Ah, the beautiful month of September in Florence, Italy, is usually filled with excitement as it marks the classic “rientro,” or return period, following the summer holidays.
You’ll see locals, sun-kissed and cheerful (especially those fortunate enough to avoid this summer’s intense heatwave), returning to work and gathering in cocktail bars and pizzerias to share tales from their vacanze. This is the time when everyone’s schedules start to ramp up with work and children heading back to school.
It’s amusing to reflect on how, when I wrote this post last year, I believed that by September 2021 everything would be vastly different. That we would have returned to some semblance of normalcy, albeit with caution.
Spoiler alert: it’s not.
It’s clear that we had no idea the extent of the ongoing impact, or that dangerous variants would still be circulating globally, creating a challenge to live without stress. It feels like this nightmare virus might never end. Nevertheless, I am choosing to embrace the present, striving to avoid excessive worries about the future. Nico and I got vaccinated this summer (thank goodness), yet we are still navigating life much like before, wearing masks in crowded places and on public transport due to the troublesome Delta variant, especially since our daughter is only four months old and ineligible for vaccination.
A quick update from Italy– the Green Pass has now been implemented here, and restrictions are expected to tighten further. For instance, passengers can only utilize certain forms of public transport if they present a Green Pass, verifying recent vaccination, a negative COVID test taken within the past 48 hours, or recovery from the virus within the last six months.
It’s important to stay informed about the latest regulations in Tuscany and beyond. Follow sources like The Florentine, La Repubblica, The Local Italy, and the Tuscan Region.
On a brighter note, one thing I’ve always loved about September is the onset of grape harvest season and the delicious la schiacciata con l’uva. It’s a delightful flatbread loaded with juicy grapes that makes the rientro more enjoyable.
Personally, autumn is my favorite time of year, and can we just say an amen for cooler weather and countless opportunities to whip up hearty soups while snuggling up with a cozy blanket (that our dog Ginger will definitely try to steal) and a good book?
We spent a wonderful month in Florence this past July and are looking forward to returning to our little house with Annabelle for a week in October. I can’t contain my excitement and hope for cooler weather, as October is always a cherished time for us to explore Tuscany.
For those of you wondering about our “new home” and missing updates about our dual life between Switzerland and Florence, here’s a post to catch up on .
September Link Love
While coronavirus restrictions will mean fewer events, there are still plenty of reasons to be excited this September. I encourage you to be respectful, wear a mask, stay vigilant in crowds, and still enjoy the start of autumn in the city!
This September 4th and 5th marks ‘La Fierucola del Pane,’ the city’s oldest fierucola (a local market for organic products and promoting small-scale organic and biodynamic farming). Now in its 37th edition, this year it will take place in Piazza Santa Croce instead of Santissima Annunziata. It’s a day-long open-air market (9 am to sundown) featuring not only bread but also organic honey, seasonal foods, and artisanal crafts.
I’m thrilled to announce that one of my favorite local food festivals, the “sagra del tartufo,” is back from September 4th to September 26th. I’m gearing up to head back to the Girone neighborhood (suburbs of Florence) to indulge in all things truffle! In its 37th year, volunteers from the Italian Red Cross will serve truffle pizza, bruschetta, pasta with truffles, and truffle sausage. Yes, I might sound like Bubba Gump, but you get the idea! It’s affordable, fun, and easily accessible via bus line 14 (towards Girone), which you can catch from the station, taking about 25 minutes to reach the last stop. More info is here (in Italian). Expect communal seating, somewhat harsh lighting, and a truly local vibe. Safety precautions as per COVID-19 restrictions are in place. For inquiries or to make a reservation, call or email: tel. 3314480285 or email: [email protected]. You’ll find the food festival structure by heading to Piazza Sandro Pertini, Fiesole, then taking a left.
An open-air Creative Factory is coming to Giardino di Arte’Cultura (horticulture garden, Via Vittorio Emanuele II n.4) on September 5th. This event will feature various activities (including kid-friendly options) such as picnics, a photography workshop, and an urban dance show. More details can be found here. This initiative is organized by the Heyart Association, aimed at promoting creativity and youth entrepreneurship.
This Saturday, the 4th, visit the community café Il Conventino near Piazza Tasso for a night of Jazz (their pizzas are fantastic too—a real gem!). They host regular events throughout the week, so keep an eye on their Instagram.
