Savoring the Mediterranean Coast of France – A Journey with Sweeney

We kicked off this leg of our tour in Marseille. Leaving behind Spain, we enjoyed a scenic drive along the coast from Costa Brava, crossing the border into France’s oldest city—Marseille.

As someone from Marseille told me, “Marseille is a way of life.” It’s about playing pétanque (similar to bocce), sipping pastis (an anise-flavored liqueur created in Marseille as a substitute for absinthe in 1915), tasting Bouillabaisse (the city’s famed seafood stew), and embracing a certain joie de vivre. This lifestyle also celebrates the diverse culture, history, and arts of this unique Mediterranean melting pot, earning it the title of European Capital of Culture in 2013. — TWS Highlights of Marseille

The Collette-organized walking tour with a local guide allowed us to fully appreciate the highlights of Marseille and understand what makes it unique. The tour covered three distinct areas: Le Panier (the oldest neighborhood), the waterfront, and Vieux Port (the old port), showcasing a fascinating blend of ancient history, modern architecture, and cultural vibrancy.

Boats in the old port of Marseille

The bustling port area is alive at all hours, with brasseries, restaurants, and cafes lining the waterfront, many offering outdoor seating—a perfect spot for people-watching while soaking up the joie de vivre ambiance. The port is also a venue for vibrant events and concerts, with lively musical performances accompanying our stay.

Large screen projection — concert at Vieux Port

Perched on a hillside over the Old Port is the impressive 19th-century Basilica of Notre Dame de la Garde (often referred to as Marseille’s “Eiffel Tower”). This stunning structure is visible from many points in and around the city. We highly recommend visiting it (as we did on a previous trip) for both its beauty and the breathtaking views it offers of the port and sea.

Basilica of Notre Dame seen from the port in Marseille

Wandering through the narrow, sometimes steep pathways of Le Panier, I found this old neighborhood still radiated the charm I remembered from our last visit years back. As one of the oldest districts in France, Le Panier (meaning “the basket,” originally the site of the marketplace) was first settled by the Greeks in 600 B.C.

Peering down an alleyway of Le Panier toward the harbor

Le Panier’s character flourishes through its rich artistic expression found in murals and galleries. The colorful facades of its homes and shops, complemented by old-world details and decorations, also captivated my attention.

Pretty mural in Le Panier, Marseille

Marseille’s designation as the 2013 European Capital of Culture is particularly evident along the waterfront, which has transformed from the once-desolate La Joliette docks into a cultural hub. Noteworthy sites along this waterfront include the Marseille Cathedral, Villa Méditerranée, and the MuCEM (Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations), which exemplifies modern Marseille. This is the first French national museum established outside of Paris, showcasing the vibrancy and diversity of Mediterranean civilizations while offering performances, concerts, films, and various events.

Pedestrians on the waterfront esplanade — cantilevered Villa Méditerranée and MuCEM Marseille further on the left

Enjoying Free Time — Boat Tour of Calanques

While in Marseille, we embarked on a three-hour boat tour exploring the breathtaking Calanques, known for their stunning limestone cliffs and secret coves, stretching from Marseille to the charming town of Cassis, which we had previously visited. The adventure took an unexpected turn with rising winds, causing the waters to churn. We learned later that cruises immediately following ours were canceled due to the inclement weather. We got a bit soaked from splashing waves while perched at the front of the boat, prompting us to seek refuge inside. It was quite a rocky ride, yet the spectacular views and adventure made it worthwhile. (Your experience may be much calmer!)

Boat tour of the Calanques

In the Footsteps of Cézanne in Aix-en-Provence

As we journeyed from Marseille to Nice (our next stop), we paused in Aix-en-Provence, where Jean-Philippe, our tour manager from Collette, led us on a walking tour. Aix radiates charm and elegance with its delightful shops and fine dining options. You can visit the studio of the renowned artist Paul Cézanne (which we did during a prior visit) or simply feel his presence as you stroll through the streets. Keep an eye out for bronze markers embedded in the pavement with a “C” that points out 32 locations linked to Cézanne.

