Making homemade bread, raising chickens in the backyard, and binge-watching Netflix—these were just some of the outcomes of the enforced domestic lifestyle we experienced last year. While there were certainly some positives, after watching “Tiger King” and “Lovecraft Country,” it became apparent: we needed to escape this mundane routine. So, we ventured towards Arkansas’s borderlands to assist you in planning your next road trip.
“Shreveport’s historic downtown originally consisted of wooden buildings, which sadly suffered from frequent fires. Kerosene lamps, wood stoves, and bar fights were a far from safe combination.” This is how the Downtown Development Authority describes Shreveport’s fiery architectural past. Today, though its skyline is made of less flammable materials, the city still carries an enduring spirit of resilience.
Before the oil and gas industry transformed it, Shreveport once boasted Louisiana’s largest Red Light District. The early 1900s saw legalized sex work thriving in the low-lying “St. Paul’s Bottoms” along the Red River, where brothels flourished, and madams like Annie McCune outshone New Orleans’ notorious Storyville—until church groups put a stop to it in 1917.
Today, evidence of Shreveport’s brothel days is largely limited to Larry Flynt’s Hustler strip club, and the city’s vice scene has shifted to another riverboat staple: gambling. Brightly lit signs flicker on the river’s surface, announcing valet-parking casinos such as Margaritaville, Sam’s Town, and Eldorado. Interestingly, these venues are conveniently located next to family-friendly attractions like an aquarium, a riverwalk trail, farmers market pavilions, the Robinson Film Center, and the SciPort Discovery Center, featuring a planetarium and IMAX theater.
To the west of the river district, old neighborhoods blend with new ventures. A barbecue joint might double as an auto detailing business—or vice versa. A sign notes that a vacant building once housed the Shreveport Macaroni Company. Down the street sits a Baptist church, the grand dome of the Strand Theater, and the legendary Shreveport Municipal Auditorium, where the “Louisiana Hayride” helped launch the careers of icons like Hank Williams and Johnny Cash. It was also here that promoter Horace Logan famously announced, “Elvis has left the building.” Nearby, you’ll find the manmade Cross Lake, ringed by ancient cypress trees. At night, the sounds of frogs serenade local fishermen, who relax in lawn chairs after a long week, while the lakeside homes range from modest 1970s cottages to extravagant estates with perfectly manicured lawns and palm trees.
Some areas of Shreveport share similarities with Greater Little Rock. Both cities are divided by a river, heavily reliant on cars for transportation, and experience patches of gentrification. Additionally, both have thriving food scenes and have faced national scrutiny regarding crime rates. Interestingly, each has an old-school psychic or fortune teller who has occupied prime real estate downtown even during economic downturns, while nearby restaurants and bars have come and gone. However, Shreveport has a distinct character that’s uniquely its own—a blend of ArkLaTex influences that makes it too Cajun for its East Texas neighbors, too landlocked to feel like New Orleans, and too open-minded to fully fit into the Bible Belt. Here are some ways to explore this vibrant city.
Don’t miss the Baby Shrimp Buster at Herby-K’s
A quick left turn off Texas Avenue takes you to a Shreveport culinary institution—one of the last businesses enduring in a struggling part of town. Named after its late, charismatic owner Herbert J. Busi Jr., Herby K’s first opened its doors as a package store called Flying Crow selling tobacco, candy, and fried oyster sandwiches in the 1920s and ‘30s. The family has owned it since 1936, when Busi rebranded it with his college nickname. You’ll likely be greeted at the door with cheerful hospitality and directed to a group of long wooden picnic tables adorned with a “Believe Dat!” flag, while an antique clawfoot bathtub filled with bus tubs awaits nearby. Be sure to try the Baby Shrimp Buster ($9.95), a smaller take on Herby K’s signature butterfly shrimp ($14.95) featuring shrimp pounded flat and fried until crispy, served on French bread with coleslaw, Herby-K sauce, and delicious onion rings.
Relax with a saison at Great Raft Brewery
Named after the Red River logjam that originally formed Shreveport, Great Raft’s beers are now commonly found across city taps at local favorites such as Marilynn’s, Orlandeaux’s, and Ki Mexico. This spacious brewery operates four days a week and features a lively array of colorful rotating beer signs, offering a range from the easy-drinking 318 Golden Ale to the fruity Walker Melon Texas Ranger and the unique mayhaw-infused Future Self wild ale. An eye-catching painting of Jeff Bridges as the Dude from “The Big Lebowski” hangs on the wall, inviting patrons to take it easy. If the brewery is too crowded for your liking, grab a growler or some cold brews to take with you; note that the bottled and canned options differ from the on-tap selections, so be sure to check both the signs and the cooler up front.
