Autumn in France is wonderfully unpredictable. Each region offers its own distinct character, and every month brings a different experience—comparing the end of September to early December is impossible! Let’s explore the beauty of fall in France, a season I cherish deeply despite its variations.
As summers grow hotter in France, we eagerly embrace the arrival of fall.
In Eastern France, where I reside, autumn is vibrant, with brilliant red leaves and clear skies, occasionally sprinkled with snow. If I drive a few hours south, I might find myself relaxing on the beach, while heading north could necessitate an umbrella during my strolls through fallen leaves.
One undeniable aspect of autumn in France is its stunning beauty.
France’s medieval villages shine in autumn, with rustic vines climbing their stone walls. I captured this in Oingt during October ©OffbeatFrance/Anne Sterck
So, where is the best place to experience fall in France?
The answer is subjective. Bring your sense of adventure, dress in layers, and be prepared for anything as you explore one of the year’s most breathtaking—and unpredictable—seasons.
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With so many attractions and activities during the autumn months in France, your biggest challenge will be deciding where to go.
To make your decision easier, I’ll divide this article into sections: where to go in France during fall, activities to enjoy in autumn, and essential tips for traveling throughout the country.
HOW DO YOU SAY ‘AUTUMN’ IN FRENCH?
It’s simple:
The word is automne, pronounced oh-TON. To refer to ‘the’ autumn, add an ‘L’ and an apostrophe: l’automne.
12 Must-Visit Places in France During Fall
These suggestions may be influenced by my personal preferences, but if you follow my recommendations, you’re likely to enjoy your time.
1. Alsace and Its Wine Routes
Alsace is a delightful blend of medieval villages, vineyards, and forests that beautifully transform in the fall. The colors of the half-timbered houses in towns like Strasbourg and Colmar become even more vivid, and the vineyards take on a stunning, rich gold. The Alsace Wine Route is especially enchanting this time of year for enthusiasts of the region’s renowned Rieslings and Gewürztraminer wines.
In fact, the entire Grand Est region takes pride in its breathtaking autumn foliage.
2. Burgundy – Another Wine Wonderland!
In France, fall is synonymous with wine harvesting.
If you’re searching for deep red wines and lush vineyards, Burgundy should be on your itinerary. Harvest season is in full swing, and the hilly vineyards are more picturesque now than at any other time of year. Make sure to stop by Beaune to explore the legendary Hospices de Beaune or visit Dijon for its culinary delights and mustard tastings.
The Hôtel-Dieu Hospices de Beaune: a historic 15th-century hospital transformed into a museum—the heart of Burgundy’s famed wine auction.
3. Bordeaux – Yes, More Wine!
Bordeaux shines brightest in the fall. The surrounding vineyards are in full bloom, highlighted by the annual Bordeaux Wine Festival. Even if you aren’t a wine connoisseur, Bordeaux offers a variety of activities to enjoy.
Autumn also presents a perfect opportunity to visit the coast and admire the Dune of Pilat, Europe’s tallest sand dune, while indulging in seasonal seafood from local villages. This is undoubtedly one of my favorite autumn activities in France.
If you have extra time, continue south to the Basque Country, starting with Bayonne and concluding in Saint-Jean-de-Luz—not to mention the delightful inland areas!
Bordeaux vineyards in autumn at Château Les Carmes, Haut-Brion ©Teddy Verneuil
4. Loire Valley and Its Majestic Châteaux
Autumn is the perfect time to explore the châteaux in the Loire Valley, with fewer crowds than in summer, and temperatures that are pleasantly mild. The landscape is blanketed in vibrant oranges, reds, and yellows.
Be sure to visit those with stunning gardens, such as the meticulously arranged geometric gardens of Villandry, the grandeur of Chambord, or the elegant beauty of Chenonceau. And yes, there’s wine here too!
For a truly unforgettable experience, consider booking a hot air balloon ride to take in this breathtaking view from above.
5. Provence and the French Riviera for Sun and Warmth
Absolutely! I find Provence to be overwhelmingly hot in summer (though many may disagree), but when fall arrives, I am eager to explore every charming corner on those refreshingly cooler days.
From the quaint villages of Luberon, like Lacoste, to the celebrated “big five” hilltop hamlets on the list of the most beautiful villages in France, the atmosphere becomes lighter, with delightful autumn aromas enhancing the experience – and the vineyards showcase their bounty as well.
6. Normandy for its Rich History
In autumn, Normandy is known for its apple harvest—make sure to savor dishes infused with apples or try Calvados, the distinguished local apple brandy.
