As I set out to visit Castel del Monte in Puglia, I felt a mix of uncertainty and a chill from its stark emptiness. The castle’s geometric design didn’t immediately captivate me, nor was I particularly drawn to its evident popularity. It’s a castle that demands to be seen—boastful and striking, yet distinctly devoid of warmth.
However, I gradually grew fond of it, even with a storm approaching.
The true purpose of the castle remains a mystery. It lacks traditional defensive features like a moat, and there’s no solid evidence to support claims that it served as a hunting lodge. Moreover, its beautiful marble was stolen in the 18th century. Nonetheless, one thing is certain: the castle is hard to overlook as it juts out from the surrounding forest.
We visited on a particularly windy day, with occasional light rain. The storm cleared the air, unveiling the clouds racing above the flat plains below. This was an unexpected delight—you don’t need a ticket to savor the stunning view, best enjoyed during the shoulder seasons or winter months.
After exploring the pentagonal castle, built by Frederick II in 1240, we ventured inside. It’s easy to wander around for an hour, taking in the various rooms that encircle the central courtyard.
Some features particularly caught my attention, like the door frames.
The stone known as Breccia rossa appenninica is used throughout the castle. While its name seems a bit unrefined, like the castle itself, its presence is undeniably noteworthy.
Then there are the columns—quite lovely, indeed.
Initially, I couldn’t see much functional purpose for these columns, positioned in the corners. This seemed odd until I realized they were likely added for reinforcement against new artillery attacks, as cannons were capable of easily knocking out corners.
And as I continued upward, the previously ominous structure lost its chill:
Despite its initially cold and empty feel, I found delight in exploring this UNESCO World Heritage site. There’s even a bar and restaurant nearby, where their playful translations of local dishes into English added to the experience.
Location Map of Castel del Monte
Travel Snippets for a Visit to Castel del Monte
There are countless reasons to visit: the views are nothing short of breathtaking! While it’s common to enjoy expansive vistas from castles, each perspective here is unique.
Best Time to Visit: Spring or Fall. The summer heat can be intense, but the Adriatic coast is just a short drive away.
Region: Puglia—Map & Guide
Days: You can easily visit Castel del Monte as a day trip from Trani (recommended because it’s near the seaside) or Ruvo di Puglia.
Accommodation in Trani
Accommodation in Ruvo di Puglia
For a pleasant stay in the countryside near Castel del Monte, consider Posta Santa Croce (Review). It’s where we stayed during our visit.
Local Wine: The region is celebrated for its Nero di Troia red wine.
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