Editor’s note: This article is a result of a collaborative effort with Mount Engadine Lodge.
By Kim Gray
No matter the season, I have a deep appreciation for the simplicity and rhythm of backcountry lodge experiences in the Canadian Rockies.
Mornings usually begin with a robust cup of coffee, a hearty breakfast, and, if lucky, a breathtaking mountain sunrise for the guests.
After exhilarating outdoor adventures in the wilderness, guests come together for dinner, sharing stories of their day’s experiences.
At night, restful sleep comes easily after days filled with fresh air, physical activity, and delicious meals.
And the next morning? Simply repeat.
These backcountry experiences undoubtedly provide visitors with an opportunity to step away from the hustle and bustle of city life, reconnect with nature, and recharge.
So, when I had the chance to partner with Mount Engadine Lodge to share seasonal glimpses of this remarkable mountain retreat, I eagerly embraced it.
As the snow continues to fall in the mountain parks of Western Canada, I’m excited to begin with the snowiest season.
WINTER WONDERS
On a chilly late afternoon in winter, my husband David and I arrive at Mount Engadine Lodge, conveniently situated less than two hours from Calgary.
We make it just in time for the lodge’s famous tea service, so we stroll through the warm, inviting interior (originally built in 1987 by a Swiss-Austrian couple), past a cozy wood-burning fireplace, and head outside.
On the spacious deck overlooking the Kananaskis Range of Spray Valley Provincial Park, we join fellow puffy-coat-clad guests, primarily Canadians, all enjoying steaming mugs of hot drinks and beautifully arranged charcuterie boards.
We settle into comfortable Adirondack chairs, warm blankets draped over our laps, as we watch the sunset paint the snow-covered mountains in stunning shades of orchid pink.
Among the other guests are couples, small groups of friends, a few young families, and some solo travelers. In this moment, it’s clear that none of us would rather be anywhere else.
Eventually, David and I retire to our accommodation: a heated glamping tent called Peakbagger, elevated on a wooden platform alongside various lodging options such as cabins and yurts available at the lodge.
Greeted by a few inquisitive Whiskey Jacks (also known as Gray Jays), we prepare for the adventure ahead by unloading our snowshoes and cross-country skis onto our private porch.
Peakbagger provides everything we need: high-quality linens, a thick duvet, an inviting king-sized bed with a cushy pillow-top mattress, a small gas fireplace, a couch, and a charming wooden table for two.
We appreciate its minimalist mountain design, complemented by the delightful “Wild Kindness” shampoo and conditioner from the Rocky Mountain Soap Co. found in the tent’s private bathroom, which includes hot and cold running water and a flushable toilet. (Did I mention this is a glamping tent?)
Afterwards, we head to the main lodge for dinner: starting with pea soup infused with fresh mint, followed by tender lamb shanks, and finishing with a taste-bud-tingling lemon curd in phyllo pastry.
The dining atmosphere in the lodge is relaxed, characterized by a red canoe gracefully dangling from the ceiling.
Guests have exchanged their heavy winter coats for flannel shirts, fleece jackets, and slippers. Some mingle and engage in light conversation about their adventures, while others prefer to keep to themselves, quietly savoring the experience.
During our frosty visit to Mount Engadine Lodge, we indulge in cross-country skiing on groomed trails, and snowshoeing cheerfully around the winter meadow below. We even take turns on the lodge swing, which makes us feel like teenagers again.
If winter is a time for fun, it also provides a chance for rest and reflection.
We cherish sipping coffee in the lodge lounge during the early morning’s blue hours, spoiled by staff who make crackling fires just for us. We make several return trips to our tent to unwind and lose ourselves in our novels. A dark, star-filled sky invites us outside for brisk, late-night strolls.
Parting from Mount Engadine Lodge proves difficult. We barely hit the highway before feeling the urge to return to this unique wilderness retreat—beautifully cozy during winter nights, surrounded by snow-laden trees and slumbering mountains all around.
MOUNTAIN SPRING
As spring unfolds at Mount Engadine Lodge, David and I are thrilled to find ourselves back in the Peakbagger glamping tent that has become our home away from home.
The air is charged with a sense of renewal. The biting cold of winter and its mounds of snow have given way to a vibrant landscape around us.
As a couple, we embrace all types of weather, fully agreeing with the late British outdoorsman Alfred Wainwright, who famously stated: “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing.”
On this trip, we experience it all: sun, wind, clouds, and rain. Thankfully, we came prepared with everything from sunscreen to warm layers and waterproof gear.
While winter clings to the peaks above, rivers and creeks below have begun to thaw, showcasing powerful glacier-fed waters.
Grizzly bears are stirring from their sleep and meandering down the mountains in search of food, and we feel privileged to spot one of these majestic creatures ambling through the trees not far from the lodge.
Content Richardson’s ground squirrels, embracing the warmer weather, pop up and delight us at every corner.
At dinner, after exploring nearby trails, we savor sweet potato coconut soup followed by beef risotto. As a citrus enthusiast, I’m thrilled to see the lodge’s lemon curd in phyllo pastry on the dessert menu once more.
David, a budding bird photographer, eagerly flips through his handy Birds of the Canadian Rockies guidebook between courses as we ponder which avian friends we might encounter.
Early the next morning, hours before breakfast is served, we set out for nearby Buller Pond, where we’re thrilled to find a pair of blue-winged teals, stunning dabbling ducks with striking markings.
