Transcript with Show Notes Embedded:

Rhonda Vilardo: Every day offers a new experience, and each meal brings a delightful lunch and dinner. It’s a fantastic vacation for those who prefer not to stress over reservations, itineraries, or planning. You simply arrive at our scheduled times, and we ensure a truly enjoyable experience.

Kathy McCabe: This is Kathy McCabe, and welcome to the Dream of Italy podcast! You may recognize me from the PBS travel series, Dream of Italy, as well as our award-winning website and publication. Join me as we delve into the sights and sounds of beautiful Italy—from the enchanting canals of Venice to the charming piazzas of Puglia, from the glamorous fashion houses of Milan to the picturesque vineyards of Tuscany. Buckle up; we’re in for a fantastic journey. Andiamo!

[00:52]

I’m excited to be here today with Rhonda Vilardo. I usually don’t feel envious of other people’s jobs, but Rhonda gets to spend time in one of my favorite places on earth—Modena, located in Emilia-Romagna. She describes herself as the grateful owner of Italian Culinary Adventures, which offers boutique tours of Emilia-Romagna, a region very dear to my heart. I’m also thankful to Rhonda, as she is one of the sponsors for Season 3 of our TV show. Two episodes feature Modena, with our friends, Massimo Bottura and Lara Gilmore. Welcome to the podcast, Rhonda!

Rhonda: Thank you so much, Kathy.

Kathy: Let’s jump right into one of my favorite topics—Modena. How did you discover Modena and become enchanted with it, as I am?

Rhonda: Well, I have a friend who is an Italian man raised in a village near Modena. He married an American woman, and that’s how I got to know him. He splits his time between Seattle and Spilamberto, where he has a house. I learned about Modena through him.

Kathy: Oh, that’s wonderful! What captivates you about Modena?

Rhonda: Oh my gosh, where do I start? Modena is perfectly sized, making it easy to navigate. It boasts an incredible history and is ideally situated within Emilia-Romagna. It’s the birthplace of balsamic vinegar and close to areas renowned for Prosciutto di Parma and Prosciutto di Modena. Modena isn’t just a small village, which has its own charm, but it’s also a cosmopolitan city. It has a military academy, a convenient train station, and lovely hotels. If I were to buy property in Italy, Modena would be a top choice. By the way, where would you consider living in Italy?

Kathy: That’s the tricky part! It’s hard for me to decide, which is why I don’t live there.

Rhonda: I completely understand that! Modena has enchanted me too. You mentioned balsamic vinegar, which is a huge part of its fame. Despite visiting Italy for about 30 years, my first trip to Modena was for the TV show to interview Massimo and Lara. What was supposed to be a single episode turned into two, and I’ve returned to Modena multiple times. It’s crossed my mind that it could be an ideal place to live. It’s very civilized and family-friendly—many Italians I know with small children have moved to Modena from Milan. You’re close to larger cities—Milan is about 90 minutes away, and Bologna isn’t far either.

Rhonda: Even Florence is just an hour and a half away!

Kathy: Exactly! Modena presents a very civilized atmosphere and is surprisingly free of tourists—especially American tourists. You may spot a few Italians visiting, but even when I’ve worked with VisitModena, they aim to attract Americans while still focusing on marketing to locals discovering Modena. It’s truly a special place. You’d think dining in Italy is challenging because every meal is outstanding, but I’d love to hear more about the food experiences you provide your guests through Italian Culinary Adventures.

Rhonda: In addition to various cooking classes, almost all our meals are within a small geographic area. We dine at Massimo Bottura’s Il Cavallino, take a cooking class at Tortellante where our guests learn to make tortellini, and we eat at a restaurant called Amber. It’s interesting—Massimo gifted his nephew, Filippo, one of his sous-chefs, Cecilia, who skillfully uses local traditional ingredients, adding a modern twist. Many of her dishes are often vegan, and her talent is remarkable. We dine there weekly; they teach us to craft cocktails and serve an extraordinary dinner. It’s beyond words!

Kathy: I absolutely need to go! I really want to join one of your adventures. I’m always so busy, but experiencing this firsthand, just living it, would be fantastic.