We also enjoyed ample free time in Aix-en-Provence. We discovered a charming restaurant along Cours Mirabeau, where we had lunch outdoors under the lovely weather. Coincidentally, it was Bastille Day, and there was an extra spirit of celebration as the waitstaff and patrons collectively burst into a spirited rendition of La Marseillaise, the French national anthem.

Quaint street in Aix-en-Provence

The open markets in Aix-en-Provence offer an abundance of fresh produce, bread, flowers, spices, sweets, and other local products. Markets throughout Provence have their own charm, but Aix’s are truly special.

Open air market on a lovely square in Aix

Nice — An Absolute Delight

The French Riviera is one of France’s most renowned regions, a stretch along the southeast coast along the Mediterranean, starting east of Marseille and extending to the Italian border. Its captivating beaches, picturesque coastline, and legendary luxury make it a must-visit area, particularly the city of Nice.

Our two-day stay on the French Riviera in Nice was nothing short of delightful (I couldn’t help the pun), but I would gladly return for more. I adored the quintessential Riviera ambiance, vibrant old town, lively squares, and beautiful parks. Walking along the seaside promenade, witnessing the stunning sunset on the pebbly beach, and exploring the colorful squares filled us with the romantic essence of the city. Our hotel was centrally located on a tree-lined avenue, making it simple to access major sights, shopping, and dining, not to mention the beach.

On the beach in Nice at sunset

Our time in Nice was enjoyed under balmy weather, perfect for outdoor dining and beach strolls at sunset. A walk along the Promenade des Anglais, which stretches for 7 kilometers along the Baie des Anges, is a must for any visitor — whether it’s for people-watching, enjoying the sunset or sunrise, or admiring the iconic luxury hotels and cultural landmarks. While strolling, we pictured ourselves attending the final two stages of the 2024 Tour de France, as we passed stands and other signs of the imminent event.

Scenes of Nice

Art enthusiasts have plenty of cultural venues to explore, such as the Musée Matisse and the Musée National Marc Chagall, while history lovers can delve into the Musée Masséna. Strolling the narrow, winding alleyways of the old town, complete with stops for coffee, wine, or gelato, is a wonderful way to pass the time. Nice also served as a perfect launching pad for our Collette optional day trip to Grasse and Saint-Paul-de-Vence.

Saint-Paul-de-Vence — A Haven for Art Lovers

Saint-Paul-de-Vence is a medieval hilltop town rich in artistic heritage. This picturesque locale has inspired legendary artists like Matisse. As we wandered the narrow streets lined with art studios and galleries towards the top, we were rewarded with panoramic views of the verdant countryside and the sea on the horizon. Afterward, we enjoyed a lovely lunch outdoors on a quaint and quiet side street.

Saint-Paul-de-Vence

An art gallery in Saint-Paul-de-Vence

A Touch of Glamour in Monaco

As we traveled towards our next destination, Genoa, Italy, we enjoyed stunning scenery, including a stop in Monaco. Though Monaco functions as a sovereign city-state, it is often regarded as part of the French Riviera.

Monaco, the second smallest country in the world (following only Vatican City), epitomizes wealth, luxury, and glamour, complete with views of twinkling lights illuminating the hills around the harbor. It’s no wonder this glamorous locale has been featured in numerous films, including To Catch a Thief and James Bond flicks like Never Say Never Again and Goldeneye. — TWS A Day in Monaco

Port of Monte Carlo seen from Monaco City

While we had previously visited Monaco, our Collette tour provided us with a new perspective that allowed us to discover different attractions. As part of the tour, we enjoyed a ride on the “Little Train” that navigates the scenic route from the main square in Monaco City through Monte Carlo, passing high-end designer stores up to the iconic Monte Carlo Casino, then back again. It was a fun and unique way to explore. On our prior visits, we docked at the port during a Viking Mediterranean cruise and found a different route to reach the casino from the harbor, and that’s worth considering if you want a more direct approach.

