the territory for nearly two centuries, during which significant events, battles, family feuds, and legends worthy of a Game of Thrones episode unfolded in Lunigiana.
Familial relations can be complicated, particularly when heirs vie for power. The Malaspina family divided their lands into two branches: Spino Fiorito (Blooming Thorn) and Spino Secco (Dry Thorn). Rivalries within the family led to the fortification of many villages and the construction of numerous castles, many of which still stand today. Pontremoli, an important trading hub at the time, remained the only independent town amidst the ongoing disputes.
After decades of conflict, the Malaspina family and the count-bishop of Luni signed a peace treaty in 1306 at Castelnuovo Magra. Legend suggests that Dante Alighieri, the famed poet who was exiled from Florence in the early 14th century, represented the Malaspina family as their attorney in this agreement.
As the Malaspina rule declined, Lunigiana became the focus of interest for major Italian powers such as Florence, Genoa, and Milan.
In 1797, Napoleon abolished the feudal system, but the true administrative division of Italy didn’t occur until the unification in 1861. Today, the former boundaries of historical Lunigiana have been redefined into two regions: Tuscany and Liguria.
Lunigiana and The Divine Comedy, Purgatory, Canto VIII, 115-120
Dante Alighieri, the father of the Italian language, makes note of the Malaspinas in his masterpiece, the Divine Comedy. He likely visited Lunigiana in April 1306, invited by Franceschino Malaspina, Marquis of Mulazzo, in an attempt to resolve the longstanding disputes between the Malaspina family and the bishops of Luni.
In Canto VIII of Purgatorio, verses 115-120 detail Corrado Malaspina, son of Federico I Malaspina, Marquis of Villafranca, who finds himself in anti-purgatory to atone for loving his family excessively.
Se novella vera di Val di Magra, o di parte vicina, sai, dillo a me, che già grande là era. Chiamato fui Corrado Malaspina; non son l’Antico, ma di lui discesi. a’ miei portai l’amor che qui raffina."
…“if some true intelligence Of Valdimagra or its neighborhood Thou knowest, tell it me, who once was great there. Corrado Malaspina was I called; I'm not the elder, but from him descended; To mine I bore the love which here refineth."
Things to Do in Lunigiana, Italy
Now that we’ve explored a bit of Lunigiana’s lesser-known history, let’s focus on why you should visit this remarkable region.
The Most Charming Hamlets to Explore
Lunigiana’s territory is primarily mountainous, dotted with narrow valleys. Scattered throughout are quaint villages, and exploring them all can be quite time-consuming. Some hamlets are easily accessible from major roads, while others require careful navigation along narrow mountain paths. Here are my top recommendations for visits: Pontremoli, Bagnone, Fivizzano, Fosdinovo, and Filetto di Villafranca.
Castles
Lunigiana is famously referred to as the land of a hundred castles. The Lombards and, later, the Malaspina family constructed at least 160 castles throughout the ages. While many have fallen into ruins or been entirely destroyed, a number remain well-preserved and welcome visitors. Notable examples include Malgrate Castle, Piagnaro Castle in Pontremoli, Aquila Castle in Gragnola, Malaspina Castle in Fosdinovo, Verrucola Castle in Fivizzano, Brunella Fortress in Aulla, and Castiglione del Terziere Castle.
Culture and Churches
If you have an interest in history, Lunigiana hosts several fascinating museums, such as the Pontremoli Stele Statue Museum, the Lunigiana Ethnographic Museum, and the San Caprasio Museum. You can also step back in time by visiting the archaeological area and amphitheater of Luni.
Lunigiana is rich with medieval parish churches. Here are a few of my top picks: Pieve di Santo Stefano di Sorano in Filattiera, Pieve di San Paolo in Vendasio, Pieve dei Santi Cornelio e Cipriano in Codiponte, Pieve of Montedivalli, and Pieve di Sant’Andrea in Sarzana.
Nature and Outdoor Activities
If you’re looking for relaxation, Lunigiana is the perfect destination. Families operating holiday homes and agriturismos warmly welcome visitors with a friendly Benvenuti. Experience the simplicity of rural life, just as the locals do.
For mountain enthusiasts, winter brings opportunities for skiing at the Zum Zeri Ski Slopes. In the spring and summer, enjoy hiking in the national park of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennine.
Another engaging activity, especially for families, is the Cultural Park of the Caves of Equi Terme.
Where to Sleep and Eat in Lunigiana, Italy
Here are three top recommendations for accommodations in Lunigiana:
- Agriturismo Montagna Verde, located in Apella, Licciana Nardi. This charming, restored village features an Albergo Diffuso concept. You will be welcomed by the Maffei family—Mario, Barbara, Luca, and the entire staff—whose warmth and professionalism make this place truly special. Their rooms are spread across the village’s narrow alleys, situated in what were once ancient medieval homes. If you enjoy early mornings, take a stroll outside and you might encounter Mr. Maffei watering his garden or a flock of sheep grazing. The 1,000-year-old tower houses a fantastic restaurant. Every dish on the menu is made from locally sourced ingredients from their own farm. Be sure to try the Agnello di Zeri if you love meat—you won’t regret it!
- Agriturismo Casa Turchetti in Comano. Built atop the ruins of a medieval fortification, the Boschetti family has recently renovated this property to provide modern comforts. With only four rooms and two apartments, this small agriturismo in the ancient village of Cattognano boasts friendly staff, a lovely pool with mountain views, and a terrace restaurant serving delicious local specialties.
- Agriturismo B&B Luna di Quarrazzana in Fivizzano. Welcome to Ilaria, Stefano, and Benny the Cat, who are ready to greet you at their charming agriturismo in Quarrazzana. Relax beneath the plum trees or cool off in the pool overlooking the village rooftops. Start your day with homemade bread and jams at breakfast. In the evening, don’t miss Ilaria’s specialties, following her grandmother’s cherished recipes.
Further Readings about Lunigiana
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