“Apples, so many apples,” I quickly typed into my phone in response to my friend’s inquiry about my experience in Val Di Non, a region in Trentino, Italy. After adjusting my hard hat, I added, “Oh, and castles. There are plenty of those, too.”
The message remained unsent as I found myself deep within a cave without any cell service. But these weren’t just any caves; this artificial network of tunnels was carved deep into the rugged Dolomites. Their purpose? One of the most ingeniously designed storage facilities I had ever seen, filled with… apples. Thousands and thousands of sweet Melinda apples.
Amazingly, some of these apples can be stored here for months without sacrificing freshness. You’d never guess it by the time you see them at your local grocery store, thanks to a clever refrigeration system that keeps these crunchy fruits nearly as fresh as the day they were picked.
As I learned on my journey to this unique storage facility, apples can be quite stunning. After leaving the lake-filled region of Valsugana, I was captivated by the terraced rows of vineyards that stretched into the distance.
“Those aren’t vineyards,” my guide Marco chuckled. “They’re apples.”
I assure you, this isn’t going to be an essay solely about apples. However, after touring the astonishing, former-mine storage caves of the Melinda Apple Factory, I now feel qualified to write one. My goal here is to set the scene. Val di Non is essentially a vast orchard—a lush landscape of low-slung mountains, numerous castles, and, of course, an abundance of apples.
It’s anyone’s guess why it’s not called the Valley of Apples. Pressed against the windows with my fellow travelers, I felt utterly astonished as if I were seeing fruit for the first time. “I can’t believe they’re apples!” Vicky exclaimed from behind me. “Who knew apples could be so beautiful?” someone chimed in from the front. I added my equally thoughtful observation, “I want an apple.” Little did I know, in just a few days, I would be surrounded by more apples than anyone could wish for.
From Apples to Aristocrats
The Trentino region has been one of my favorite hidden gems in Italy for years. On my first visit, I fell head over heels for the charming regional capital, Trento. Yet to be overrun by tourists, the northern Italian city’s streets and squares, adorned with frescoes and cultural events, were enchanting. After exploring the fjord-like Lake Levico in Valsugana, where I learned to stand-up paddle over bottles of Trento Doc—the region’s renowned sparkling wine—my affection deepened.
And now, I was back for round three, this time to explore Val di Non. It seems these remarkable valleys remain relatively overlooked, as most visitors flock straight to the Dolomites, either to ski or to marvel at Mother Nature’s masterpieces. While these majestic peaks certainly deserve attention, the charming small towns, medieval castles, and the orchards filled with apples also merit a longer visit.
One of the first characters we encountered in Val di Non was a friendly count who personally guided us through one of the many castles in the area. Unlike other tour guides, this was actually his castle. Over the course of a couple of hours, we followed the nobleman as he recounted fascinating tales, prodded ancient artifacts with his cane, and occasionally took a puff from his cigarette while showing us around his stately home.
When you’re the lord of the castle, you make your own rules. But I’m not sure lighting up a cigarette in a historic dining room would be appreciated, especially when there’s a baby grand piano that was once played by the legendary Mozart in the corner.
The gardens were exquisite, the interiors lavish, and the surrounding landscape was dotted with… can you guess? But Val di Non isn’t solely about apple juice and ancient castles; it also boasts stunning alpine vistas, as I discovered upon catching my first glimpse of Lago Di Tovel.
From Aristocrats to Alpine Lakes
I may not have visited Canada yet, but British Columbia has been on my radar for its stunning alpine lakes, and I believe I’ve found its European counterpart here.
We ventured about an hour off the beaten path, climbing higher through dense pine forests until we reached an unremarkable visitor center. Moments later, Vicky and I were shaken from our apple-juice-induced slumber, oohing and aaahing over a lake so stunning you might think it was photoshopped if you saw it online.
“Go stand in it. I’ll take a photo,” I called out as Vicky replied that her feet were slowly turning to ice. Only the bravest would swim in Lake Tovel, but anyone can admire its breathtaking views.
We wandered around the lake, wide-eyed and exhausted, stopping frequently to capture countless photos. We even stumbled upon a cozy cabin-like hotel that we regretted not booking. However, with prior reservations, we trudged away from Lago Di Tovel, hearts heavy.
Our sadness didn’t last long, as the blackout curtains at Hotel Viridis lifted to reveal an awe-inspiring panorama bathed in the last rays of sunlight. Staring out over Lake Santa Giustina took my breath away as mountains met apple orchards, the sun reflecting off the vibrant blue waters.