For those seeking Pilates, massages, yoga, mindfulness, and more, Relax Firenze is the prime spot in the city center, located near Piazza della Repubblica. From September 13th, they will offer courses in mini-groups for Pilates, postural Pilates, and yoga.
On September 7th, the Italian Chef Charity Night returns to the Forte Belvedere terrace featuring several renowned chefs preparing a variety of dishes for charity, benefiting the Ca’ Moro restaurant in Livorno, which employs young people with disabilities, and the Montedomini project by the non-profit organization ‘Il cuore di Firenze,’ dedicated to creating homes for elderly individuals in need. Here’s where to get your ticket.
September 7th is also when The Festa della Rificolona takes place, an annual Festival of Paper Lanterns honoring the Virgin Mary’s birth (on September 8th). In Florence, this festival dates back to when farmers from the outskirts of the city would parade into Santissima Annunziata with their lanterns to sell their goods in a market the following day. On the evening of September 7th, around 8 pm in Piazza Santissima Annunziata, expect to see many local Italian families with vibrant lanterns, while local kids playfully try to launch spit wads at them (yes, I’m serious!). It’s quite a spectacle, especially if it’s your first time in Florence. This year, it’s back (yay!) with various events across neighborhoods for children as well – check out this article (in Italian) for more details.
The British Institute of Florence regularly hosts a variety of engaging cultural events. This September, you can join one of their Wednesday lectures, now conducted via Zoom, attracting individuals from around the globe for entertaining and insightful discussions about Florence’s history, art, and culture. Here’s the upcoming program—topics range from “Currency of Diplomacy: Friendship, Propaganda, and the Power of Renaissance Portrait Medals” to “Guardians and Messengers: Archangels in Florence.”
Love Jazz? You’re in for a treat! From September 8 to 12, the Firenze Jazz Festival is set to feature five days of music with over 100 artists performing across ten different venues, totaling more than 35 live events in Florence. You can view the program here.
A new Fierucola organic market will be held every second Sunday from 8 am to 3 pm in Piazza Carmine, starting on September 12th. I’m eager to see how this turns out!
Forte di Belvedere is still welcoming visitors! This former 16th-century Medici fort reopened this summer as a contemporary art space and a perfect spot for drinks with a stunning view of the city. Currently, you can enjoy an exhibition titled Pienovuoto, curated by Sergio Risaliti, artistic director of the Museo Novecento, featuring the renowned photographer Massimo Vitali, famous for his ‘metaphysical’ images. The displayed works portray our contemporary society amidst solitude and multitude—showcasing the contrast between populated areas and serene landscapes where nature or urban environments isolate certain individuals among grand architecture.
Artigianato e Palazzo returns this September, showcasing local artisan craftsmanship from the 17th to the 20th centuries in the beautiful gardens of Palazzo Corsini. It’s an excellent opportunity to explore this remarkable (and typically private) venue. Address: Via della Scala 15.
On Sunday, September 19th, head to Piazza Santo Spirito for the all-day organic fair, Fierucolina di S.Michele. The square will come alive with organic producers from around Tuscany and Italy, offering delights such as parmesan, kombucha, bread, essential oils, and much more.
The Florence Cocktail Week will take place from September 20th to the 26th, where some of the best bars in the city (over 45 in total) will host a series of exciting events celebrating cocktail culture. Expect an elevated aperitivo hour, masterclasses, and more! Here’s the list of participating locations in Florence.
The Female Arts of Florence space in San Frediano will offer a range of holistic events this September, including yoga, dance, and meditation—check out the full schedule here.
One of my favorite spots in Florence is Manifattura Tabacchi, a former tobacco factory in the San Jacopino neighborhood that has evolved into an urban space featuring art exhibitions, a fantastic restaurant (Bulli & Balene), a café, and venues for concerts and outdoor movies. Here are a few highlights for this month that you might want to check out:
- Until September 19th, visit the Botanica Temporanea, an interactive exhibition fostering gentle, environmentally sustainable practices aimed at nurturing spontaneous flora and fauna, fostering a sustainable, long-term balance between humans and nature through greenery installation with 1555 plants and over 50 botanical species provided by Giorgio Tesi Group. Exhibition hours: Monday to Friday from 10:00 to 17:00 (by appointment), or Saturday from 10:30 to 19:30 (no appointment needed).
