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LA COMANDANCIA DE LA PLATA HIKE
This trail is one of the most renowned hiking routes in Cuba. La Comandancia de la Plata holds a significant place in history as Fidel Castro’s secret headquarters nestled in the Sierra Maestra mountains. The hike takes you through the stunning landscapes of the Turquino National Park, which is home to Cuba’s highest peak, although this specific trail offers a more accessible route through pristine tropical forests. The journey begins with a jeep ride along Cuba’s steepest road, a concrete path built in the 1960s that features several thrilling bends, leading you to Alto de Naranjo, where the road terminates.
Leading up to the victory of the Cuban Revolution in 1959, Fidel and his followers launched a concerted campaign to overthrow the Batista government, engaging in numerous battles in this rural area. They established a base in the Sierra Maestra mountains, where they garnered significant local support. Daily broadcasts from Radio Rebelde (Revolutionary Radio) kept the population informed, assuring them that Fidel was alive and that the revolution was gaining momentum. Today, hikers can venture up the steepest part of the trail to see the location where the Radio Rebelde equipment was stored, explore the rustic home where broadcasters lived for weeks, and view the deep hole where an antenna was hidden after each broadcast.
Our guide, Ebert, was not only friendly and spoke fluent English, but he also navigated the trail with the agility of a mountain goat. He explained that only local residents are trained and employed as guides in this national park because they possess extensive knowledge of the trails and the physical stamina for the steep climbs. A passionate birdwatcher, Ebert pointed out various birds high in the trees and shared his comprehensive understanding of the local flora and fauna. As a delightful addition to our hike, he played revolutionary songs from the 1950s recorded by local brothers to support the revolution.
The trail spans 3 kilometers each way, featuring a well-maintained forest path with some short but challenging climbs. Wooden steps and handrails assist in the steeper areas, and the thick tree canopy provides ample shade. After an hour of hiking, we paused in a small open-air rest area for a briefing from Ebert, while large posters of Fidel seemed to oversee our attentiveness. Following this, we continued for another hour until we reached La Comandancia de la Plata. There, we explored various wooden structures well-concealed within the lush forest, including Fidel’s house, which had seven strategically placed escape routes and a trapdoor leading to a deep gully. Other notable buildings included the former infirmary, food storage area, and command center, where visitors can view hand-drawn maps and letters from that era. Overall, our hike took about five hours, including time for a picnic lunch and engaging discussions with our guide.
It was an enlightening day filled with breathtaking views of the Sierra Maestra mountains and a unique opportunity to delve into a crucial chapter of Cuban history. Our accommodation at the national park entrance was at the charming Villa Santo Domingo, featuring rustic wooden cabins along a gentle river. All rooms are spacious, equipped with ensuite bathrooms, air conditioning, a refrigerator, a TV, and a balcony that overlooks the forest. Just a ten-minute walk from the hotel, we found a natural swimming pool in the river—a refreshing spot to cool off after our hike. The meals at the hotel were exceptional, utilizing fresh local ingredients. Each morning, we enjoyed a generous plate of delicious sliced mango, alongside fresh pineapple and guava chunks. There are also a few local private restaurants, known as paladares, where dinner reservations can be made prior to hiking, although breakfast is served at the hotel.
Bringing walking poles is advisable; if you don’t have any, your guide will provide wooden branches available at the trail’s start.
Staying hydrated is crucial, as the climate is hot and humid. The ideal months for this hike are from November to April, although the trail is navigable year-round as long as it hasn’t been overly wet. Villa Santo Domingo is located a 90-minute drive from the historic city of Bayamo and a four-hour drive west of Santiago de Cuba.
The cost of the La Comandancia hike includes return transfers from Santiago de Cuba to the Villa Santo Domingo hotel; two nights of shared accommodation at the hotel; two breakfasts and two dinners; a picnic lunch on the hiking day; lunch and a short guided walk in Bayamo on day three; an English-speaking specialist park guide for the hike; and entrance fees for the park. For more details, follow this link to our website: La Comandancia hike.