As the summer crowds retreat back to Paris, you can now enjoy peaceful explorations in this region. Visit the historic Mont Saint-Michel or the D-Day beaches for a leisurely day of sightseeing.
While it can be a bit chilly in late fall on the D-Day beaches, the stunning light at Omaha Beach makes it worthwhile! ©OffbeatFrance
7. Paris – Always a Must-Visit
Of course! I didn’t mention it first to allow you to discover some lesser-known regions before mentioning Paris, which is often at the heart of autumn trips to France.
I especially love fall in Paris as the city bursts with energy, and the weather is perfect for walking tours—consider a food tour or a guided exploration of French Revolution sites to deepen your understanding of our culture and history.
With locals returning from summer holidays, the cultural scene is in full swing. The gardens are stunning, adorned with golden hues, and Parisian cafés are bustling with people savoring coffee and, when it gets cooler, sipping on chocolat chaud.
8. Corsica – A Unique Experience
Corsica is a favorite among French holidaymakers, so summer can be crowded, particularly on its narrow roads, with the potential for forest fires in some areas. However, for me, autumn is the ideal time to visit Corsica.
The weather remains mild—though not quite suitable for swimming—but perfect for hiking and exploring coastal towns like Bonifacio or Ajaccio, as well as more secluded villages.
9. The Dordogne – Rich Villages, Castles, and Cuisine
In the Dordogne, autumn often brings warm weather (especially in the earlier weeks) and quiet, idyllic surroundings.
Though the weather can turn rainy or foggy (which can happen anywhere in France), it’s a great time to experience the regional offerings. Market stalls burst with walnuts and truffles, and the charm of the region’s medieval towns blends beautifully with the backdrop of golden leaves.
Beynac Fortress bathed in autumn light ©Dan Courtice/Sarlat Tourisme
10. Ardèche – For the Adventurous Spirit
Autumn is perfectly timed for exploring Ardèche, a remote area in central France that lacks a train station. This is chestnut season, and everything revolves around it—restaurants feature entire menus centered on chestnuts, with many locals heading into the woods to gather them.
Top: Collecting chestnuts in the fall in Ardèche. Above: Roasting chestnuts in barrels ©OffbeatFrance
11. The French Alps – For Mountain Enthusiasts
If you appreciate mountain vistas, fall in the French Alps is simply breathtaking, especially in towns like Annecy nestled in the foothills.
However, be mindful of off-season resort closures, as many places lock their doors in November between the summer-fall season and the winter ski season. But if you’re after crystal-clear lakes and biking trails before snow falls, come and bask in the stunning Alpine views.
By September, expect snow in the Alps ©OffbeatFrance
12. Lyon – A City of Culture and Cuisine
Lastly, I recommend Lyon—my favorite city, the place I frequent when I crave a day away from my rural surroundings. In autumn, Lyon offers vibrant culture, scenic views along its two rivers, and plenty of activities as people return energized from their vacations.
Even in a fog, the beauty of this city continues to shine…
Lyon enveloped in autumn fog ©OffbeatFrance
If you’re inclined to venture beyond the city, numerous short day trips from Lyon will draw you into the heart of the French countryside.
Vineyards of Beaujolais in the fall
Top Activities to Enjoy in Autumn in France
Having explored some of the best places to visit in France during autumn, let’s also consider what activities you can enjoy during this season.
Attend Festivals and Wine Events
It’s only natural given the regions I highlighted above!
This is the time of year for grape harvesting, or vendanges, which you can witness in Burgundy, Bordeaux, Alsace, the Loire Valley, and beyond.
Experience unique celebrations throughout our wine regions, sample the year’s harvest, and tour local vineyards. Notable events include:
If you find yourself near Lyon around Beaujolais Nouveau time, which occurs on the third Thursday of November, visit the picturesque villages surrounding the Pierres Dorées vineyards or Villefranche-sur-Saône. As the event approaches, festivities spring up throughout the Beaujolais region.
PRO TIP: A charming way to explore vineyards in the fall is by bike. Look for rentals in towns near the major vineyards. The roads are generally not very hilly (you can even rent an electric bike), and traffic on country roads is minimal.
You’ll discover ample information at Beaujolais Days, though note that the English translation may not always function correctly. Don’t hesitate to use Google Translate to get the gist of the site!
