Discovering Traditional Taverns in Turin – In every city I visit, I usually dedicate an article to where to eat, and I’ve realized that I haven’t done so for my own city, Turin, despite knowing plenty of great spots to recommend.
Turinese Taverns and Typical Piedmontese Cuisine
The most common question I get from tourists visiting Turin is: where can we find something typically Piedmontese to eat? They seek a place that is less touristy and frequented by local residents.
I almost always recommend trying a Trattoria or Osteria, which here in Turin are also known as Piole.
In a Piola, you can enjoy a more familial atmosphere along with traditional Piedmontese dishes featuring a menu with a few items, typically recommended by the host. The cuisine is hearty and flavorful, always paired with a nice red wine, which can be Barbera, Dolcetto, or house wine served in a carafe. Alongside the bread, you can’t miss the famous Turin grissini known as ‘rubatà.’
Now that you know what piola torinesi are, all that’s left is to choose one and try some typical Piedmontese dishes.
Typical Piedmontese Dishes
Start with some antipasti, which may include: acciughe al verde, vitello tonnato, carne cruda battuta al coltello, or peperoni con bagna cauda (a sauce made from garlic and anchovies).
For primi, you’ll typically find tajarin with mushrooms (or sausage), agnolotti in broth, or the renowned ravioli del plin (a specific type of meat-filled pasta) al brasato
The secondi are generally meat-based, such as squid with polenta, sliced beef, or the traditional bollito misto. For desserts, you can enjoy Bonet (a chocolate pudding with a base of amaretti) or various dry pastries like Krumiri, baci di dama, and paste di meliga served with a dessert wine.
Here are a few local establishments that I’ve personally tried and can recommend:
Turinese Taverns
Piola Cianci Torino – This place is popular among tourists and locals alike who come here for lunch or dinner. Despite becoming quite famous (you can spot the line outside waiting for a table), it has never lost its charm or the quality of its offerings. Cianci is located in the heart of the city, just steps away from the Cathedral and Piazza Castello, in a delightful little square in Turin. The ambiance is youthful and always lively, but tables turn quickly, and the service is efficient. I recommend trying the Piedmontese antipasti and the tajerin with sausage, and save room for the Cianci cup for dessert. Excellent value for money, and no need to book – just arrive and wait for your turn.
Piola Cianci – Largo Quattro Marzo 9/b Turin
Il Fanfaron Bistrot – This bistro is located on one of the central streets near the famous shopping street via Garibaldi. It’s a place for a gastronomic journey to rediscover traditional cuisine in a family-friendly atmosphere that recalls the typical Piedmontese taverns of the past. Here you can also enjoy set menus that change monthly according to seasonal ingredients. If you reserve, you can opt for a mixed fried dish, bagna cauda, or bollito misto.
Updated December 20, 2019 – I returned here with friends and it’s still a guarantee of excellent dishes and a wide selection of wines, absolutely worth trying.
They are open every day from 12 to 15 and from 19 to 24.
Il Fanfaron Bistrot -Via Piave 5D – Turin Tel. 3393247746
Trattoria Decoratori e Imbianchini – A place reminiscent of the past, where you can still feel the essence of an old-style Piola but with a touch of class. Slightly away from the hustle of the city center, across the Po River at the foot of the Turin hills. You enter through the outdoor seating of this establishment, which serves as a cooperative for mutual aid reminiscent of bocce clubs and after-work gatherings. Inside, time seems to have stopped, and the dishes are traditional Piedmontese fare with locally sourced ingredients making a noticeable difference. Definitely worth a visit if you want to enjoy a meal with friends while savoring excellent dishes.
Open every day except Wednesday from 12 to 15 and from 18 to 24.
Trattoria Decoratori e Imbianchini – Via Lanfranchi 28 Turin – Tel. 0118190672
Still in the city center, just a stone’s throw from Piazza Vittorio, you will find:
Trattoria Alba – A historic tavern close to one of Turin’s most beautiful squares, Piazza Vittorio. The trattoria boasts over 100 years of history and has been managed by the same family for about 30 years. The cozy establishment wraps you in its warm colors and wooden decor on cold winter days. I stumbled upon it by chance and was pleasantly surprised. Lucia, the daughter of the current owners, will gladly help you choose the best dishes. I wanted to sample a typical Piedmontese menu, starting with the classic antipasto and moving on to delicious tajarin with porcini mushrooms. Their desserts are equally delightful, with the bunet and mascarpone cup garnished with chocolate shavings being a true treat. The quality-to-price ratio is excellent considering its central location—definitely recommended.