Rhonda: You know, Kathy, this vacation is perfect for you, as you can simply book your spot and leave everything to us. The entire week is structured, so you only need to be present when we say. Each day brings a new experience, with fantastic lunches and dinners. You’ll enjoy breakfast at the hotel if you want. It’s a perfect getaway for those wanting to avoid reservations and planning processes. You just show up at the designated times, and we provide a truly lovely experience. Our Trip Advisor reviews reflect just that. We focus on taking care of our guests, a value we’ve learned from the Italians.

Kathy: Sometimes, I visit Italy just to be pampered. It truly is a healing and inspiring place. Many guests likely find inspiration during their trip.

Rhonda: Absolutely!

Kathy: Speaking of Massimo and Lara, first off, Il Cavallino is incredible!

Rhonda: It truly is!

Kathy: The decor, that Ferrari red, makes you feel like you’re on vacation. I remember when I went to see the Ferrari movie on Christmas Day—Massimo even made a cameo appearance! Modena is a significant highlight.

Rhonda: We were there while filming!

Kathy: I know several celebrities visited; Patrick Dempsey, for instance, stayed at Casa Maria Luigia, Massimo and Lara’s beautiful country house hotel.

Rhonda: Did the driver stay there too, or off-property?

Kathy: I’m not sure, but he was fantastic! The ambiance at Il Cavallino is delightful—Massimo’s chefs create some of the most innovative dishes you will ever taste.

Rhonda: It serves as our farewell lunch and features an impressive tasting menu paired with wines. The sommelier discusses each wine and how it complements the different courses. It’s undoubtedly one of the week’s most memorable meals.

[09:54]

Kathy: As for Tortellante, I can’t emphasize enough how much I adore Charlie Bottura. He’s refreshingly blunt and honest. For everyone who doesn’t know, he’s Massimo and Lara’s son, who’s on the autism spectrum. They started this nonprofit to teach students valuable skills. Has it changed since my last visit? I heard they now have the bodega.

Rhonda: Yes! I’ve been there, and it’s lovely. Charlie seems to be very hands-on; every time I visit, he’s behind the counter.

Kathy: I need to see him during my next visit. The students are learning to make tortellini from the retired grandmothers of the village.

Rhonda: Yes! It’s such a fulfilling experience for both the nonnas and the students. They teach them traditional skills, which is something they seem to enjoy. The repetitive nature of making tortellini is satisfying for individuals on the spectrum, allowing them to perfect their craft and engage proudly with their creations.

Kathy: I tried my hand at it, and you should have seen how critical Charlie was of my work!

Rhonda: He’s certainly the toughest critic!

Kathy: But, of course, he has high standards—look at his lineage! It’s worth noting that at restaurants in Modena, especially Osteria Francescana, they serve tortellini made at Tortellante. The dish at Franceschetta, with tortellini in three-year-aged Parmigiano Reggiano sauce, is one of the best I’ve ever had! We were fortunate enough to dine at Casa Maria Luigia, where Massimo prepared lunch for us. The light in Modena is simply magical.

[12:40]

Rhonda: I agree! I’m lucky to go in May, June, and then again in September and October, enjoying two seasons’ beauty. In spring, you’re surrounded by blossoms and greenery, while fall brings gorgeous autumnal hues and seasonal mushrooms. Every season is unique, and local chefs adapt their menus accordingly, following the “slow food” philosophy by utilizing fresh, local ingredients.

Kathy: Your tours also visit some of my other favorite spots. What else do you include during the week?

Rhonda: We visit Bologna for a walking tour, and now we’re looking to add a gelato class there. Instead of just a few hours, we plan to spend more time exploring.

Kathy: Are you going to Carpigiani?

Rhonda: Yes! We plan to visit gelato institutes. I filmed an episode in Bologna and went to one of these institutes. It’s extraordinary, and I highly recommend it. Many even take courses to learn how to start a gelateria!

Rhonda: We also dine at a fantastic restaurant called Antica Moka—have you heard of it?

Kathy: Yes! I haven’t had the chance to go, though.

Rhonda: You absolutely have to join our trip. We introduce guests to hidden gems like Antica Moka and Hosteria Giusti, a popular meat market in the heart of Modena. Have you visited yet?

Kathy: No, but I recall having lunch somewhere in September where I enjoyed incredible tagliatelle and ragù!

Rhonda: We walked by there during your visit, but I think it was closed at the time. During my trips to Modena, I’ve discovered Borghi coffee, and I hear it’s exceptional!