- September 15-21 – God Is Green festival. These discussions will focus on sustainability and future initiatives, organized by Manifattura Tabacchi and produced by Nam – Not a Museum.
- September 16-18, SUPERBLAST exhibition opens to the public, showcasing the work of six artists from the international call: Edoardo Aruta, Antonio Obregon Bermúdez, Federica Di Pietrantonio, Iper-collettivo, Oliviero Fiorenzi, and Violette Maillard. SUPERBLAST explores the relationships between humanity and the environment, individuality and community, nature and culture.
- Join a community bike tour (bring your own bike) to explore some of Florence’s lesser-known neighborhoods. In September, discover the Quartiere of Novoli on September 9th (6:30 pm-8:30 pm).
The St. Mark’s English Church on Via Maggio always hosts a variety of events, including book clubs, writers’ workshops, and yoga sessions. Here are their offerings for September (Green Pass required).
If you enjoy movies, The Odeon is a fantastic location for watching films on the big screen. The highly anticipated movie Dune premieres on September 16th, described by The Guardian as, “Denis Villeneuve’s slow-burn space opera, blending arthouse aesthetics with epic storytelling.” Keep an eye on their program for original language films.
For short film enthusiasts, the 8th edition of the short film festival (FirenzeFilmCorti) will run from September 22nd to 25th across several venues in town, including Murate complex, Accademia Belle Arti in Florence, and Limonaia Villa Strozzi.
The final Saturday of September (25th) features the Carro Matto or “crazy cart,” showcasing flasks of wine from Rufina pulled by white oxen through the city. This parade, typically around 3:30 pm, celebrates the wine harvest season.
Corri la Vita is an annual charity marathon that’s well-loved by locals. This year, the event will stretch across Tuscany and welcomes varied forms of athletic participation. Additionally, numerous cultural sites throughout Tuscany will be free to entry for those sporting the iconic Corri la Vita shirt. Funds raised support efforts against breast cancer and assist cancer patients.
While not tied to a specific event, September is an excellent time to enjoy Florence’s many rooftop terraces, weather permitting. Most are atop hotels and welcome anyone for an aperitif or dinner, boasting stunning panoramic city views—though drinks can be a little pricier.
- “La Terrazza” atop Hotel Continental is open to the public, offering a chic setting for a moscow mule with breathtaking views of Ponte Vecchio. Reservations are required. Address: Vicolo dell’Oro, 6r – 50123 Florence, Phone: +39 055 2726 5806, E-mail: [email protected].
- Loggia Roof Bar in Santo Spirito provides a unique perspective of one of the city’s most popular local gathering spots. I absolutely adore this terrace and would love to make it my permanent residence. Address: Piazza Santo Spirito, 9, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy. Reservations recommended.
- B-Roof, located on Hotel Baglioni, is the perfect venue for a sunset aperitivo with a vast terrace offering unbeatable views of the Duomo cathedral. Delicious snacks and cocktails are available, but reservations are advised as it’s a popular spot. Additionally, it’s conveniently close to the train station for quick departures. Phone: +39 055 23588865, Website: www.hotelbaglioni.it.
- Hotel Plaza Hotel Lucchesi boasts a stunning rooftop terrace by the National Library—one of my favorite spots for rooftop drinks. Reservations are required at +39 0552623500, [email protected]. Address: Lungarno della Zecca Vecchia, 38.
- Visit the exquisite truffle restaurant Osteria dei Tre Panchi on Hotel Hermitage, offering delightful cuisine with a view over the rooftops of Florence. More info available here—it’s fantastic!
- View on Art, located atop Hotel Medici in the city center, provides lovely views of the Duomo and more budget-friendly aperitivi compared to other terraces. Address: Via dei Medici, 6. Closes at 9:30 pm.
- Hotel Kraft is a lesser-known yet charming venue for dining or drinks in Florence, located on Via Solferino, 2 near the American Embassy.
- The iconic Grande Hotel Minerva features ‘360 Three Sixty’ Rooftop Bar, a well-known destination in Santa Maria Novella, open daily from 7 pm to midnight. For reservations, email [email protected].