Open from 12-14:30 and 19:30-22:30 every day except Sunday and Monday nights.
Trattoria Alba – Via Eusebio Bava, 2 Turin Tel. 011 8171579
Next, let’s move to the San Salvario district, a symbol of Turin’s nightlife, but I recommend visiting it during the day as well. Artisan shops, small stores, and multicultural spaces welcome you into an alternative side of Turin. For more information, read Discovering the San Salvario Quarter in Turin.
Barbagusto – This place stays true to its roots as an osteria serving traditional Piedmontese dishes and is definitely worth the visit. With just a few tables, checkered tablecloths, and recipes that evoke the flavors of yesteryear, you can’t go wrong. Try the delicious Bra sausage served with Russian salad as an appetizer. The hospitality is warm, and the quality-to-price ratio is truly good.
Open every day from 12 to 15 and from 19 to 23.
Barbagusto – Via Belfiore 36 Turin Tel. 011 276 0233
Albergo Ristorante San Giors – Nestled in the heart of Turin, behind the famous Porta Palazzo market, this historic inn transports you back in time, starting with its vintage sign. I had wanted to try this restaurant, renowned for its traditional Piedmontese cuisine, and it turned out to be a delightful surprise.
Don’t let the unassuming entrance in a diverse and bustling neighborhood like Porta Palazzo fool you because once you step inside, you feel as if you have entered the pages of a novel from the 1920s.
The corridor leading to various dining rooms, each with a distinct style, features tables arranged to give the impression of being on an Orient Express train.
The well-cared-for and cozy decor instantly puts you at ease. The dining rooms are not too crowded, which allows for a bit of privacy. There’s also a lovely outdoor area for warm summer evenings.
I visited this venue in July and have vowed to return in the autumn for the bollito misto or Bagna Cauda; however, I can happily say it did not disappoint during my first visit.
The menu is distinctly Piedmontese but incorporates touches of innovation and originality, with portions and the quality-to-price ratio being appropriate.
The unique aspect of San Giors is that in addition to being a restaurant, it also operates as a hotel that features contemporary artwork in its rooms, hence it is described as an art hotel. It’s not uncommon for musicians and various artists to stay there.
Open from Monday to Saturday
from 19:30 to 22:30
On Saturday and Sunday
from 12:30 to 14:30
San Giors – via Borgo Dora, 3/A Turin – +39 011 521 6357
This article is continually updated, so you’ll always find new venues I have tried and can recommend.
Since I am not the only one taking on the challenge of trying various Piole in Turin, I’m happy to share a recommendation from my friend Roberto, who has listed The seven best taverns in Turin to eat well without spending more than 20 euros!
Where to Eat in Turin – Gourmet Breaks
If you’re out and about in the city and craving a sweet break, or it starts to rain and you’re looking to warm up with some good hot chocolate or tea, you absolutely must try one of these pastry shops (or both). Here, you can not only warm up with delicious hot chocolate but also enjoy some of the local delicacies like the hazelnut cake.
Torteria Berlicanbarbis has several locations in Turin, so choose the one that is most convenient for you.
Torteria Olsen is located on a street in the city center, right near via Garibaldi.
Want to take home an original souvenir after your trip to Turin? Here’s a tasty idea: Merenda Reale to enjoy comfortably at home. You can bring relatives and friends a colorful little box of the famous Pastiglie Leone, the only challenge is choosing from the countless flavors.
Want to do something truly original during your visit to Turin?
Among the must-see attractions in Turin is certainly the fascinating visit to Casa Martini in Pessione. Thanks to the convenient sightseeing service that departs from downtown Turin, you can opt for an exceptionally distinctive experience.
Read my story about Casa Martini, an excellence of Made in Italy; inside the article, you’ll also find 10% off for the activities offered.
I look forward to your recommendations for places and restaurants to enjoy traditional cuisine in Turin.