Enjoy the Autumn Foliage
Just like many regions worldwide, admiring the fall colors is a major attraction from late September to early November. If you draw an imaginary line horizontally across France, you’ll find beautiful fall foliage in areas above that line, including Alsace, Normandy, the Loire Valley, and Paris’s parks and gardens.
While you may spot fall colors in Southern France, their abundance is less likely. Wherever you travel in France in October, if trees and vines are present, you’ll witness the transformation of leaves.
Savor the Seasonal Flavors
Fall is a food lover’s dream!
This is when you can indulge in heartwarming dishes you wouldn’t typically enjoy in the summer, such as cassoulet, coq au vin, and even rich cheese dishes as temperatures cool. I particularly recommend trying the local specialty, pumpkin au gratin, where I live.
My neighbor Patrick harvesting pumpkins next door. We receive one from him every year ©OffbeatFrance
You can indulge in seasonal specialties like truffles in the Dordogne and Provence, various gourds, hearty stews, potato dishes, and local cheeses (like that delightful Alpine cheese board).
Autumn marks the season of culinary delights. In my village of Seyssel in eastern France, there’s a significant festival and flea market every November. Here, local sausages called diots are cooked in wine ©OffbeatFrance
This season also marks the start of hunting, which means game dishes pop up on many menus. There’s considerable hunting throughout France (perhaps too much for my tastes), with the season usually commencing by the end of September.
Additionally, fall is an optimal time for seafood—our mother’s saying holds true that seafood is safe to eat in all months with the letter “R”: September, October, November, and December are all included.
Join a Cooking Class or Wine Tasting
Autumn is an excellent time for cooking classes—who enjoys cooking in summer’s heat?
In Paris, you can learn to bake the ideal macaron or make gorgeous croissants with a French chef. If you’re in Lyon, seize the chance to understand our wines.
Local markets are brimming with seasonal produce, featuring autumn specialties unavailable during the rest of the year.
Live Like Royalty
Autumn is the perfect time to put on your royal robes and visit a château—for instance, the Loire Valley offers exceptional options, as do various other regions in France.
With over 45,000 châteaux in France, be aware that many are private and off-limits to visitors.
Here is a selection of some well-known châteaux that you can visit.
The Domaine de Pizay is stunning in September, still feeling a part of summer while the light begins to shift ©OffbeatFrance/Anne Sterck
Follow a Thematic Route
France is rich with themed routes that highlight our regional identities, preserve our cultural heritage, educate us, and allow exploration of local foods and wines.
Autumn is a fantastic time to discover these routes, with fewer tourists than in summer and an abundance of seasonal products emerging in the fall.
Some routes to consider include:
- Heritage paths (exploring Roman ruins or Romanesque and Renaissance routes)
- Religious routes (like St. James Way)
- Wine routes (such as the Route du Bugey near my home or the famous Burgundy grand cru route or Alsace wine routes)
- Château routes (throughout the Loire Valley and beyond)
- Food routes (apples in Normandy or cheese in my region between the Alps and the Jura mountains)
- Historical routes (covering World Wars I and II, or the French Revolution)
- Art routes (like Impressionism in Rouen or Van Gogh in Provence)…
And that’s just the beginning! Once you select a region, take some time to research (or contact the local tourist office) to discover any unique specialties or routes worth exploring during your visit.
Hit the Trails
Literally.
Fall is a lovely season for hiking in France, especially in mountainous or wooded areas (though avoid climbing too high later in the season or you might encounter snow).
Consider trails in the Pyrenees or around Mont Blanc, where stunning lakes lie amidst the foliage that turns auburn at lower altitudes, or explore vineyards with leaves transitioning from yellow to ochre to deep red during autumn. AllTrails provides comprehensive information for hiking in France.
Forests are, of course, perfect for fall hikes—if you’re near Paris and have access to a car, visit the Forest of Fontainebleau, but really, any forest will do. Alternatively, enjoy a stroll through the Jardin des Tuileries in the city itself.
What If It Rains…
Rain is a possibility, yet it need not spoil your enjoyment. France retains its charms on rainy days! Cobblestone streets glimmer, light fog may rise from hidden valleys, and mountain peaks can don their early snowfall cloaks. If the temperature isn’t too cold, venture out and bask in the refreshing atmosphere.
However, when colder weather sets in, you may prefer to immerse yourself in all the cultural experiences France has to offer, from museums to wine cellars.
Important Fall Events in France
Knowing key dates in the fall can be helpful, whether you wish to avoid them or participate in local festivities.