Feed a stingray at the Shreveport Aquarium
Open since 2017, this aquarium successfully balances entertainment with ecological responsibility. Nestled among the Riverside casinos, its eco-friendly LED lighting illuminates aquatic life including sharks, lionfish, seahorses, an enchanting collection of translucent sea nettles, and Sunshine, a charming albino red-ear slider turtle awaiting adoption. The aquarium also offers engaging interactive exhibits where visitors can feed stingrays or gently touch an anemone or starfish, after completing a quick hand-cleaning ritual.
Indulge in a duck-scallion pancake along with a glass of Malbec at Lucky Palace
Lucky Palace has gained popularity recently, especially after its owner’s inspiring life story appeared in The New York Times and the James Beard Foundation recognized its stellar wine program. This hidden gem, located within a budget motel called Bossier Inn & Suites, is not as easy to find. You might find yourself confused at 750 Diamond Jack Blvd., where a vintage neon “Lucky Palace” sign sits atop a building with vinyl-wrapped windows touting “Rack 2 Rack Billiards.” You may wander into a smoky pool hall filled with curious patrons, drawing odd looks. Don’t worry—someone will help direct you to the restaurant. Once you find it, you’ll be greeted warmly. Order their must-try duck and scallion pancake ($22), served alongside a bowl of chili crisp, with warm and tender scallion pancake wedges topped with fresh green onions, duck sauce, and succulent Peking duck breast. The extensive wine list spans 24 pages and features selections from around the world, so you can find something to suit your taste, from a $5 glass of Malbec to a $1,400 bottle of 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon from Rutherford Harlan Estate.
Honor the legacy of Lead Belly
A monument to folk music legend Huddie William Ledbetter, widely known as Lead Belly, stands proudly in front of the Shreve Memorial Library—another impressive architectural feat. Recognized for his skills as a multi-instrumentalist and innovator of the 12-string guitar, Lead Belly recorded famous blues songs like “Midnight Special,” “Goodnight, Irene,” “Black Betty,” “The Gallows Pole,” and “Where Did You Sleep Last Night?” His influence can be seen in the works of music greats such as Bob Dylan, Pete Seeger, Kurt Cobain, and Odetta, thereby contributing significantly to the evolution of rock music from its blues roots. You can find his statue at the corner of Texas and Marshall streets, created by artist Jessie Pitts and erected in 1996.
Try the Tonkotsu ramen at Noble Savage Tavern
Across from Lead Belly’s statue is Noble Savage, a shotgun tavern where Frank Zappa’s portrait adorns the bar, and you might hear mellow jazz or similar tunes before the live music begins later in the evening. You might wonder why anyone would visit a nightlife venue during the day, but it’s for the ramen. Found under the name Ghost Ramen, Noble Savage’s talented head chef, John Ortiz, crafts delicious ramen with handmade wheat noodles topped with chili oil, soft-boiled eggs, bean sprouts, and options like roasted artichoke or Kobe steak. The mouthwatering bowls are served until 10 p.m., but due to their popularity, it’s advisable to arrive early, as they often run out before closing.
Try your luck at the penny slots at Sam’s Town
If you can tolerate the smoke (and the occasional desperation) in the air, Shreveport’s riverboat casinos, like Sam’s Town, sparkle invitingly into the late night, featuring blackjack, Mississippi Stud, and numerous slots and table games. Although regulations limiting Louisiana casinos to body of water locations were lifted in 2018, the district remains centered around its riverside setting and continues to be a significant contributor to the state’s tax revenue.
Enjoy beignets and coffee at Marilynn’s Place
Housed in a former gas station in a residential area, Marilynn’s offers delicious beignets piled high with powdered sugar, alongside invigorating Bloody Marys. Visitors can also collect locally roasted Rhino Coffee at the bar, as the mostly outdoor seating creates a relaxed atmosphere for those who are either vaccinated or hesitant about dining indoors. Aside from the delectable beignets, they offer an impressive selection of po’ boy fillings: Cochon de Lait, curry-fried catfish, brisket, and more—all available to fill your beignet for the Bill Weiner Experience ($13.95). Brunch is served on Sundays, otherwise, head to Marilynn’s sister establishment, Ralph’s Place, where breakfast is available all day.
Browse local art at Agora Borealis
Situated across from the Shreveport Times in an industrial area is Agora Borealis, a vibrant art market showcasing local and state talent, alongside a few regional artists. Here, you can find unique items such as hand-carved wooden canes, homemade soaps, metal sculptures, laptop stickers, pewter earrings, and a variety of prints—making it the perfect place for functional and delightful souvenirs.
