I love living in Wānaka, but Golden Bay made me reconsider my choice. This sunny and warm destination, known for its affordability, sparked my curiosity about potentially living there comfortably. However, I’m unsure if my vibe aligns with the local hippie culture—more on that later.
After completing the Heaphy Track near Takaka, I took the shuttle with Golden Bay Air to the airport, where I decided to rent a car. This company handles the logistics and flights throughout the region. Takaka feels like it’s a million miles (and at least $500 in gas) from Wānaka, so having an opportunity to rent a car was my chance to explore parts of New Zealand that I don’t often visit.
Let me clarify: calling this place an airport is a bit of a stretch. It’s essentially just a small office with a runway (which I can’t quite recall if it was even paved). It offers small plane flights, and everything about it feels relaxed and stress-free—exactly what you want on vacation. I was given an old Honda that felt like it could handle any adventure. With the windows down and the salty, warm breeze flowing in, I hit the road to Takaka, fully embracing the feeling of paradise. This place has that tight-knit community vibe where everyone knows each other’s names (and business). I absolutely love it!
The first thing to note about Golden Bay is that it feels like stepping back into the 90s. This is quite a statement given that much of New Zealand also has that retro vibe.
You’ll find honesty boxes filled with fruits on nearly every street, and no one seems to be in a hurry. It’s such a refreshing contrast to the usual pace of life. Golden Bay is located at the very northern tip of the South Island and boasts some of New Zealand’s sunniest weather. It’s also home to fantastic local growers and farms. Most of the northern part of the South Island has this charm. As I write this, I can feel a centimeter of frost outside, and my power bill is astronomical. Why Wānaka, why?!
Golden Bay stretches from the Abel Tasman National Park all the way to Farewell Spit, which is a 26-kilometer-long sand spit. The bay’s shape resembles a perfect “C” and is one of the more secluded areas in New Zealand—definitely a place you must visit intentionally, as it’s not on the way to anywhere.
My previous visits to Golden Bay have been during whale stranding events with Project Jonah. Farewell Spit is notorious for such occurrences, especially mass strandings of pilot whales. About seven years ago, over 400 whales unfortunately beached themselves there. Although the reasons behind these strandings are not perfectly understood, theories suggest that this area features strong tidal flows and a gently sloping sandy beach, with deep water just beyond. Regardless of the explanation, it’s a tragic situation for the whales.
As many of you know, this topic resonates deeply with me, especially after I encountered a stranded whale alone on Rakiura/Stewart Island years ago. That haunting experience has shaped my efforts toward marine conservation, particularly concerning marine mammals.
Devastating, I know. But on the bright side, I was thrilled to visit Golden Bay and not have to deal with dead or dying whales. That’s a win in my book!
Takaka is about an hour from Motueka along the coast and serves as the entry point to the Abel Tasman National Park. However, the journey involves driving over a mountain. Golden Bay and Takaka have managed to stay relatively isolated, largely because traversing the mountain is a bit of a hassle. Locals affectionately refer to it as Takaka Hill—New Zealand is known for its quirky naming conventions. The road winds with sharp turns and steep drop-offs, making for an exhilarating drive!
But don’t worry; there are safety guard rails and plenty of pull-offs and passing areas. I wish they would implement similar features on the Crown Range, where the connecting road between Wānaka and Queenstown has almost no safe passing options. As a result, it’s common to be stuck behind tourists in camper vans that are traveling far below the speed limit, causing significant delays. It’s immensely frustrating.
But I digress. The road had been in disrepair for years due to damage caused by a storm, with one particular section down to a single lane for four long years. During that time, a local even put up a huge sign to count the days the roadworks continued. I have to admit, I enjoy a good battle against bureaucratic inefficiencies.
As the locals say, “It’s just a hill; get over it!”
A little secret: it’s absolutely worth the journey to Golden Bay, whether you drive or fly in from Wellington or around the Heaphy with Golden Bay Air. It’s a truly special place that maintains a distinct local charm.
