Five years ago, I visited Kumagaya, Japan’s hottest city, for an international rugby match. Before the game, I explored a few local attractions. As I left the stadium, a passionate Japanese friend, who specializes in niche topics, asked if I had seen the large Buddha statue in the area. As a fan of such statues, I was disappointed to learn about it only afterward and made a note to check it out in the future. That opportunity finally came a couple of months ago when I returned to Saitama Prefecture.
A train ride of just one hour north of Ikebukuro will take you to Gyoda City, known for its many kofun (ancient burial mounds). On this visit, I only had time to see a couple, with the Gyoda Hachimanyama Ancient Tomb being the standout. Please note that this tomb is open to the public only on weekends. More details here.
After visiting the tombs, I continued my journey by bus to see the Great Buddha statue that had initially piqued my interest in this area. This statue led me to discover the previously mentioned tombs and other sites while I browsed Google Maps. When I got off the bus, I found myself just a short distance from Daichoji (23-10 Gyoda, Saitama-ken) and had already caught a glimpse of the statue from the back.
The history of this Great Buddha statue dates back to 1727 when it was first cast, but its story is far from straightforward. This region of Japan has endured various fires, earthquakes, and wars over the years. During World War II in 1944, the statue was removed as a metal resource. In the years that followed, over 50 years later, the current statue was restored thanks to the dedication of the local believers.
In addition to the Great Buddha, this temple also boasts a remarkable collection of large jizo statues, which are quite impressive in their own right.
A short walk from there led to Oshi Castle (17-23 Honmaru, Gyoda, Saitama-ken). I honestly expected to find only a few remnants as I approached, but I was pleasantly surprised to see the visually striking three-story turret, which is meticulously maintained and now serves as the Gyoda City Museum.
Originally completed in 1479, Oshi Castle underwent reconstruction in the late 1980s. It has been recognized as one of Japan’s hundred fine castles for its cultural and historical significance. Perhaps most famously, it withstood a siege in 1590 against overwhelming odds, a feat immortalized in the 2012 film “Nobo no shiro,” also known as “The Floating Castle.”
Realizing that the next buses were not approaching as expected, I hastily searched for the quickest route to Kumagaya station to ensure I wouldn’t miss my football match. Fortunately, I found a couple of options, and I opted for Mochida station instead of the nearby Gyodashi station.
Kumagaya station was just a six-minute ride from Mochida, and I had a brief wait before catching a bus to Kumagaya Athletic Stadium. It is conveniently located a short walk from Kumagaya Rugby Stadium, which is known as the spiritual home of rugby in Japan. I had previously watched a friendly match between Japan and South Africa here just before the 2019 Rugby World Cup. At the station, a giant rugby ball commemorates this part of Japan’s sporting history.
This was my first visit to this stadium (the 48th I have been to!) and it is a typical municipal ground in Japan, complete with a running track encircling the pitch.
The game itself was quite the spectacle, particularly regarding goalkeeping errors. The AS Elfen goalkeeper first failed to catch a cross from a free kick, allowing the away team to score. In the second half, a stunning long-range equalizer brought excitement to the game, but it was quickly followed by another mishap as the Stella goalkeeper let a corner kick slip through her hands into the net.
There are still a few other sights I wish to explore in this area, such as Ancient Lotus Park and Water Castle Park, as well as the various ancient burial mounds that form the Sakitama Kofun Ancient Tomb Park. While they aren’t a priority right now, I do plan to return someday to visit all of these sites.
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