The temperature was a pleasant 55 degrees Fahrenheit, with some clouds in the sky, as I made my way to Centro Storico. I was excited to meet my friends, Ann and Raul, for a Christmas dinner together. Many people I’ve talked to are surprised that restaurants remain open on Christmas Day. I’ve learned that the main Christmas meal is traditionally prepared at home on Christmas Eve, often featuring multiple fish dishes and little to no meat, surrounded by family. Typically, the women handle both the cooking and the cleanup after the feast. Given this, dining out on Christmas Day feels like a welcome change.
Another interesting tradition differs from my experiences growing up. When I was a child, our family enjoyed classics like “Rudolf the Red-Nosed Reindeer,” “Scrooge,” and “It’s a Wonderful Life.” In Italy, however, families often gather to watch the movie “Trading Places.” I find this choice quite puzzling. Why do you think that is?
In Italy, the Christmas celebrations kick off on December 6th with St. Nicholas Day, followed by the Virgin Mary’s Feast on the 8th. This is also when locals typically set up their Christmas trees after attending mass. Along with these occasions, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day are important, as well as the vibrant celebrations on New Year’s Eve (Capodanno) and the family meal at Mamma’s on New Year’s Day. The festivities culminate on January 6th with Little Christmas, a day when La Befana, the benevolent witch, flies around delivering candy gifts to children—those who have been naughty even receive candy that looks like coal! Children leave out their shoes or Christmas stockings for her to fill.
Legend has it that La Befana encountered the Three Wise Men on their journey to Bethlehem, bringing gifts of gold, frankincense, and myrrh. Skeptical of their tale about a newborn who would change the world and guide them by a star, she later regretted not joining them. She sought them out but couldn’t find them and instead chose to bless the local children, a tradition she has kept for over 2,000 years.
My town, Chiavari, sparkles with holiday lights throughout the festive season. Isn’t it stunning?
This Christmas, my friends and I enjoyed an exquisite eight-course dinner at Osteria Da Ivo, located in Chiavari’s center. The meal was by reservation only, featuring a fixed menu, and included wine and water. Everything was absolutely delicious.
See the photos below for our culinary adventure. We had two fantastic aperitivo plates, a wonderfully prepared seafood pasta, meat ravioli (which I devoured too quickly for a photo), and a savory beef and potato dish, finished off with a delightful fried dessert. Although I might have forgotten one course, we spent three hours relishing good wine and laughter, surrounded by a joyful atmosphere. It was a beautiful experience filled with delightful food and wonderful company.
After saying our goodbyes, the Christmas lights lit up the town, marking a magical end to our evening. Check out the images above and below showcasing the beauty of Chiavari, where even the ground shimmered after the recent rain.
As I walked toward the sea, the season’s lightness washed over me—a feeling that was rare in my childhood. Regardless of one’s faith, there’s something remarkable about the seasonal light and its absence. The waves, the trees, the serene crowd, and the fullness in our hearts combined to create a special peace.
Despite the harsh realities of two active wars not far from Italy and the suffering faced by many worldwide, I still hold onto hope for peace in our future. Even as tragedy touches us and the lives of those we don’t know, I remain hopeful.
Let there be peace on Earth, and let it begin with me.
Enjoy your time with family and friends. Take a moment to appreciate the quiet and the music around you. Embrace everyone warmly; be like the Italians, who greet with kisses and hugs.
Buon Natale, Buon Anno, Buone Feste. Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, and Happy Holidays.
See the photos below. I’m still facing some computer issues, but they’ll showcase the delicious food from dinner and my lovely walk home along the sea.
A dopo!