This view was nothing short of amazing, made even better with a Hugo—a local cocktail made of elderflower and Trento Doc. Soaking in the magnificent sights from the terrace, I reflected that I had never stayed in a bad hotel in Trentino. The region prides itself on providing even the most modest two- or three-star accommodations with stunning views, modern amenities, and exquisite cuisine. The panorama remained just as splendid the following morning as I savored a cornetto (Italian cream-filled croissant) alongside my cafe doppio.
Speaking of food—an important subject for Italians—I must rave about the meals I enjoyed in Val Di Non, surprisingly all served without an apple in sight.
Flavors Inspired by Austria Rather Than Apples
At Ristorante La Finlanda, we indulged in a lavish four-course menu in their charming and beautifully decorated dining room after a delightful gelato on the terrace. We savored perfectly cooked steak, creamy mushroom risotto, and a delicious tiramisu, all offering a unique Trentino twist on classic Italian dishes.
On the next evening, at Ristorante La Margherita, we enjoyed drinks on a patio overlooking Austrian-style rooftops and spires. Inside, the wooden dining room felt more like it belonged in Innsbruck than Italy. There, a three-course meal leaned heavily on Austrian flavors. This is quite common here, as the borders have changed over the years. In the nearby city of Bolzano, for instance, German is the primary language, and the valley even has its own endangered dialect, Nones.
Over my three visits to Trentino, my taste buds have always been delighted. This region does more than just fill your stomach; it nurtures your soul, too.
This is a place to recharge, reconnect with nature, and blend those reflective moments with cultural experiences and culinary delights.
A perfect example of this came the following morning as we arrived in the village of Sanzeno.
From a small parking area, we embarked on a short hike that led us deeper into soaring forests. As we climbed higher along a path carved into the cliff face, we finally caught our first glimpse of the St. Romedius Shrine.
This complex of chapels has been expanded over the years, and we made our way down to visit them all. Each chapel is interconnected within an outer wall. Walking around this unique and remote religious site was a poignant experience, even for someone like me who identifies as an atheist. Or perhaps it was just the absence of apples?
As we drove down from the mountains, we passed by the actual apple processing facility of the Melinda Apple Factory. By this point, we all knew there were likely no apples to be seen since, during this time of year, they were all stashed away in those airtight caves deep in the mountains. Still, we paused to watch an impressive and engaging video about the apple caves while waiting to visit our final landmark, the nearby Castle Thun.
Honestly, I had slightly overindulged in grand architecture during this trip—it’s a common occurrence in Europe, especially in Val di Non, which features one of Italy’s highest concentrations of castles. Thankfully, fortune favored us as the English-speaking guide was busy, allowing us to skip the tour and explore the rooms filled with armor and art at our own pace. I soon retreated to the windswept balcony to soak in the sweeping vistas of my new obsession: apple orchards. Even as a non-believer, the Old Testament’s tale of temptation started to make more sense.
Is Italy’s Eden Filled with Apples and Manmade Lakes?
Eager to reconnect with nature, we concluded our visit to Val di Non at the twin lakes of Coredo and Tavon. These two manmade lakes are part of the region’s hydraulic systems—a reminder that Trentino prioritizes sustainability in more ways than one.
Against the backdrop of the snow-capped Dolomites and the shimmering turquoise waters dotted with kayakers, these artificial lakes could easily rival the likes of Lake Como.
After feasting on approximately 27 courses over two days, it was time for my final bites of Trentino delights, which were sourced from Strada della Mela e dei Sapori delle Valli di Non e Sole.
We were offered picnic baskets filled with local treasures, demonstrating a strong commitment to minimal waste. As you can imagine, an Italian picnic wouldn’t be complete without cheeses, cured meats, honey, freshly baked bread, and local wines or craft beers. Yet, being in Val di Non meant there was, of course, an apple, apple juice, and apple crisps nestled at the bottom of the basket. I glanced at Lisa, who had confided in me the day before about her apple allergy—not the best condition to have in this part of the world. I swapped my beer for her apple treats.
No one truly realized just how much apples would define our visit to what we initially assumed to be a land of rugged, world-famous peaks. Val di Non’s apples had swept us off our feet. From this humble fruit, I would no longer think of Steve Jobs, but rather of Trentino’s enchanting emerald valley, a landscape filled with castles, lakes, vineyards, and seemingly endless orchards.
Lisa tossed me her apple, and it echoed a perfect crunch as I bit into it. Here, in this place where indulging in the fruit is not forbidden but encouraged, I had found my own Eden.
Getting to Trentino and Val Di Non: The nearest airport to Trentino is Verona Airport, where direct buses travel to Trento, and trains run from the city center. Once in Trento, local transport can connect you to Val Di Non, though a car rental may make it easier to explore more of Europe’s hidden gems scattered across Trentino’s sixteen districts.
