To celebrate Luca’s 30th birthday, I surprised him with a trip to Porto Ercole, located on Tuscany’s stunning Monte Argentario. This beautiful seaside destination is just a 1-hour and 50-minute drive from Rome, making it a popular getaway for Romans. Situated in Southern Tuscany in the Maremma region, bordering Lazio, Monte Argentario is a picturesque promontory connected to the mainland by two sandy strips: Giannella and Feniglia. These create the serene lagoon known as the Laguna di Orbetello. You can choose from several accommodation options across Porto Santo Stefano, Porto Ercole, and Orbetello. So, what are the best activities to enjoy in Argentario? From renting a boat for exploring beautiful beach coves and the nearby Giglio and Giannutri islands to dining at delicious restaurants and unwinding at trendy beach clubs, here’s my complete guide to Porto Ercole, Porto Santo Stefano, and Monte Argentario.
Where to Stay
Monte Argentario offers various great accommodation options. During Luca’s birthday surprise, we stayed in Porto Ercole, thanks to my friend Federica who lent me the keys to her lovely house. Here are the options:
Porto Ercole
This charming harbor town is the cutest place to stay in Monte Argentario. With a scenic harbor, a historic Spanish fortress, and a pedestrian-friendly layout, you can easily explore on foot. The port area is lively, boasting numerous restaurants, bars, and boat rental services, as well as quaint boutiques. If you’re eager to discover the nearby beach coves, renting a boat is a fantastic option. For sandy beaches, however, you’ll need a car to visit Feniglia, Giannella, or Ansedonia.
Overall, if you’re looking for a mix of activities along with nightlife, Porto Ercole is the ideal spot. For a luxurious experience, consider Hotel Il Pellicano—the epitome of dolce vita, although not situated right in the town center. Another great place with private beach access is La Roqqa. If you’re aiming to stay directly in town, check out the Porto Ercole Guest House or the Brezza Marina Guest House.
Porto Santo Stefano
This is the other well-known harbor in Monte Argentario. The atmosphere here feels more like a town than a seaside port; it’s significantly larger than Porto Ercole, featuring two harbors. From Porto Santo Stefano, you can catch ferries to Giglio and Giannutri islands. The area offers some stunning beach coves as well. Although it has good restaurants, the nightlife here isn’t as vibrant as Porto Ercole’s. Beach hotel options include Baia D’Argento and Hotel Villa Domizia, although they are located about 2-3 km from the center. Alternatively, check out the Bike & Boat Argentario Hotel right in the heart of the town.
Cala Piccola
If you’re searching for a tranquil getaway with access to the breathtaking Cala Piccola (one of Argentario’s most beautiful beach coves, not reachable by boat), consider staying at the Cala Piccola resort. The Hotel Torre di Cala Piccola boasts beautiful views of Giglio Island and lovely sun loungers on terraced rocks. Additionally, there are rental houses available for larger groups. Luca’s parents frequently stay here, and it’s truly delightful—perfect for a romantic and relaxing escape. Just bear in mind, you’ll need a car or a taxi to get anywhere since it’s not within walking distance from other locations.
Orbetello
This historical town, surrounded by a lagoon, is ideal for anyone looking to immerse themselves in history and easily access the sandy beaches of Feniglia, Giannella, and Ansedonia. It’s also a great starting point to explore nearby Tuscan towns. Just be sure to secure your accommodation in the historic center. A charming option my aunt suggests is Noi 2 Vacanze Orbetello Centro, which offers a great quality-price ratio. If you’re looking for an apartment in Orbetello, Il Mulino Apartment can accommodate up to four people. The town is also home to delicious restaurants!
Where to Go to the Beach
There are numerous stabilimenti where you can enjoy the beach. If you prefer golden sand, then Feniglia, Giannella, and Ansedonia are the top beach spots in Argentario. Head to la Capannuccia or Tuscany Bay Beach for trendy beach clubs.
If rocky beaches are more your style, check out the Riva del Marchese beach club located in the Le Viste area near Porto Ercole. This is where I took Luca for beach time on our third day in Argentario. Be sure to make a reservation in advance, especially on weekends, or you might struggle to find a spot. They offer beach beds and umbrellas either on the beach or on the grass, so be sure to specify your preference. The beach bar serves delicious salads, and you pay for everything at the end—€40 for two beach beds and an umbrella.
Where to Eat in Argentario
Although finding a good restaurant in Monte Argentario can be challenging, there are definitely some standout options.