Monte Carlo Casino

A walking tour of Monaco City, often referred to as “The Rock” due to its clifftop position above the Mediterranean, introduced us to the changing of the guard at the Prince’s Palace and offered access to a self-guided tour inside this opulent royal residence. The Cathedral of Monaco, where Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier wed and are buried, was another highlight of our tour.

Prince’s Palace in Monaco

Lunch Tip: After our guided tour of Monaco City, we had time for lunch. While numerous eateries exist near the palace, we received a recommendation to visit Le Marché de la Condamine, a sizable indoor food market boasting a diverse selection of food vendors.

The Scents — Beautiful Fragrances of Mediterranean France

Perfumes in Grasse

To be honest — I don’t often wear perfume, but I do relish the occasional delightful fragrance. At Fragonard Perfumery in Grasse (north of Nice) as part of the optional Collette day trip, we not only encountered several delightful scents but also got the opportunity to create our personal fragrances. We had the guidance of a skilled perfumer known as le nez (the nose) because of their vast knowledge in the art and science of fragrance creation, working with ingredients like lilacs for our aromatic composition.

Perfume making at Fragonard in Grasse

Soap Making in Marseille

Have you heard of the famous Marseille soap? Soap-making has been a cherished tradition in Marseille for over 600 years. We took a short ferry ride from Quai du Port to a soap museum on Quai de Rive Neuve, where we enjoyed a fun and informative experience. After a brief demonstration on how soap is made, we had the chance to craft our long bars of fresh soap and personalize them with our own designs and imprints. Naturally, we took our handmade soap creations home as unique souvenirs of Marseille.

Marseille soap museum

The Flavors — A Taste of Mediterranean France

Cuisine in the south of France — Ravioli à la Niçoise, zucchini flowers, Calissons d’Aix, mussels in a creamy garlic sauce, seafood stew, panisse

Bouillabaisse (a seafood stew famously associated with Marseille), mussels, panisse (similar to French fries, but made from ground chickpeas), and Ravioli à la Niçoise (pasta stuffed with beef and vegetables) topped our list of favorites. We also sampled zucchini flowers as a starter during dinner in Nice. The collage above features fresh zucchini flowers from the open-air market in Aix-en-Provence.

For a sweet treat, consider tasting local delicacies like Calissons d’Aix or the many varieties of nougat—two specialties integral to the traditional 13 desserts of a Provençal Christmas.

Outside dining in Marseille

Restaurant Recommendations:

During your free time for meals, consider these dining options that we thoroughly enjoyed:

Dinner at La Maison de Marie, 5 rue Masséna, Nice — Their beef ravioli and seafood stew are highlighted in the photo above.
Dinner at Le Safari, 1 cours Saleya, Nice — Their Ravioli à la Niçoise offers a delightful variation on the beef ravioli from La Maison de Marie.
Lunch at Le Singe Vert, 15 cours Mirabeau, Aix-en-Provence — A lovely location with a delightful menu that includes salads, vegetarian options, seafood, and beef dishes.
Lunch at Le Bouchon Provençal, 6 place Aux Huiles, Marseille — Perfect for light fare, we enjoyed salads and panisse here.
Dinner at Sur le Port, 54 Quai du Port, Marseille — Known for their mussels, this is a specialty you won’t want to miss.

Souvenir Suggestion: As mentioned earlier, perfumes and soaps make for wonderful souvenirs. Olive oil, wine, herbs, and spreads from Provence are also lovely mementos.

Culture Tip: When in France, remember to greet shopkeepers, restaurant staff, and locals with bonjour (hello/good day) or bonsoir (good evening); it’s a gesture of respect and sets a positive tone for your interactions.

South of France Point of Interest: Between our previous stop in Spain’s Costa Brava and Marseille, we ventured inland to Abbaye de Fontfroide near Narbonne for a tour and a delightful lunch featuring locally sourced food and wine. This stunning 9th-century abbey and its grounds offer lovely gardens and panoramic views of the hilly countryside.

Abbaye de Fontfroide

Au revoir, France! Now onward to Italy, the third stop on our Collette Mediterranean Coastal Journey tour.

Disclosure: Our Mediterranean Coastal Journey was sponsored by Collette, and we thoroughly enjoyed it!

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