My long-standing curiosity about the Berlin Wall made my visit an easy choice. The wall is an iconic symbol of Berlin and the Cold War, representing a significant chapter in history. I traveled to the Berlin Wall Memorial to dive deeper into the story of the border that separated Western Europe from the Eastern Bloc. This memorial is essentially a vast outdoor exhibit that spans the entirety of Bernauer Strasse, divided into sections that explore various aspects of this dark period of history.
The Window of Remembrance features photos of over 130 individuals who lost their lives along the border strip. Additionally, various other memorials can be found throughout the site.
The lush green lawns provide a soothing contrast to the stark border walls.
A section of the death strip, complete with a preserved lookout tower, is maintained. Observing from the rooftop of the Documentation Center, it became painfully clear that escaping from East Berlin was nearly impossible. The barren lawn offered no hiding spots for those attempting to flee, all compounded by barbed wire, landmines, rounded walls, lookout towers, and vigilant border guards. Anyone who attempted to escape must have been driven by desperation against overwhelming odds.
Nordbahnhof Ghost Station
As if the somber history weren’t enough, rain began to fall. I sought refuge in the Ghost Station exhibition at Nordbahnhof. This station is referred to as a “ghost station” because trains from West Berlin used to pass through its underground lines without stopping. The trains would merely slow down as they approached but never made a full stop.
This underground station was heavily patrolled by East German guards to prevent it from becoming an escape route. Despite their efforts, there were some successful escapes, including those by the guards themselves. Eventually, the German Democratic Republic (GDR) sealed off the entry and exit points.
East Side Gallery
The next stop was the East Side Gallery, the longest preserved section of the Berlin Wall. Although it requires some travel via public transportation from the Berlin Wall Memorial, it’s definitely worth the journey. This area has become a memorial to freedom, showcasing the creative expressions of various artists through graffiti. The vibrant colors painted over the grim concrete symbolize a hopeful and liberated future. The East Side Gallery is recognized as the world’s longest open-air gallery.
The mood here felt much lighter compared to the Berlin Wall Memorial.
There’s a souvenir shop at one corner selling GDR memorabilia, where you can even get an old GDR passport stamp. Another popular activity is taking a car tour around Berlin in a classic East German “Trabbi” or Trabant. Personally, I’d prefer to spend my time admiring the beautiful Oberbaumbrücke bridge instead. 🙂
Checkpoint Charlie
Checkpoint Charlie was the sole entry point for Allied personnel and foreigners to access East Berlin by road following the construction of the Berlin Wall in 1961. It was also the site where American and Soviet tanks faced off, amidst a diplomatic crisis that had the potential to ignite World War III. Just looking at the black-and-white photos evokes the intense tension of that 16-hour standoff. Now, that historical unease has diminished, replaced by throngs of curious tourists like myself. Today, the highlight is the replica guardhouse with sandbags, along with actors dressed as US soldiers.
Aside from Checkpoint Charlie, two other checkpoints exist further from central Berlin: Checkpoint Bravo at Dreilinden-Drewitz and Checkpoint Alpha at Helmstedt-Marienborn. I hope to visit those in the future as well.
Berlin Wall in Singapore
Interestingly, you can also see a piece of the Berlin Wall right here in Singapore. Germany gifted Singapore two concrete slabs of the wall to celebrate 50 years of diplomatic relations in 2016. These slabs now stand in a relatively secluded area within Tembusu College at the National University of Singapore. This quiet spot seems fitting for such a historical artifact, although I must admit I found the graffiti on the slightly weathered slabs to be underwhelming.