The haunting call of a loon pierces the air, sending shivers down our spines. When we finally spot the iconic bird across the pond, it’s a mesmerizing sight as it dives and preens its tail feathers.
Two glossy black ravens also make an appearance, astonishing us with their size, unique calls, and clever, engaging behavior.
What stands out from our spring retreat at Mount Engadine Lodge?
I’ll always remember the dusty rose sunrise that illuminated the land during our early morning birdwatching adventure.
The delicious apple strudel served with afternoon tea also left a lasting impression, along with the rare and delightful opportunity I had to take a two-hour afternoon nap. (When does that ever happen?)
Ultimately, our spring visit to the lodge left us feeling invigorated, grateful for the time spent with the wildlife thriving on the eastern slopes of the Canadian Rockies, and eager to see what our upcoming summer visit will bring.
SUMMER DREAMS
With our winter and spring escapades at Mount Engadine Lodge behind us, we return in the summer, again arriving just in time (not by chance!) for the celebrated tea service.
As we enter the lodge’s main building—cool and refreshing in the summer heat, with the soulful sounds of Van Morrison’s “Into the Mystic” wafting through the air—we find ourselves joining a diverse array of guests from around the globe.
It is summer in the Canadian Rockies, and the world has come alive.
As we soak in the mountain view, we connect with Italian, French, and Belgian travelers, sharing stories over a dinner featuring a bottle of El Enemigo Chardonnay, a salad with grapes, pecans, and smoked gorgonzola, wild salmon with white bean cassoulet, and decadent chocolate pots de crème.
Peakbagger is fully booked, so David and I check into Wolverine, another of the lodge’s five glamping tents; we’re pleased to find that the layout is nearly identical.
After tea, we enjoy a pre-dinner ride on our e-bikes. Though we usually ride traditional road bikes, their slim tires are less suitable for backcountry terrain, making this a special treat.
Summer in Kananaskis Country exudes a refreshing and soothing vibe.
The air is warm and fragrant, decorated with an abundance of wildflowers: orange western wood lilies, yellow lady’s slippers, and purple shooting stars. The beauty is simply breathtaking.
This sweetness takes an even more enchanting turn the following morning when we enter the main dining room for breakfast, where several grinning, wide-eyed guests excitedly ask, “Did you see the mother moose and her calf?”
Tiptoeing out to the deck, we find others watching in awe as the tall, graceful moose delicately meander through the lush meadow below.
Mount Engadine Lodge is renowned for its local moose population. We’ve had the pleasure of observing them during previous visits, and witnessing these “swamp donkeys” in the wild never loses its charm.
After enjoying a breakfast of strawberry crepes with whipped cream and croissants brimming with scrambled eggs and bacon, we prepare our belongings for a hike to nearby Chester Lake before making our way back to Calgary. The lodge staff kindly prepares bagged lunches for us to take along on our adventures, a delightful perk for guests.
Our half-day hike to Chester Lake is spectacular. We relish the opportunity to stretch our legs, navigating past vibrant green larch trees and carefully stepping around mounds of berry-laden bear scat, making plenty of noise to avoid surprising any wildlife).
Upon reaching the lakeshore, we find a peaceful spot to devour our lunch—hearty sandwiches filled with all the fixings, vegetable crudités on the side, and delectable baked cookies for dessert.
We take our time, soaking in the beauty of the impossibly turquoise alpine lake and savoring those final carefree moments before heading home.
FALL IN LOVE
As we drive to Mount Engadine Lodge in autumn, I’m reminded that any journey through Alberta’s cherished Kananaskis Country is an invitation to embrace the outdoors.
This time, we make a stop along the way to hike the popular Ptarmigan Cirque trail, hoping to catch a glimpse of its namesake—a rare bird with snowshoe-like feet.
Ptarmigans, who prefer to walk rather than fly, have plumage that changes with the seasons, making them elusive and hard to spot.
Fortune smiles upon us as we spot a pair feeding near a small creek above the treeline; their rocky coloration camouflages them well, and they freeze like statues, certain they remain unseen, as hikers stroll by.
It’s gratifying to spot my first Ptarmigans in this region, with their seasonal plumage of white and brown flecks harmonizing beautifully with the gold of the larch trees surrounding this natural amphitheater.
The trees shimmer in golden hues against the backdrop of a powder-blue sky.
As we head back towards the trailhead—larch needles carpeting our path and breathtaking landscapes surrounding us—I’m struck by the realization of my small place in this vast universe.
Autumn signifies change and transition, often embracing the transient.
As my assignment comes to a close, I find myself deeply appreciating everything we’ve come to love about lodge life at Mount Engadine.
Afternoon tea on the deck at the main lodge—this time featuring a glass of rosé alongside our charcuterie board at sunset—feels like a luxury.
We thoroughly enjoy engaging with other travelers over meals, like a young British couple who joyfully share that they just discovered they’re expecting their first child. Guests and staff cheer and raise a toast.
By now, our glamping tent (yes, we’re back in Peakbagger!) feels like an old friend.
In the still of the night, we awaken to the distant howls of wolves. I slip out of our warm bed, open the glamping tent door, and step into the cool night air.
Above, the moon casts a bright glow across a mesmerizing sea of stars. The autumn air is crisp, hinting that winter is on the horizon.
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