Porto Ercole Restaurants
If you find yourself in Porto Ercole, make sure to visit Alicina Hostaria for a gourmet meal (they have a lovely outdoor area, an excellent wine selection, and superb food). Another choice is La Pinta along the lungomare, known for its traditional Italian dishes. If you’re in the mood to splurge, consider booking a dinner at the impressive Hotel Pellicano restaurant.
Porto Santo Stefano Restaurants
For dining in Porto Santo Stefano, I recommend Molo 26, Trattoria il Moletto, and I Due Pini (all with great atmospheres). There are plenty of restaurants in Ansedonia, Giannella, and Orbetello too! Near Giannella, you can find Ristorante Domizia, known for its beautiful views and gourmet cuisine. For more dining suggestions, check out my list of best restaurants in Monte Argentario.
Countryside Restaurants Near Argentario
If you have a car and are staying for more than just a weekend, I highly recommend exploring the Tuscan countryside and dining at one of its charming restaurants. Two noteworthy options include Casa Ricci in Magliano in Toscana, which has a lovely ambiance with string lights, delectable food, and excellent service. Be sure to try the cured meats and cheese platter as well as the octopus salad. For a gourmet meal, visit Da Maria in Capalbio, where you can enjoy an amazing terrace view of the countryside or dine indoors.
Renting a Boat in Porto Ercole
Renting a boat is an absolute must during your stay in Argentario. In Porto Ercole, you can hire a boat from Trillocco, which offers both boats that require a license and those that don’t. During my visit, I rented a 5.6m dinghy with a 40 e-tec engine for €160 (this was in July, and prices may be higher in August) with gas costs not included. This rental was one of the more affordable options; similar boats can easily cost around €250 per day.
For our boat day, we traveled from Porto Ercole to L’Isola Rossa and back, spending €11 on fuel. Be sure to call ahead, especially during peak season and on weekends, to secure your boat rental! Exploring Monte Argentario by boat is a unique experience, with stunning beach coves like L’Isola Rossa, Punta Ciana, Cala Grande, and Cala del Gesso. If you’re up for it, consider venturing to the renowned Giannutri or Giglio islands! Make sure to ask the rental service which areas are best to explore depending on the wind conditions. If you’re not comfortable driving a boat, you can always opt for a mini-cruise that takes you from Porto Ercole to the Giglio and Giannutri islands. Be sure to check out this mini-cruise experience.
If you’re planning to pack a lunch for your boat day, don’t miss Sandwich Club in Porto Ercole. The line outside is a good sign of its quality! They offer a menu with sandwiches, salads, and tramezzini that are perfect for enjoying on your boat. If you’re part of a large group, you can also place an order a day in advance and pick it up before heading to your boat rental.
If you found my suggestions helpful, check out my guide on the best beach hotels in Italy for more Italian summer inspiration.
How to Get Around Monte Argentario
While taxis and local buses are available, I do not recommend relying on them during the day, as buses can be unreliable and taxis may be difficult to find. The best way to explore Argentario is to rent a car or scooter. This grants you the freedom to move around and explore the stunning Tuscan countryside, which I highly recommend if you’re staying for an extended period.
Car Rental
If you plan to rent a car, it’s advisable to book it from the city you are arriving from rather than renting it in Argentario or Orbetello. The roads from Rome and other towns are safe and straightforward, meaning you can save on train costs. Here are some car rental comparison websites to check where you can easily book your car from major Italian cities:
- Autoeurope: This rental service partners with major car rental companies. Please note, you can’t book a rental from Argentario or Orbetello; you’ll need to collect your car from one of the larger Italian cities like Florence or Rome.
- DiscoverCars: Similar to Autoeurope, this site is a car rental comparison service. Again, rentals from Argentario or Orbetello are not available, so you will need to pick up your vehicle in an Italian city.
If you prefer to rent a car for the day, the Argentario website lists Agenzia Hertz in Porto Santo Stefano as a trustworthy option, which also offers car delivery for your convenience.
Scooter Rental
If you want to explore Argentario without driving your own car, consider renting a scooter for the day. While I haven’t located any rental services in Porto Santo Stefano, Dolores Scooter Rental in Porto Ercole is one option available, with prices starting at €40 for the day.
Taxis
If you need to call a taxi, you can ask your hotel to arrange one. While I haven’t personally used this service because we always drive our car, the Argentario website lists a taxi driver you can contact.
Buses
Since I typically travel to Argentario by car, my knowledge of the bus system comes from research. It appears that Tiemme operates the bus routes, but I found a website with schedules and stop information for the Orbetello-Argentario bus line. That said, I would recommend avoiding this option, especially in the summer when crowds and heat can make buses crowded and unpredictable.