Fête des Vendanges (Late September through Late October)
The Fête des Vendanges celebrates the grape harvest. While the most famous celebration takes place in Montmartre with wine tastings, parades, concerts, and fireworks, similar events can be found throughout the country’s wine regions. Contact local tourist offices for exact dates and locations.
Halloween: October 31
This celebration has only gained popularity in the past two decades. I recall my brother organizing a Halloween treasure hunt in our former village, Yvoire, back when it was a novelty that even attracted media attention.
Today, it has become as commercialized as in other countries, with supermarkets stocked full of costumes and an emerging trick-or-treat tradition.
Getting ready for evening trick-or-treaters with the help of my six feline companions ©OffbeatFrance
La Toussaint (All Saints’ Day): November 1
Toussaint is a public holiday in France dedicated to honoring saints and loved ones who have passed away, deeply rooted in our Catholic traditions. This day is observed by visiting cemeteries and placing flowers, particularly chrysanthemums, on graves. It’s a solemn occasion marked by remembrance and reflection.
Armistice Day: November 11
This public holiday marks the end of World War I in 1918, with nationwide ceremonies honoring fallen soldiers. The most significant commemoration occurs at the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, where the President of France lays a wreath at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.
Beaujolais Nouveau Day (Third Thursday in November)
Famous worldwide, this event celebrates the release of the year’s Beaujolais Nouveau wine. Across France, people gather in wine bars and restaurants to enjoy this new vintage, accompanied by festive celebrations and special activities. The Beaujolais region, in particular, boasts a lively atmosphere for this occasion.
Christmas Markets (from Late November Onwards)
Contrary to popular belief, Christmas markets in France don’t begin right around Christmas but often kick off in the last week of November. The spirit of the holiday season fills the air, with abundant decorations, festive cheer, lights, and hot mulled wine to ward off the chill.
Lyon’s Festival of Lights: December 8
This event indicates the transition to winter but is a spectacular annual celebration in Lyon. For four evenings, the city dazzles with a range of lights, showcasing stunning displays against medieval and Renaissance architecture while drawing large crowds. It’s an event I make sure not to miss. Here’s what my latest visit was like.
Travel Tips for Autumn in France
Predicting the weather in France can be daunting, but recent climatic shifts have made it virtually impossible. The only certainties in fall are rust-colored foliage and occasional rain.
Not the most reassuring advice, but I’ve experienced T-shirt weather in February and had to light my fireplace in July.
As I mentioned, expect a wide range of conditions…
Autumn Weather in France
In Northern France, including Paris and Normandy, the onset of autumn brings relatively mild weather, continuing the warmth of late summer. By October, you will likely encounter frequent rain, and as the season progresses, it becomes colder and wetter.
In Eastern France (where I live), the weather is decidedly unpredictable. Ideally, temperatures cool progressively over the weeks. Fog is common, particularly during the night and early morning, with heavier fog appearing in December. We may also experience frost or even snowfall depending on the elevation. Generally, we enjoy fresh, crisp weather.
The mountain behind my home in the fall ©OffbeatFrance/Leyla Alyanak
In Western France, the climate tends to be milder than in the east, though storms from the Atlantic may lead to cool and rainy weather in November.
In Southern France and Provence, September often remains warm, without the oppressive heat of summer. October is delightful, yet November may bring more rainfall—though still less than in other regions.
Lastly, in mountainous areas—the Massif Central, Alps, and Pyrenees—temperatures drop swiftly in autumn, with snowfall at higher altitudes appearing as early as fall begins. By November, snow is common in the mountains as resorts prepare for winter sports.
What to Pack for Fall in France
The same foundation applies in all seasons in France: versatility, adaptability, comfort, and neutral colors. Some essential items are needed every season, such as a universal travel adapter or a good anti-theft bag.
For fall, ensure you have a few specific essentials:
- A good scarf or two—remember, France is the land of scarves, and you can easily buy some here, whether for warmth or decoration, or as practical as a stylish infinity scarf.
- An umbrella, poncho (if you’re hiking), or a waterproof jacket/raincoat.
- Layered clothing that can accommodate shifts from summer to winter conditions, depending on the day and region.
- Footwear with good traction if you’re exploring older cities and picturesque villages (the cobblestones can become slippery when wet).
Before You Go…
Autumn is truly a fantastic time to explore France, often regarded as the best season by many. For those curious about the other seasons, here’s a brief overview of what to expect throughout the year.
If your travels take you to Paris in fall, don’t miss out on these exciting experiences in the French capital!
Wishing you a wonderful autumn!
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