Kathy: I’m heading to Italy in a few weeks, starting in Northern Italy. I might stop in Modena just for the coffee!

Rhonda: Well, I must take note of Borghi coffee! Being associated with Italy has turned me into a food and coffee snob. My favorite coffee comes from Siena, which recently started shipping internationally, offering pods as well.

Kathy: What’s the name?

Rhonda: It’s called Fiorella Coffee.

Kathy: I’ll have to give that a try!

Rhonda: If you ever find yourself in Siena, you must grab a cup—it’s incredible! It’s located directly across from Venchi, the famous chocolate place, and right by Piazza del Campo. I can’t stress enough how delicious it is!

Kathy: I had an identity crisis while filming in France because of the poor coffee quality. I drove through the Mont Blanc Tunnel just to indulge in some Italian coffee!

Rhonda: After one visit to Italy, you become accustomed to those flavors. Many people have their lives changed by their experiences—what has surprised your guests throughout your culinary tours?

Rhonda: Many guests express, “I’ve never been here before!” They typically don’t consider Emilia-Romagna a travel destination, but after their week in Modena, they often say, “I want to return.” Modena has a quality that some might dream of for retirement, blending cultural richness without the usual tourist influx.

Kathy: Yes! It’s an exceptional town to explore. Modena is home to Michelin-starred restaurants, Ferrari, Lamborghini, and the rich heritage of balsamic vinegar. I buy so much balsamic from the producers we visit; if I had better Italian, I’d be begging to fill a gallon container! One variety is a breathtakingly delicious 12-year or 25-year balsamic. Its white balsamic works wonderfully in dishes like sashimi or poke, enhancing salad dressings too. It’s the gift I often share with those I host.

Kathy: That’s a thoughtful gift idea that people will surely appreciate. Many are contemplating living in Italy post-COVID, but choosing a location is the most challenging part. It can be paralyzing.

Rhonda: I know what you mean.

Kathy: I love cities but prefer to avoid the crowded spots like Rome or Florence.

Rhonda: Absolutely! And while Florence is magical, the tourist throngs can be overwhelming. Modena offers affordable living options outside the busy city centers. Quality healthcare is available in Northern Italy, and there’s a plethora of cultural events. We often visit the Teatro Comunale for the opera, so residents enjoy the vibrancy of city life without feeling mired in it.

Rhonda: While coordinating our program, I often rent an apartment close to Tortellante. It allows daily runs through a scenic neighborhood. Although it feels like a small town, the historic center is just a 10-minute walk away. It’s such a wonderful area.

[20:48]

Kathy: We both adore it! You’ve been incredibly generous. By the time this episode airs, we’ll have picked a winner for our sweepstakes that allows two individuals to join one of your Culinary Adventures. Could you break down the itinerary for potential guests?

Rhonda: Absolutely! Guests check in on a Sunday and check out the following Saturday morning. We have nearly an entire week together. The program is all-inclusive, covering everything from arrival to departure. Breakfast is included, and we stay at a beautiful hotel just a five-minute walk from the historic center and a short cab ride from the train station. During the week, we’ll have three cooking classes, nightly dinners, and memorable lunches.

Kathy: That sounds incredible!

Rhonda: One of my favorite experiences occurs at Salumeria Giusti. This family-run business, taken over by the Morandi family in the ’80s, maintains a reputation across generations. Their quaint restaurant has only five tables and serves lunch Monday through Friday, which is one of the best meals you can have! A nonna there offers to lead a cooking class, teaching us ten different pasta shapes, largely from recipes passed down from her family. Many locals come here for fresh pasta they can take home for meals.

Kathy: That phenomenal approach captures the essence of authentic Italy!

Rhonda: Exactly! Guests experience walking tours through Modena and Bologna, and we also schedule a wonderful wine tasting at the award-winning Cantina della Volta, famous for its old champagne-style Lambrusco.

Kathy: Sounds divine! It’s perfect with hearty dishes like tagliatelle and ragù.
By the way, have you ever dined at Osteria Francescana?

Rhonda: Unfortunately, I haven’t had the chance yet. I’ve eaten at Franceschetta 58 and Il Cavallino, but not at Francescana.

Kathy: That takes a six-month reservation in advance. It’s a small venue, but they have recently opened a new restaurant called Al Gatto Verde at Casa Maria Luigia, featuring various smoked dishes.

