“…every time a problem ends,
another one begins…”
Recently, almost every day, we’ve been asked: “Are you still heading north this year? When are you planning to leave?” Trust us; we’ve been grappling with these questions ourselves. Several factors have created uncertainty around the next steps of our journey on the Trans Canada Trail.
“The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry.”
— Robert Burns
Initially, we aimed to depart for Edmonton between early April and mid-May, setting off north from Fort Saskatchewan, AB, to Tuktoyaktuk, NT. According to our estimates, mid-May was the latest we could leave to have a chance of reaching Tuktoyaktuk by late September, before the onset of winter and its extreme temperatures. With it now being the second week of June, that deadline has passed, which means our anticipated hike north this season has been postponed.
For our Canadian readers, the main reason for the delay in our Arctic journey is likely clear: Alberta is currently grappling with an “unprecedented” wildfire season. In early May, news outlets reported over 170 active forest fires across the province, with 86 of them out of control. Within days, more than 29,000 people were evacuated from their homes, leading local, band councils, and provincial authorities to declare states of emergency in over 30 communities. By May 9th, there were 416 wildfires, impacting an area of 410,441 hectares—nearly double the five-year average for this time of year. Although wildfires have influenced our cross-Canada hike for the past two years, this year’s situation is notably different.
As we travel north, the Trans Canada Trail passes through very few towns, limiting our opportunities for resupply and rest, even in the best conditions. Unfortunately, many of the communities we planned to visit, including areas around Edmonton, Fort Saskatchewan, Athabasca, Smith, Slave Lake, and Peace River, have been impacted by the fires in May. Currently, some of these fires are still active; for instance, there are significant fires between Smith and Slave Lake, and elsewhere, an out-of-control wildfire exists between Grouard Mission and Peace River. In British Columbia, the situation is similarly concerning, with multiple fires burning between Fort St. John and Fort Nelson, including the Donnie Creek wildfire, which is the second-largest fire in BC’s history and remains uncontrolled. Though wildfire conditions are fluid and ever-changing, the repercussions of these disasters linger long after the flames die down, which complicates our plans.
CBC Image, Alberta Wildfires
The second challenge we’re facing is that we are still at the beginning of the fire season. Forest fires play a role in the natural cycle of regeneration in the Boreal forest ecosystem. However, as temperatures rise and human activities disrupt the balance of the landscape, we’re seeing larger, more frequent fires and an earlier start to the fire season each year. Many regions are now imposing restrictions on backcountry travel and camping to mitigate the risk of new fires igniting and reduce the necessity for costly and dangerous rescues. Although we are cautious and only light campfires in designated areas, we cannot expect communities that are under threat to trust us readily. Additionally, in the absence of public transit, if an evacuation were necessary, we would be reliant on others for assistance at a moment when they too would likely need help.
Finally, as mentioned earlier, it is now too late in the season for us to realistically reach the Arctic Ocean on foot before winter arrives. The options we see before us now are to trek as far north as Dawson Creek, BC, before taking a bus back south, or to continue onward to Whitehorse, YT, and fly home, planning to resume our journey next summer. We’re currently exploring ways to fund either option while weighing the wisdom of hiking north during a year when the risk of encountering heavy smoke or active fires is twice what is considered normal—when many landscapes and communities may still be suffering the aftermath of natural disasters.
Over the past four years, many individuals have supported our journey through generous donations, amounting to an equivalent of $3,500 per year in expedition funds. We are truly humbled and grateful for this support, which has allowed us to come this far. However, we are now two years beyond our original budget timelines. To keep moving forward during the pandemic, we incurred many unexpected costs, and in the last two years, the prices of airfare, bus tickets, train travel, and motel accommodations in Canada have skyrocketed. It has now become cheaper to fly to Europe than to travel by bus from Toronto to northern Ontario.
Will we head north this year? Will we have to delay our Arctic journey until next spring? What adventures can we pursue in the meantime? While our plans for the Trans Canada Trail remain uncertain, we firmly believe that the dream of walking to the Arctic Ocean is still very much alive. As soon as we determine the best path forward, we will update all of you.
We hope to see you on the trail, hopefully soon!
“If something ignites your soul with purpose and desire,
it’s your duty to be reduced to ashes by it.
Any other form of existence will merely become another dull book in the library of life.”
— Charles Bukowski