Relish tacos and elote at Ki Mexico
Ki Mexico exemplifies the fusion of family business ethos with a tattoo artist’s flair, featuring a tent patio and inventive tacos filled with fresh ingredients like cactus and redfish. Be sure to order elote ($4.81) served with a giant knife and fork in a branded metal tin, ideal for sliding the cotija-coated kernels off to enjoy with a fork. Note that this is not Tex-Mex; skip the chips and salsa and opt for the Guacamole Show ($10.77) for a flight of four out of six of their homemade salsas. Ki Mexico’s transparency in culinary artistry makes it an exciting eating experience. If you’re a fan of The Fold in Little Rock, you’re likely to find much to love about Ki Mexico. (And don’t forget to heed the sign urging everyone to “wear your pinche mask.”)
Stroll through the botanical garden at R.W. Norton Art Gallery
Encompassing 40 acres, this tranquil retreat is Shreveport’s version of Central Park. Nestled between retail strips and residential areas, it provides a picturesque setting for picnicking, outdoor learning spaces for schools, and a scenic route for joggers. As you meander through the garden, you’ll encounter Japanese maple trees, ferns, and camellias below towering pines and oaks near running streams. The accessible paths through the garden are perfect for leisurely walks, offering gentle inclines for those wanting a workout after indulging in those delicious beignets. Don’t forget to bring a good book and, perhaps, some Claritin. The garden is open for daytime visits from Thursday to Saturday, so check the hours at rwnaf.org.
Enjoy a bouchon at Whisk Dessert Bar
Whisk Dessert Bar, which specializes in desserts, is a small gem worth visiting, located alongside a gentlemen’s clothing store and a construction firm. Their offerings are exceptionally popular among wedding planners in Shreveport. Treat yourself to gelato, sorbet, or a delicious selection of cookies and delicate French-inspired treats, such as their dense and fudgy bouchons, adorned with a powdered-sugar stencil of their signature whisk design. During our visit, they were slicing a lemon pound cake cheesecake while also preparing orders for custom graduation cakes.
Try the stuffed shrimp at Orlandeaux’s Cafe
Located off Louisiana Highway 20, this iconic eatery is among the oldest continuously operated Black family restaurants in the U.S. On a sunny Friday afternoon, I was greeted by a full parking lot and a lively atmosphere, as patrons eagerly awaited dine-in seating. While there’s no patio here, we recommend grabbing three stuffed shrimp to-go or enjoying a seat at the bar, perhaps pairing the dish with a Louisiana-brewed pilsner from Cane River in Natchitoches, a wedge of lime enhancing your meal. For just $12.50, you can take home three large, perfectly spiced shrimp, hot from the fryer. Coming from a land of “mild” menus masquerading as spicy, I asked for a side of hot sauce—an unnecessary addition, I soon realized, thanks to their flavorful spice.
Experience the beauty of the American Rose Center
Located just outside Shreveport in Greenwood, the American Rose Center encompasses 118 acres of stunning landscape, with a rose garden that draws visitors into a picturesque labyrinth. Here, you’ll find tranquil paths leading past reflecting pools, an Asian teahouse, gentle wind chimes, and unique metal sculptures. As the center focuses solely on roses, the visitors center includes a library filled with rose reference books, alongside walls adorned with prints from classic USPS postage stamps celebrating this beloved flower. Be sure to come prepared with hats and sunscreen as only a portion of the garden is shaded and watch for poison ivy seedlings off the paved paths. A $5 donation per person is appreciated for entry, so bring cash or donate at rose.org.
Unwind during social hour at The Fat Calf
Situated in the Highlands, this neighborhood brasserie can be a bit pricey for dinner if you’re on a budget; however, their social hour from 4-6 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday offers a delightful sampling of their offerings. With ample patio space and a curated cocktail menu, guests can enjoy refreshing drinks alongside delectable $6 appetizers, such as garlic and chili oil coated fried cauliflower along with Parmesan and lemon zest, or crispy Brussels sprouts dressed with Korean vinaigrette, pumpkin seeds, and golden raisins. Reservations are encouraged, but arriving ahead of dinner service may allow you to snag a patio seat or a spot at the bar.
Savor a slice of strawberry pie at Strawn’s
This beloved breakfast and burger diner has gained a reputation for its scrumptious icebox pies, with the strawberry pie becoming a signature staple. Featuring a crispy, salty graham cracker crust and a generous filling of chilled strawberries topped with a thick layer of house-whipped cream, this treat is not to be missed. If you can’t park in front, there’s no need to worry; there’s ample parking in the back, complete with a not-so-secret staircase entrance that leads directly to the main dining area. On a Saturday morning, we opted for a slice instead of eggs and bacon—and reveled in our choice.
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