During my stay in Takaka, I spent three nights—one at a bach by the seashore after my four-day hike, where I could relax, indulge in a mountain of fried food, and enjoy an hour-long shower. Sigh. There’s nothing quite like a hot, greasy meal and a long shower after days spent in the wilderness.
For the remaining nights, I chose to experience Rustic ReTreet, a relatively new glamping site just outside of Takaka. Spoiler alert: it felt like stepping right into a fairy tale. I adore these unique, cozy accommodations. They’re not just a place to stay; they often become destinations in themselves, allowing you to feel perfectly content without venturing any further.
As a traveler who enjoys the comforts of home, it’s easy to see why these accommodations fascinate me—and many others as well—making them all the rage.
The Nelson-Tasman region, particularly around Kahurangi National Park, is known for its caves. It boasts numerous caves, among which are the longest and deepest in the country. I find it puzzling why anyone would venture into these depths, as I can’t imagine anything good coming from being so far underground.
I’ve dabbled in tourist caving experiences in various locations, like Waitomo Caves on the North Island and Karamea (at the opposite end of the Heaphy Track) on the West Coast. New Zealand is also famous for blackwater rafting, an adventure where you float through cave systems on an innertube, ranging from mild to extreme fun!
I spent quite a bit of time photographing glowworms—it’s challenging work! After several hours in the darkness, your mind can start to play tricks on you. I’m at a loss as to how dedicated cavers manage to do it! Golden Bay is home to many caves with varying degrees of accessibility, including some suitable for tourists.
Just a short drive from Rustic ReTreet through farmland leads to the trailhead for Rawhiti Caves. The climb to the cave entrance was quite a workout, and I found it slightly eerie being the only person there. While you don’t venture far into the cave, you’ll discover a magnificent opening adorned with stalactites, complete with a nice viewing platform.
With daylight still to spare, I ventured to Puponga near Farewell Spit to see the renowned Wharariki Beach. I couldn’t believe I had never visited this iconic spot—or maybe I had, and it just slipped my mind.
Allegedly, the beach is featured in Windows 10 screensavers—with which I have lost touch since high school. Famous for its rocky islands, including one that looks like an elephant, the beach offers stunning reflection views in the surf depending on the wind and tides.
During my visit, it was incredibly windy, but the scenery remained stunning. The expansive beach, bordered by dunes backlit by the sunset, looked almost magical, the sand swirling in the breeze like glitter. The highlight? Watching adorable fur seal pups frolicking in the tide pools—I could hardly contain my delight!
On my way back to Takaka, I stopped for dinner at the Mussel Inn, a legendary establishment located in the middle of nowhere. This beautiful wooden building boasts extensive outdoor spaces and often serves as a music venue. I enjoyed a cozy seat by the fire, sipping on one of their homemade beers and diving into a generous serving of green-lipped mussels. Delicious! Although it was the off-season and relatively quiet, the staff kicked off some singalongs on the piano. What an incredible atmosphere!
Having arrived at my last morning in Golden Bay, I enjoyed a leisurely brunch in Takaka before venturing out to learn about the Te Waikoropupū Springs, recognized as the largest cold water springs in the southern hemisphere. The springs boast some of the clearest water in the world, with visibility reaching up to 81 meters—almost pure water!
Local Māori regard the springs as a taonga (treasure), which is why getting into or touching the water is strictly prohibited. The easy walking track encircling the springs offers a beautiful experience, as their incredible blue hue is simply unforgettable.
Before long, it was time to head to the airport for my flight back to Karamea. In the small, cozy plane with only three other passengers from Golden Bay Air, we enjoyed a half-hour flight back. This option was infinitely more comfortable than enduring a seven-hour drive back and forth from the track finish. Of course, I still had a ten-hour drive to Wānaka ahead of me—sigh.
The further south I drove, the chillier it got outside. Perhaps I should have lingered a little longer in the stunning Golden Bay.
Many thanks to Golden Bay Air for assisting with my transport costs. As always, I’m keeping it real—like you could expect anything less from me!