Rhonda: That sounds delicious!

Kathy: I know! You won’t believe how close I came to Massimo Bottura once, almost getting hit by him on his bike!

Rhonda: I had the chance to visit Casa Maria Luigia, and I saw him pass by, but the car he drives is stunning. The property is spectacular; I would love to spend more time there!

Kathy: Massimo has had a profound impact on many lives, including my own—it’s not just about food for him.

Rhonda: He truly is a remarkable individual. When I launched this program post-pandemic, my aim was to take our guests to the Food for Soul project he initiated, but the pandemic forced the kitchen to close. I was thrilled to hear it recently reopened!

Kathy: Yes, indeed! I’m eager to see all they’re doing now.

Rhonda: Massimo and Lara are incredibly community-oriented, and it’s refreshing to witness their dedication. Their motivations inspire people far beyond the kitchen.

Kathy: The work they do extends deeply into the fabric of the community. I’ve aimed to express that Modena is a place rich with history while remaining forward-thinking, similar to Massimo’s approach. His mantra of “looking to the future” offers invaluable lessons in life.

Rhonda: Absolutely!

[26:53]

Kathy: How can listeners find out more about Italian Culinary Adventures? I believe you may have a special offer for Dream of Italy listeners.

Rhonda: Yes! I previously offered a discount to my newsletter subscribers and would be delighted to extend that to your podcast audience—a 20% discount for anyone who mentions they heard this on Dream of Italy. Simply visit www.italianculinaryadventures.com to learn more about our tours!

Kathy: That’s a fantastic deal! (Save 20% when you sign up for a tour and mention “Dream of Italy”)

Rhonda: Thank you! Together with my Italian colleague—who’s in her 20s but possesses an old soul—we work hard to keep our offerings updated. She helps with marketing, nurturing vendor relationships and keeping everything current, especially with all the challenges the past few years have posed.

Kathy: Navigating a new language isn’t easy. It’s lovely to see how forgiving Italians are of language mistakes, welcoming any efforts we make to communicate in their language.

Rhonda: They are kind and patient! If I start to struggle in Italian, they often say, “Just speak English.”

Kathy: Speaking of balsamic vinegar, Francesca, one of the guides from the show, introduced me to the idea of gelato drizzled with balsamic—it’s incredible!

Rhonda: It’s fantastic! Just vanilla ice cream drizzled with the finest balsamic—pure heaven.

[29:20]

Kathy: Now, Rhonda, it’s worth noting my favorite drink is gin and tonic, and I hear Italian artisanal gin is gaining popularity. I’ve heard that you’ve created your own gin!

Rhonda: Yes! It’s wonderful to see the evolution of my business. We’ve developed a product called Royal Edition Gin, infused with wonderful herbs, including elderflower. I partnered with award-winning bartenders at a boutique distillery in Milan, who helped craft a gin that complements the Hugo Spritz—a delightful alternative to the Aperol Spritz!

Kathy: I love gin!

Rhonda: It’s fantastic in a gin and tonic or in a Hugo Spritz! We’re excited to offer batch products and have recipes for cocktails in the making.

Kathy: How awesome is that! It provides a way for people to connect with Italy even from afar. Who designed the label? It’s beautiful.

Rhonda: The distillery designed it, showcasing the exceptional design skills of Italians. I feel incredibly fortunate to run a business focused on Italian culinary culture, similar to what you do with Dream of Italy!

Kathy: You’re living your dream! I’m inspired to profile people like you who create and realize their dreams.

Rhonda: Thank you so much! The ritual of aperitivo helped me through the pandemic; it’s a delightful way to unwind.

Kathy: It’s true! I once interviewed Francis Ford Coppola and observed that he and his family had a rule of having aperitivo daily, reinforcing the importance of those moments of connection.

Rhonda: I completely agree! Thank you for this wonderful conversation about Modena.

Kathy: Thank you, Rhonda. Anyone interested can find more details and book at italianculinaryadventures.com. (Save 20% when you sign up for a tour and mention “Dream of Italy”). If you’d like to explore show notes, we will compile all our restaurant recommendations, coffee tips, and more on a dedicated page at dreamofitaly.com/podcast.

Rhonda: Perfect! Thank you so much, Kathy!

Kathy: Thank you!